3d Print an Mf Doom Pendant!




Introduction: 3d Print an Mf Doom Pendant!

Hey hip hop heads! As a massive MF Doom lover, I wanted to create a little piece of memorabilia to wear about. A pendant seemed about right as rings have already been done. Here is my process!This print was actually easier than I expected, so best of luck!

What you will need:

- a 3d printer you are familiar with. I use an Ultimaker 2 but Im sure any will work.
- Cura slicing software

- 3d printing filament of choice

- small files. Fine wood work and jewelry files work the best

- Necklace chain or rope

- sharp chisel for removing your print from the bed

Step 1: Finding Your File

I knew I wanted to use the 3d printer I had at my disposal, so the first thing I needed was a 3d image of his mask. Luckily enough for me, thingiverse user mitchellharvey posted a full size mask stl file in exquisite detail. Big ups for the file! *side note, I messaged the user to ask if it was OK in mentioning his file here but never received a response. If he does want me to not use it for any reason I will take this down*. So first thing we need to do is grab the file and download it!

Link here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:526825

p.s there are two versions, one with the spikes and one without. I recommend the one without if you are using a low res printer

Step 2: Setting Up Your Model in Cura

I use the slicing program Cura to prepare all of my prints, it allows an easy to look at layout that is specified for whatever printer you're using. In my case it was an ultimaker 2. to do this, simply open the program and then file>load model file> select the doom mask. As you will now notice, the mask is far too big for the printer as it is full size. We will need to scale it down.

Step 3: Scaling

To scale the model down we will simply use the scale tool at the bottom as shown. I find it easiest to keep the uniform scale button locked and scale down the z height. I wanted the mask to be 70mm tall, so I entered 70 and hit enter. simple! You can feel free to set any size you want, but this seemed comfortable and any smaller would have lost detail in the print.

Step 4: Laying the Model Flat and Setting Up for Printing.

The hardest part of 3d printing is getting your model set up right. Too much overhang and it will flop over on itself. Too narrow of a base and the model wont have enough structural support to hold it up. The best way to lay a model out is to have it flat with as much of the model touching the base as you can. For this I turned the mask back 45 degrees and then hit the lay flat button as shown. I found that this model kept wanting to put the right half of the mask raised above the bed and thus not allow it to print. Keep pressing the lay flat button until both "horns" are touching the bed.

Step 5: Check Layers and Supports

Cura gives you the ability to see the printing path layer by layer. This is a good way to see if you've set enough supports and troubleshoot any areas that look iffy. I set this one to supports everywhere. This placed supports where the bottom horns of the mask met the eyes and one tall one under the spiked tip of the mask. This is the best way to print it to keep the mask from failing. As a side note, its always good to have the brim tool turned on as it will build an easily removable flat printed surface for the mask to print on. you can see the correct brim on the second picture.

Step 6: Print On!

Now comes the fun part of sending the g code to your printer and watching it work its magic. This print was relatively quick at 1 hour and 47 minutes. I had the infill at 20% which probably sped it up a bit. Set it and grab yourself a cold one while you wait! When finished simply slide it off the bed with a sharp chisel and remove the support material by hand. Be sure to choose your favorite filament to do this one in as it will look great. I went for Faberdasheries "galaxy blue" which is a blue purple color with tons of glitter flake. I feel Doom would approve.

Step 7: A Little Bit of Filing and Cleaning

I didn't want to sand this model too much as I didn't want to lose the shine of the filament. The curved surfaces of this model came out spectacularly and I wanted to preserve it. The only thing that really needed cleaning was a bit of extra filament strands on the side of the mask as well as in the eyes. Small files used for fine wood work or jewelry work are great for this kind of precision cleaning. just take the nibs off and you are good to go!

Step 8: Add a String or Chain and You Are Rocking!

As you can see in this photo I haven't added my chain yet as I was too excited to wait and pick one out. If you have printed with the spikes, these work well for attaching the chain or rope. If not you can easily drill two small holes through the side and send the chain through that as well. And you are done! Keep on rocking Doom lovers!

Be the First to Share


    • Pocket-Sized Speed Challenge

      Pocket-Sized Speed Challenge
    • Super-Size Speed Challenge

      Super-Size Speed Challenge
    • Metalworking Contest

      Metalworking Contest

    5 Discussions


    3 years ago

    I was wondering is there a way to put this in some other file type to be able to make it out of paper or foam?


    3 years ago

    This mask looks coincidentally like Russell Crow's mask in Gladiator. The 2 are virtually the same. Only difference the Gladiator mask is part of a helmet.

    Oh, here's why...http://genius.com/artists/Mf-doom

    DIY Hacks and How Tos

    Awesome doom mask. I really want to make one of these full size.


    Reply 4 years ago

    the original file is a full size one! I think with a bit of cutting up the mask could be printed in 3 or 4 parts. Maybe my next project...