Introduction: Crowd Control Barrier
Take control of those crowds and paparazzi at your events with your own barriers.
Step 1: End Result
OK so my version is not quite as tough as the front page. But it will do our job! I'm making this to help with a kids' run. This barrier will help us keep the "paparazzi parents" back from the finish line.
Step 2: Materials & Tools
MATERIALS | TOOLS |
1.50" PVC pipe Plastic Bowls | Garden Trowel |
Scrap Plastic (ie lid to ice cream tub) | Saw |
Concrete | Drill & Large Bit |
Duct Tape | Wire Cutters |
Sandpaper | Pliers |
Wire – around 10-14 guage | |
Acetone (optional) |
Step 3: Tape Pvc Fitting to Bottom of Bowl
Step 4: Cover Open End of Pvc Fitting
All the bowls have the fittings taped into them. And also i have cut some plastic discs to sit on top of the pipe openings. Then finally some tape is holding those plastic discs to the fittings. Purpose is so the bottom of the hole is neat when we are done.
Step 5: Prepare Some Reinforcing Wire
Step 6: Place Wires Into Bowl and And Cement
I'm not sure if the wire is really recommended - but I thought it might help... The springy shaped wires are in each bowl ready to receive concrete.
Step 7: Remove Concrete From Molds
Step 8: Insert 36" Pvc Poles and Attach Linkage
Step 9: Extra Credit and Afterthoughts
I learned or was re-educated on a few things along the way… And I usually learn the most when I make mistakes.
Make sure you stir your concrete mix very well.Also pay attention to consistency so it can fill into all the mold areas properly.The wire probably inhibited some of the flow in my case.I had a couple voids show up when I popped the bases out of the molds.I used bondo to remedy this issue. I painted the bases white so they look consistent and beautiful. Twisting the wire around the pvc pipe was a quick thought that worked out great.Just drill a hole in near an end and then twist the wire so it looks like a candy cane.I’m not sure I want to have bare concrete bottoms, so I’m thinking of adding some round plywood plates under each.Use liquid nails to hold them.I fear the bottom outer edges will be too vulnerable and will end up looking bad.The plywood would probably prevent this.
I used acetone to clean off the printing on all the PVC pipes.If you are not familiar with acetone, it’s the most common chemical used as fingernail polish remover.Really good to know.Also random side note:Don’t leave your airbrush soaking in acetone overnight.I woke up the next day and the airbrush was clean as a whistle but 100% of the solder holding the airbrush together was GONE!
6 Comments
9 years ago on Step 9
Bobcjr,
Do you recall where you purchased your bowls.
What is the approximate diameter and depth of the bowls?
It seems to me, if the coupler piece inside the cement stays put, then the bowls would too. So, I'm wondering, did the hardened cement drop right out of the bowls or did you have to crack the bowls off in pieces?
Thank you for showing this tutorial. It has been very helpful.
10 years ago on Introduction
How much did this project cost approx? How much time did you invest? How heavy are the barriers? Nice work by the way!
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
My finished barriers included a 1/4" ply base attached with liquid nails. Final weight is 8.1 pounds each. That doesn't sound like much - but it "feels" very right.
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
I forgot you might want to include some cost for barrier tape - use plastic instead of crepe paper. If it rains that crepe is toast! Just saw on amazon for $8 for 1,000 foot roll. You probably won't use that up right away.
Reply 10 years ago on Introduction
Thanks much. The cost was approximately $40, but I already had some of the materials. My rough breakdown:
$8 (2) 10 foot 1.5" pvc
$5 50lbs fast set quickrete
$6 (6) bowls
$6 (6) pvc fittings
$5 optional plywood
$5 optional liquid nails
$5 optional paint
$40 total but I'm sure could be done for less.
10 years ago on Introduction
KEWL!