Hours and hours spent glued to your mom's TV with your friends, trying to say they were screen watching at 2am. Does this sound like the vast majority of your childhood? If so, please read on!
If you have ever wanted your own Remote Mine prop from Goldeneye 007 now is your chance. This Instructable goes over all the details, bits, bobs, and parts you will need to create your own "working" prop that beeps, is magnetic, and blinks! I have created this instructable because I wanted to make something everyone could get their hands on. I had made a Remote Mine prop in the past, but one major flaw is that finding one key component is nearly impossible nowadays. To protect the aging Remote mine from going the way of the Dodo, I decided it was time to bring it up to speed in 2013, utilizing 3D printing technology. The following pages outline how to print your parts, where to get the electronics, and how to assemble the whole thing.
All the dimensions of the 3D model I used for printing were painstakingly (Ok, it wasn't THAT painful) translated from the Remote Mine prop I had originally made ( Which was created the same way as the real movie prop). So everything is just about as accurate to the movie prop as humanly possible.
If you want to print your own mine, but don't have any way to 3D print the parts, head over to my Shapeways page where you can purchase the parts there.
You can find the printable components for sale here:
If you find your still hungry for more, download the .ZIP file to gather up all the electronic files you will need to print the mine yourself (If you have access to a 3d printer), then head onto the next step.
Step 1: Gatherin' Up Some Parts
Now, before you get started here are a list of components you must have to complete this project, most can be bought from Radio Shack, or on Amazon. Below are the parts you need, how many you will require, and where they can be found:
-Mini LED Light Chaser by Velleman (The one with the 9v cord sticking out) (Amazon, buy 1)
-76dB Piezo Buzzer Item#: 2062397 (Radioshack, buy 1)
-5mm Red LED with Holder Item#: 2062548 (Radioshack, buy 6)
-SPST Push On-Push Off Switch Item#: 2049717 (Radioshack, buy 1)
-Neodymium Magnets 3/8" dia. x 1/4" thick, Item# D64-N52 (K&J Magnetics, buy 8)
So to construct the unit once you have the parts:
First, print the components: (Note that I have included .STL files, GCODE files, and .X3G files as well. So not only will you have the raw data, but can use the EXACT settings I used to print mine. I have also included a .IGES of the whole thing put together, just incase you need some more instruction on what goes where.)
You can download everything you will need at once by downloading the "MINE.ZIP" File.
-Battery hatch - Print lying flat, without support or raft, this will ensure the snap feature works
-Lower Housing - Doesn't need raft or support, though it may warp without raft
-Upper Housing - Needs support unfortunately
-Both of the textured pads - Also needs support
Step 2: Solder, Solder, Solder
-Construct the "Mini Light Chaser LED Circuit" BUT Instead of installing the LED's that were included, use your spiffy new 5mm lights. Note that I could only get this thing to work when ALL the LEDS were soldered in place. It seems like it won't give you accurate results unless you commit and solder it all together first. Also there is a small "Jumper" that will make the LED's chase each other, instead of running back and forth. (Instructions on how to do this are found with the Mini Light Chaser itself) Now, there is one major change that I noticed since the last time I put one of these together.... Radio Shack's OLD LED's were easy to unsnap apart, so you would solder them to the board, then slide them into place in the housing. BUT NOW, they are produced without the capability of being snapped apart, MEANING that you must now run the wires of each LED through their little hole in the top section of the housing BEFORE soldering the wires to the board! IF you don't get what I mean, simply install the LED's into the mines upper half, before soldering them to the circuit board. I soldered two of the LED's wires together. That way two lights blink at once. Each pair of LED's is then soldered to the 2nd, 4th, and 6th position on the board. I am not a genius with electronics and for some reason couldn't get the thing to work by wiring 1 LED per location... took me quite a while to get something put together that actually worked. So, to anyone who actually knows electronics, if you make this, please put any comments regarding the circuit board in the comments below. All that I am saying is this is a critical step and will require experimenting since I have made two of these so far, and both have differnt electronic setups.
-I suggest that you feed the 9v wire through the battery hatch before wiring it to the board just incase you can't push it through afterwards!
-Instead of putting 1 light on each of the 6 contacts, I have chosen to put 2 LED's on each of the 3 contacts. I have placed 2 LEDS on the 2nd contact, 4th contact, and 6th contact on the board. That way two lights flash at once. Like I said, experiment, I had trouble with mine, so in the end I have it setup as detailed above PLUS I connected 1 of the original LEDs on the 1st position (Which doesnt matter since its inside the case and you cant see it.) For some reason If I did not solder in an LED on the 1st position the rest of the lights just flashed randomly.
-At this point also wire in the piezo beeper. I wired mine into the 6th position. That way when the lights chase each other they will "BEEP" on the last position before resetting.
Step 3: Install Electronics
-Before glueing or fixing anything together MAKE SURE IT ALL WORKS AND FITS IN THE HOUSING!!!
-Sand and/or paint the upper and lower halves + The textured pads. Now, you have two choices here, You can go with olive drab, like from the movie Goldeneye 007, OR you can go with a grey like from the game Goldeneye 64. The choice is yours. Because I never realized the mine was actually green, and loved the game, I went with grey. A two-tone grey in fact. I sprayed the lower half with a grey primer, and printed the upper half in a light-grey PLA. (Specifically this one here: amazon.com/Filament-3D-Printer-MakerGear-Ultimaker/dp/B00815QHGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364081205&sr=8-1&keywords=grey+PLA)
-Push each of the components into their spots. I would suggest glueing the LED's in place from the back side.
-Glue the magnets into their spaces located on the inside of the lower half of the case (There are four cylindrical extrusions, one on each of the four legs) Simply apply some epoxy to the magnet-holders, and force the magnets into place. I stuck my magnets to the end of a screw driver, this allowed me to press them into place. The fit is quite tight but mine slid in without any alterations. Once the magnets are stuck in there, stick the whole unit to something metallic, that way the magnets will really cling to the surface while the glue dries. Also glue the other 4 magnets into their spots, 2 will be glued sitting ontop of posts that stick up near the middle of the unit, on BOTH the upper and lower halves, once glued in place, these magnets will keep the upper and lower halves of the mine together, but you can still pry it back apart if you ever need to/want to get back inside. MAKE SURE TO CHECK POLARITY!
Step 4: Home Stretch!
-Once the unit has been tested, put a battery in the bottom, and clip the battery hatch into place.
-Stick on some adhesive backed foamy protectors, one on the bottom of each foot. (This is really up to you) This will stop your Remote Mine from scratching surfaces it sticks too, plus makes prying it off of those surfaces a bit easier!
-Stick to your fridge or any other metal surface (That won't end with you in the back of a police cruiser) and impress your friends!