Wooden Canopy Bed Frame With Storage Compartment




Introduction: Wooden Canopy Bed Frame With Storage Compartment

The measurements of wood are intended for a Queen size mattress with dimensions 6 1/2 x 60 x 80".

The same style and instructions apply for different-sized mattresses, but you'll have to find out your own wood measurements

The overall height to the top of the canopy is 8'

The height of the bed frame to where the underside of the mattress meets it is 12" off the ground


  • Drill driver with phillips bit
  • Palm sander or even sandpaper if if you don't have a palm sander
  • 220 grit, 160 grit, and 100 grit sandpaper
  • Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
  • Two boxes (50 pack) of 2.5" - 3.5" deck or construction screws
  • ~30 1" wood screws
  • 8 ~1 x 3" flat brackets
  • 6 ~2 x 2 L brackets
  • Measuring tape
  • 1 Quart wood stain of your choice (I used Summer Oak)
  • 1 Quart clear matte polyurethane
  • About 4 foam brushes. Its good to have extra just in case
  • 1 10 x 10' tarp or plastic sheet that can get stain on it
  • Nitrile gloves and face mask

8 ~1 x 3" flat brackets8 ~2 x 2" L brackets

4 -- 4 x 4 x 84" (columns)

2 -- 2 x 4 x 92" (canopy cross bars l&r)

2 -- 2 x 4 x 60" (canopy cross bars t&b)

2 -- 2 x 12 x 92" (bed sides l&r)

2 -- 2 x 12 x 60" (bed sides t&b)

1 -- 2 x 10 x 81.5" (spine)

2 -- 2 x 2 x 92" (slat support)

1 -- 2 x 12 x 60" (chest door)

10 -- 1 x 4 x 60" (slats)

Step 1: Sand All the Wood

The first step, once you have all your materials is to sand all the wood to your preference.

You want to start out with the lowest grit sandpaper, making sure to sand our rough spots like knots.

The wood might also have marks or ink on it from the manufacturer that would be nice to sand out of the wood too.

Gradually work your way up to the highest grit sandpaper to give it a smooth finish with minimal pores so your stain will adhere to the wood with the best possible quality.

Step 2: Stain All Your Wood

Get your gloves on if you haven't already.

Lay down your tarp if you need to protect your floors and prepare your wood stain.

Go ahead and use the brushes to stain all the parts that will be showing and all parts of the canopy.

You can stain the sides that will be under the mattress too if you want but no one will ever see it.

Wait until the stain is dry, then apply the polyurethane as a way to preserve the color.

Wait for it to dry before proceeding.

Step 3: Kreg Jig the Sides to the Columns

Once everything is dry, get the Kreg jig and your drill driver.

You'll need extra hands on deck or at least some wood or blocks for support holding up the opposite ends of the planks.

Drilling the starter holes is crucial and be easy to mess up. One wrong hole placement can be a difference between a beautiful masterpiece and piece of trash.

This was my first time using Kreg jig. It can look confusing, but just remember how you want the outcome to look before you commit to drilling. The screw will go through the long side of the plank and come out through the thin 2" part of it and then into the 4x4" column.

  1. Line up a side piece it's corresponding 4x4 column. Drill 3 holes evenly spaced from the side plank in to the column. Only drill into the column about an inch, but all the way through the plank.
  2. Go ahead and drill the screw into the pre-drilled hole to be able to get this standing up already.
  3. Notice the way I have the top side standing up in the picture, while the column lies down so I can line it up and drill it with the best angle and least amount of stress.

Do this for all the sides, left, right, top, and bottom until you have a bottom layer bed frame with canopy columns sticking up. If you get this far, you've done the hardest parts, and your bed already looks almost done!

Step 4: Add the Slat Support

The slats will be resting inside to be discrete so we'll use the 1x2" s to be the side supports for the slats.

The slats are really 3/4" thick, so measure them to fit 3/4" down from the inside of the side planks.

  1. Line up the support to where you'll be anchoring them and pre-drill a hole first.
  2. Using a long enough screw, screw it all the way and make sure it doesn't come out the other end.
  3. Do this only for the left, right, and top of the bed frame.
  4. Cut two small pieces of the support to use for where the storage chest door will be resting on.

There won't be a lot of weight stressing out the foot of the bed frame which is why I used small pieces in the last step. It saves material and some space in your storage compartment.

The next step is crucial.

Step 5: Add the Spine Support

You can use the Kreg jig here again. It will add integrity, but is not necessary. Kreg jig with an alternating hole pattern from on side of the spine to the opposite side so that you won't collide screws.

Use two L brackets to secure the spine to the center of the top/head of the bed frame. Mind the other screws.

Step 6: Add L-brackets for Integrity

It's a good idea to add more support around the corners of the frame.

Mind the other screws and use the 1" screws this time. We don't want the screw to punch through to the outside.

Step 7: Add Canopy Crossbars

This step will need an extra pair of hands too.

Line up the corresponding 2 x 4" with the side of a 4 x 4" column and get ready to drill, no pre-drilling necessary.

Using the flat brackets and 1" screws, secure one end of a 2 x 4 to the column.

Do this all the way around your canopy for all the crossbars.

Notice in the picture, I lined up the 2 x 4 face with the long face of the column.

Another way of describing it is the 2 x 4 is stacked to the side of the column, NOT stacked on top of the column.

It might seem more logical for you to stack it on top, that is ok but make sure your measurements line up to make this possible. If you went by my measurements, you will Have to stack it side by side. I like it much better to the side, and it ends up looking cleaner while still being really strong.

Step 8: Add the Slats and Chest Door

Loosely place the slats across the bed.

Space them out evenly for best mattress breathe-ability.

Place the last 2 x 12 at the foot of the bed to seal the deal.

I haven't install a hinge nor a handle on the chest door yet, I just pry it open for now.

That's it!! Plop your mattress on to this bad girl and you have yourself the most peaceful and beautiful night of sleep that you've had in forever.

Please comment if you'd like to or have questions! Sleep well y'all!

Woodworking Contest

Participated in the
Woodworking Contest

Be the First to Share


    • Anything Goes Contest

      Anything Goes Contest



    2 years ago

    This is beautiful! Is this bed easy to take apart and move? I am looking to make a beautiful storage platform bed with a canopy but we live in an apartment with carpet and would have to make it at my partner's family's house so we'd need to be able to break it down and move it easily. Also for the future whenever we move, we want it to be easy enough to take apart.



    Reply 2 years ago

    Thanks! Yes, its pretty easy to take a part and reassemble. We plan on doing that when we move, although we havent had to take it a part yet, but we built it in mind to. We live in a carpeted apartment on the third floor too. We started building it in our living room, and moved the project to our bedroom before it got too big to fit through the door. But overall, not too many screws or big pieces of wood.