Zart Mies Method

The Zart Mies method allows a climber to safely rappel down a mountain side after they have reached the top. It utilizes rappelling down with both ends of the rope which makes cleaning up your gear easier and faster. These instructions should be attempted once one has reached the top of their climb and are safely able to proceed.

Step 1: Materials Needed

Step 2:

Attach the anchor to chains.

Step 3:

Tell belayer to give slack to climbing rope (to test anchor).

Step 4:

Let full body weight hang from anchor. The rope should be loose as shown.

Step 5:

After assuring that the anchor is supporting your whole weight, tell the belayer to take you off belay.

Step 6:

Pull up 4 arm-lengths of rope and let it hang between your legs while still holding on to that point in the rope (see first picture). Then, at that point, create a loop in the rope by tying a simple knot. You will use this loop to secure it to your harness by hooking one side of a quickdraw to the loop and the other end to the gear loop.

Step 7:

Ensure that the rope doesn't drop on accident after the rope is detached from the harness.

Step 8:

Undo the figure-eight knot attached to your harness.

Step 9:

Clean quick draws from chains and secure to a gear loop on the harness.

Step 10:

String the end of the rope through the last (bottom) link of both chains and create a loop by tying a simple knot in end of rope so that the rope does not accidentally fall.

Step 11:

Undo the knot from step 4.

Step 12:

Pull rope through chains until the knot at the end of the rope reaches the ground

Step 13:

Attach belay device to the front loop of harness. Make sure the brake side of the device is facing down.

Step 14:

Take both pieces of rope that are hanging down and thread it through belay device as shown in picture.

a. Make sure the portion of ropes hanging down to the ground are in line with the break side of belay device

Step 15:

Cinch yourself up closer to chains by pulling ropes down through belay device such that there is no tension on anchor.

a.From this step on make sure to always have a hand on the rope below the belay device to ensure that rope does not slip through belay device (see picture)

b.This step is to make sure the double rope rappel is safe and secure before detaching the anchor system

Step 16:

Clip both loops made in steps 4 and 6 to the carabiner. Tighten carabiner in preparation for your rappel down.

Step 17:

Detach anchor from the chain and secure to a gear loop on the harness.

Step 18:

You are now ready to carefully descend the wall.

Step 19:

(FYI STEP) Now you are ready to descend and clean the rest of your gear off the wall

a. do this by slowly letting the rope slide through your brake hand (the one below the belay device).

Step 20: Conclusion

The Zart Mies method of securing your lead rope to the top chains will revolutionize the way youclimb. This method is relatively quick, easy and very efficient. It is a great way for experienced climbers to get the thrill of lead climbing while lessening the hassle of securing the rope to the chains before rappelling down to clean up the quick draws.