Introduction: A Linear Laser Brush for Painting With Light
If you love photography and experimenting with special effects you will be happy to know that with a very simple circuit and a cheap laser you can easily build a sort of laser "scanner" to take impressive photos and portrait.
My project was born from a more complex automated laser scanner idea, and I decided to build this cool gadget so that you can give vent to your creativity.
Step 1: Laser and Instructions
This is a very common laser but its head projects a line, not a dot. You can easily find a red laser line on ebay.
I thought that if I was able to generate a pulse on that laser and I could set the frequency at my choice, the persistence of vision of photographic techniques should let me create many beautiful effects. Just turn flashing on and move your laser beam during the long exposure of the photo.
Step 2: The Pulse Circuit
You will notice that changing the values of components (on the falstad window right click on components and choose "edit") the frequency and duty cycle change.
Step 3: The Full Schematic
Now I only need to add the power source for the laser diode, a switch and some capacitors as circuit protection.
I know that laser consumes 5 mW and it requires +5V DC, so as power source I used a 78L05 voltage regulator (which provides 5V at 100 mA max). The NE555 controls the laser through the PNP transistor (you can use 2N3906, PN2907, BC556, BC557, BC559, 2N2907...), which also is needed to reverse the output signal, so that the short pulse of the wavelength stays up.
Step 4: The Pcb
In the attached pdf you will find a board schematic ready for toner transfer method (top view). Look at my other instructables if you wish to learn how to etch your own pcb.
Attachments
Step 5: The Prototype
Building a prototype was in this case essential, because I wanted to experiment different frequencies and take some test picture.
So I inserted all the components on a little breadboard and I connected a battery pack, composed by 4 rechargeable 1.2V AA batteries. Actually this could be a bit weak, because the resulting 4.8V is less than 6V required, anyway it works well. I still have to test it with 4 alkaline 1.5V batteries.
Step 6: Test Pictures
Finally I could take some test photos. To obtain the best result turn off any other light source so that it's almost completely dark, then set your camera to 800 ISO and full aperture width, choose the best shutter time depending on what you want to "paint" and... that's it!
As you can see the only limit now is your imagination ;-) I still have to try to shoot some portraits.
Participated in the
Full Spectrum Laser Contest
28 Comments
5 years ago
Nice instructable and excellent pictures! You could also mount your laser to servo motors or stepper motors to precisely control movement in the x, y or z axis so your patterns are spaced evenly. Thanks for sharing!
8 years ago on Introduction
Thanks for this instruction! That is a great idea for photography. My dad and I are not very experienced in doing stuff like that, but... we made it! And it works!
For a more mystical effect, we tried to work with fog. But the laser seems to be too weak for that.
Can you tell us, how the circuit would look like with a more powerful laser? What intensity would you recommend? Please tell us in an easy way, we are no engineers. :D
Thank you!
Reply 8 years ago
I'm very happy it works!
great idea using fog! yes probably a more powerful laser will work better, but it's more dangerous. anyway you can look for some green laser tutorial on instructables and adapt the circuit to it if voltage is different. good luck!
9 years ago on Introduction
Really nice work! One simple thing I did not understand: In the pictures presented did you scan the laser by hand while taking the shot?
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
yup, I moved the laser by hand in all these pictures. I also tried to hang it up to the ceiling fan and make it swinging, but those photos were not so nice.
9 years ago on Introduction
do you have a link where the laser will move like in the club
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
pictures are made with an exposure time of several seconds, so a video would not work...
9 years ago on Introduction
Great idea on using DipTrace! I did not know of its existence. For some reason I don't like using Eagle, so I was stuck with Fritzing so I gave DipTrace a try and I love it! :D
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
I also used Fritzing after Eagle, as you did, but Fritzing is not very precise if you want to make thin and dense traces... Diptrace is much more powerful, and it's free too (up to maybe 300 pins)
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
I agree, Fritzing lacks the vector feature, the jagged edges seem to ruin thin lines.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
yes, I love it too, we have to thank Dave of eevblog, I saw his video about it and I tried Diptrace after being stuck with Eagle :-)
9 years ago on Introduction
Someone has to use this to paint on a wall with photo-sensitive dye (like inkodye)!
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
great idea!
9 years ago on Introduction
Wow, i love it o.O I want it!
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Hey Jan your electronic skills are deeper than mine! Just make it! ;-)
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
Haha, thank you :D
9 years ago on Introduction
cualquier transistor pnp funciona no colocaste el numero de dicho transistor
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
you can use 2N3906, PN2907, BC556, BC557, BC559, 2N2907...
9 years ago on Introduction
Very nice idea. It definitely has other uses such as a 3D scanner.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction
yes, I thought about that... probably making two passes from two different points, one with vertical lines, and the other with horizontal lines, you can make a software that separates the views and creates a 3D model...