Where the Wild Things Are

Introduction: Where the Wild Things Are

About: videographer, motion graphic-er, drawer, painter, creator
I love the book and the movie! I wanted to do something that honored them both!
Don't forget to leave comments, vote, follow, what-have-you!

Common materials needed:
Duck Tape
Hot Glue (loads)
Faux fur fabric
Old/Cheap Shoes
Old/Cheap Gloves
Aluminum Foil
Pipe Insulation
Solid Coated Wire (12 gauge)
Lycra Pants & Shirt
Nuts and Bolts

Not so common materials:
A Little Tikes toy chest shaped like a ball
Football Shoulder Pads
Plastic Globes

Step 1: Fatten Up

I needed to be bigger, fatter and just more huggable.
So I made a fat shirt and fat pants.
Basically foam hot-glued over Lycra in an "armor" type fashion. All you need is a dummy to fill both the pants and shirt so the Lycra is stretched when you hot glue it. If not, the foam will a rip off when you put the suit on.
I used a duck tape dummy and thanks to ModMischief I knew how to make one!

Step 2: Paws

Foam hot glued to an old pair of gloves and shoes.
Pretty much the same as the last step. Although being a bit ambidextrous is good when doing your dominant hand.

Step 3: Sculpey

The nose, horns, claws and teeth were all done with sculpey and then painted after cooking them.
For the horns and nose though, I had to make a base sculpture out of aluminum foil to lessen cook time, keep the weight down, and keep from wasting a lot of money on a lot of sculpey. (you can see the aluminum under the sculpey)

Step 4: Head

I used an old little tikes basketball-shaped toy chest for the head. As large as it is and as heavy as all the components were, I needed something strong, like the hard plastic of the toy chest. Though I'm sure fiberglass or paper mache with a wire frame would work as well, it would just take more time to make that.

I cut holes for the mouth and eyes, screwed down the lid and cut a hole in the bottom for my head to go through.
Then added screen mesh to cover the mouth and mask off myself inside. (in the pic you can see that some of the spray foam dripped down onto the screen from around the eyes. Make sure spray foam dries first!)

I used harder foam for the lips that I hard from an old Pelican camera hard case, they were added after all the cutting and also the nose and horns, mounted with screws from the inside out into the bottom of the horns, as well as epoxy on the outside.

I used Plasti-Dip to coat the inside of the mouth to make it more mouth-like, and to help secure teeth later. I took three coats, about a whole can, to get it smooth. The Plasti-Dip soakes into the foam a lot, but I wanted that for later when I cut a slit for the teeth, makes it look more like actual gums around teeth. (you can see the shininess where the Plisti-Dip is on the lips)

Step 5: Eyes

I bought two clear, 6 inch, plastic globes/replacement light covers from this company:
and painted the insides to look like pupils.

To paint the insides, I took a round cup, traced the circle onto the globe with a dry erase marker and then used acrylic paints for the pupil and whites. It's different because you have to work/layer colors backwards. It takes a while to dry too.

Then they were mounted with a few pieces of duck tape to position them, then spray foamed in to secure them completely. You can see the yellow foam coming through the cracks from the inside. Again, make sure the spray foam dries before tilting it right-side-up or the foam will drip down and you have to clean it off your screen mesh where the mouth is, you kinda need to see out of there.

Step 6: Head Mount

Old shoulder pads. I drilled out the rivets that hold the outer pieces of the pads on and replaced those with two 1/4" x 2 1/2" philips-head bolts. Some washers were use to make sure it didn't rip through the plastic on the underside. The padding of the shoulder pads flaps back over these so you don't feel them at all.

I cut the 1/2" thick wooden disc mainly to hold the head, but it also needed velcro around it to attach the fur suit later on.

Sandwiched between the bottom of the wooden disc an the plastic base of the toy chest I had two metal plates with holes drilled in them for extra stability. An extra nut for spacing and a couple lock washers help as well. You can see this in the new photos.

Step 7: Claws

After sewing the fur covers for the feet and hands and pulling them over the shoes and gloves, I trimmed back the fur around each toe's/finger's nail area and then made a small slit to shove in the claw. I then hot glued the top inside fur down and also the bottom of the claw to the trimmed fur.

I'm not gonna go into the sewing process, if you look at normal winter gloves, you can just mimic the pattern. That's what I did and I am no master at sewing!

Step 8: Tail

I twisted several lengths of 12 gauge solid coated copper wire together and then added the pipe insulation and sheathed all of that in the fur tail. I then cut a hole in the fur pants for it to slip through. I used a leather belt to go through the wire loop on the end and just cinched it tight around my body.

Step 9:

The icing on the cake was putting the fur on the head. All different strips of fur were hot glued in place!
I started with the upper and lower eyelid pieces and then just worked my way out from there.

Step 10:

My sister wearing the head.
My wife was Max. She made her costume too! I have to give her a shout-out for putting up with all this and for sewing my fur suit while I worked on the other elements! :)
All the parts piled together. The suit was not terribly difficult, mostly sewing from measurements off my fat suit, trying it on, re-sewing, try it on again...I got hot.
The whole suit is sweltering if you plan on being inside a bar or anything like that! Stay hydrated!
It was a fun night out on Halloween nonetheless.

Happy building!

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    10 years ago on Introduction

    I wish more people saw this one. There are other Wild Things costumes on this site, but the others have only a fraction of the attention to detail that yours does.