I needed a new putter as I didn't love the one I currently use. I decided I'd have a go at making one. I knew I needed it to weigh quite a bit, that is, roughly 350g, which would be significantly heavier than most hardwoods. I had tried with maple but would have had to make the putter head much larger than I liked. I decided to find a heavy. Thankfully, my local hardwood supplier stocks blocks of lignum vitae, one of the heaviest woods in the world. The weight of the putter head will be largely dependent on how many/how heavy the weights are that you put in the putter head. I used a dense wood to be able to make it as small as possible. The final result is a putter head that weighs 351g.

You won't need many tools to make your own:

-Hand Saw

-Rasp

-File

-Sand Paper (up to desired grit)

-Drill (or hand drill/bit brace)

-Planer (I used a #5 Jack Plane) (Not necessary if not milling your own lumber)

-Vise/other work holding methods

-Square (A try square will do)

-Tape Measure or ruler

Supplies

-Heavy Hardwood - I used Lignum Vitae (78.5 lbs/ft3)

1/2" Dowel (I used walnut because I had some scrap)

-Shaft (could be a wooden dowel, I bought a metal putter shaft)

-Fishing Sinkers (Lead)

-Brass (1/8" Sheet)

-Wood Glue

-Epoxy

Step 1: Break Down Your Stock and Marking

I wanted to make a putter similar to a blade style, so it had to be small and relatively narrow. I began by cutting the length I needed (Heel to toe) and then ripping down close to the thickness I needed, both cuts done with a hand saw. I then planed my stock square and to final dimensions of 1 1/8" (putter face) x 1 5/8" (width) x 4 1/4" (length heel to toe). Once I had my wood to size, I began marking out where the ends would be rounded, where the shaft would sit, and the center line (sight line) of the putter would be. The center line would sit perpendicular to your putter face and half way along the length of the putter (2 1/8" from either end). I then decided on where the shaft would be placed, I placed mine near the face, 5/15" from the face and 1" from the heel of the putter. I the decided on the angle at which the shaft would sit in the head. After referencing my existing putter, I settled on a lie of 17°, and marked this 17° lie on the face and the back of the putter. Lastly, I marked out the round over on the heel and toe of the putter. I marked 9/16" from each end of the putter which would give me a perfect half-circle on each end.

Step 2: Shaping and Drilling

Once the putter head was marked out it was time to shape the putter and drill the hole for the shaft. I used a straight shaft, that is, there is no bend in the end that meets the putter head. I first drilled the hole for the shaft using a 3/8" drill bit (this may vary depending on what shaft you use, measure the diameter of the end of your shaft). To get the lie angle I wanted, I marked a 17° angle on a scrap piece of pine to create a drill guide for the bit. If you have a drill press this can be done by tilting the table or using a block cut to the complimentary angle (73°). I also roughly added a 3° angle towards the face in order to get a little bit of loft on the putter. I then clamped this guide square onto my putter head at the pr-marked location for the shaft and drilled a hole approximately 3/4 of the way through the head. I test fitted the shaft to ensure it fit snug. After drilling the hole for the shaft, the ends of the putter needed to be shaped. Using a saw rasp (regular rasp will do) I slowly started removing stock between the center of the ends of the putter and my 9/16" marks from the heel and toe. I tried to round it over as uniformly as possible from one side to the other. Once both ends are rounded over, it is time to add weight to the putter head.

Step 3: Drilling and Adding Weight

Once the putter was shaped I began deciding where the fishing sinkers would sit. A majority of the weight will be placed in the putter face to ensure they will be covered by the brass face that will be glued on later. I used two 1oz (28.34g) weights that would be placed on the face at both the heel and toe of the putter. Two additional 3/4oz (21.26g) weights are placed near the center of the face. I determined the diameter of each weight by matching it to the appropriate drill bit and then, using a scrap piece of wood, ensured that the weights would fit in the hole. The 1 oz and 3/4 oz both needed a 9/16" drill bit. For the two 1 oz weights, a hole is drilled on either end of the putter face, 1/2" from the end and in the center of the face (9/16"). I marked each drill bit using painters tape to drill to the depth of the length of the weight (so that is sits level with the face). The two 3/4 oz weights would be placed near the center of the face near the top of the putter head. Using the same 9/16" bit, a hole is drilled in the face 5/16" from the center of the face and 3/8" from the top of the putter face. The same marking with the painters tape is used with the 3/4 oz weights. Lastly, on the bottom of the putter, four 1/2 oz weights will be added. These were placed on the bottom of the putter, 3/8" in from the back of the putter and spaced evenly along the length of the putter head. These weights required a 1/2" bit. Once all the holes are drilled, test to make sure the weights will fit in the holes before gluing them in.

Step 4: Gluing Weights

Before the weights are glued in, the brass sheet needs to be cut to size. Place the face of the putter head on the brass sheet and draw a line around the perimeter of the putter, marking the face on the brass. Then, cut the brass to size. It is not important to cut right on the line, the brass will be filed down to match the putter face exactly. I used a hack saw to cut the brass into a rectangle that covered the entire face of the putter. Once cut down, mix up some quick epoxy (I used gorilla epoxy) and put some in the holes of the putter face and on the weights. Insert the weights into their appropriate holes and then cover one face of the brass sheet in epoxy. once the weights are in, clamp the brass sheet to the face of the putter, ensuring that the brass is covering every surface of the face. Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours (or per your epoxy instructions). Once set, the weights in the bottom of the putter can be glued in using epoxy. Allow the epoxy to cure again. Once cured, the weights in the face will be covered by the brass, but the weights in the bottom will be exposed. Using 1/2" wooden dowels (I used walnut), cut a few plug for these holes. Because the weights sit nearly flush with the surface, the dowels may need to be hollowed out on one end to sit around the weights in order to ensure effective gluing. I used a 3/8" bit in the center of the end of the dowel to create a slight concave end to accept the weights. Apply some wood glue to the hole and dowel and place the plugs in the holes. Once the glue had dried (as per your glue's instructions) the dowels can be cut flush with a hand saw.

Step 5: Shaping, Sanding, and Sight Line

At this step, you should have an oversized brass face plate and all weights should be glued in and covered. In order to shape the bras face, use a file to remove excess brass around the putter face. This will take some time. Go all the way around the face until the brass is flush with the putter head. Once it is shaped appropriately, sand the brass face to the highest grit you have available (I sanded to 3000, however, 400 grit will still give you a nice finish). You should now have something that looks lime a putter.

The sight line will be a small brass inlay on the top of the putter head. To add the sight line, cut a small piece of brass of the remaining sheet. The length of the piece should be slightly longer than the distance between the face and the back of the putter, the width will be the width of the sheet (1/8") and the thickness should be at least 1/8". Then, using the marked center line, draw a parallel line 1/16" from the center line on either side, this will provide you with a 1/8" thick sight line. Then, using a knife and a square, scribe the two lines a few times. Once both lines have been marked, used a chisel (bevel up) to remove some of the wood between these two lines. The knife marks should prevent tear out on either side, cut deeper with the knife if necessary. Test the piece of brass as you remove the wood, the brass should sit within the wood but still be sticking out, it does not need to be deep. Once the inlay is cut, apply epoxy and clamp the brass in, ensuring it is snug against the brass face, this will ensure a clean joint between the face and sight line. After letting the epoxy cure, the brass inlay can be filed down flush with the top of the putter.

Step 6: Finishing and Gluing Shaft

Finishing consists of sanding, simply work your way up to your desired grit, again, I sanded to 3000 because I had it, up to 400 or even 220 is fine. Once all surfaces are smooth, mix some epoxy and scoop some into the hole for the shaft and apply some to the shaft itself. Clamp the putter head so that it is sitting upright and insert the shaft. Remove any squeeze out with a wet rag. Let the epoxy cure for 24 hours. Once set, a finish can be applied to the putter. I used Rubio Monocoat Pure but any finish will do depending on the desired look of the putter, use something that will provide some protection such as boiled linseed oil or a varnish.

Once the finish has set, the putter is nearly complete. Add a putter grip if you wish or make your own, I made one from leather however a grip can be purchased at a golf store for quite cheap (I bought one for $6 CAD). The leather golf grip was made using a 1/8" thick piece of leather, cut to my desired length an width equal to the circumference of the handle of the putter shaft, then hand stitched. Perhaps I will make a leather head cover for the putter as well.

Enjoy making this putter, it is by no means a putter that is build for performance but it will get the job done. My game is nowhere near good enough to notice the difference between this and my old putter.

Have a good round!