Introduction: Wooden SUP Board (environmentally Friendly)

This was my spring environmentally friendly hollow wooden SUP board (12'6 x 27")...

A learning-by-doing-project that includes plenty of stuff I've never done before!

Step 1: Notes

I started to measure a Naish Javelin 12'6 and did some good looking notes to get some idea of the project.

Step 2: Design and a Surface Model

Then I did a design I liked and a surface model in 3D.

Step 3: The CNC Router and the Jig Saw

When the 3D model was done I did all the necessary parts in my DIY CNC router and with my jig saw. The stringer consists of two parts joined together as a puzzle.

Step 4: Stitch and Glue

All parts were stitched together by steel wire and than glued with bio epoxy.

Step 5: Handle

The board also needs a handle so you can carry it!

Step 6: Stitch and Glue...again...

I also stitched and glued the hull and the deck to the structure.

Step 7: Laminating

I used environmentally friendly Biotex Flax fiber and bio epoxy when I laminated board.

Step 8: Finbox

Finally the finbox was mounted.

And last but not least...the SUP board also needs something to attach a leash and an air vent so it won't pop when the sun shines on it (because it's hollow).

I bought D-ring camera screws and brass threaded inserts on ebay and used them for both leash attachment and air vent.

Step 9: DONE

It's DONE and the board works great in both flat water and rough water! =)

Things to think of before starting a project like this:

  • Choose your wood carefully...I didn´t. My board became a real heavyweight. Choose lightweight plywood like paulownia or similar.
  • Also have a lot of epoxy at home...there will be some panic situations if you don´ me! =)

...otherwise it's just to start building!!

Step 10: Uploaded Files!

Finally I uploaded some files!!

2 3D models (SUP_Fishbone & SUP_Surface_Model) and some JPGs to print on paper if you want to do it with your jig saw! =)

Regarding the JPGs:
If you want the same size as I have you have to scale the stringer to 12'6" and the widest section (section 5) to 27" (use same scale-% to all other sections)....Or scale to fit your wanted size!

Remember that the CAD model is just an "underlay" and not 100 % accurate in a wooden true life...I do CAD better than handcraft...

You probably have to modify it so it fits your board as you build it as I had to do. I used alot of violence to get the hull right in the nose and stuff got broken but with some epoxy and sawdust all went good!

I didn't cut out the holes in the stringer as in the CAD model...I just used my hole saw. Remember to add material for the "puzzel" connection in the stringer ( I also added stuff to strengthen the place where you stand (

For more info how to build and building techniques for this kind of SUP, google kaholo stand-up paddleboard and search on youtube.

If you have questions...just ask!

Good Luck! //Martin

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