Introduction: Battleshots

Breathing expert. Still working on everything else.

Battleshots is a drinking game variation of the classic strategy grid game commonly known as Battleship.

Step 1: Supplies


- 4 - 2' x 2' panels of plywood (I used MDF)
- 2" x 1" boards for boats (34" of boats total, I recommend at least a 48" piece to allow for cutting).
- 3 piano hinges, 12" long
- dowel pegs (I used 1/4" pegs, 3 packs of 72)
- shot glasses (plastic or glass, 34 total)

- Router with 1/16" bit
- Sanding equipment
- Drill with bits to fit dowel pegs (1/4") and to make cradles for shot glasses (1.5" bit on drill or drill press. See image of bit I used).

- Stain for panels and/or boats
- Hooks and eyes to hold panels together for storage
- Storage tubs for pegs and shot glasses (I found fishing tackle gear that did the trick).

Step 2: Mark Panels for Routing

In a 2' x 2' panel, I allowed two inches per square for a total of 20" x 20" grid. This gives you two inches on each side of extra space. To allow for lettering/numbering, I offset the grid by one inch to the right and down, giving me three inches on the left and top, and an inch of clearance on the right and bottom.

The grid is marked out with a pencil, and I marked the grid diagonally as well- the crosses in each square will give you the drill point for your peg holes.

Step 3: Router. and Then Router Some More. Then Drill.

Use your router to etch the 10 x 10 grid on each panel. Obviously, be sure to clamp a guide to allow for straight lines. This takes quite a while to complete. Hang in there.

When you're finished with the router, use your drill to drill holes in the middle of each square. Be sure not to drill all the way through- go perhaps 1/2". Drill stops are your friend, or put some painters tape on your drill bit to correspond to the desired depth.

As you finish this process, if you'd like to apply a stain or finish, now is the time to do so. Let the panels dry as you start on your boats.

Step 4: Boats!

In keeping honest with the traditional game, and given the dimensions described earlier, you'll need the following boats and lengths:

- 2 carriers (5 spaces each, or 10" each)
- 2 battleships (4 spaces each, or 8" each)
- 4 subs/destroyers (3 spaces each, or 6" each)
- 2 patrol boats (2 spaces each, or 4" each)

Again, each space is 2" wide, so boats should also be 2" wide. I found that 1" thickness is adequate for these boats.

Cut your boats to necessary length, and drill holes for the shot glasses. I used a 1.5" bit. I recommend sketching out where the holes are going before drilling. Make a line every 2" in the length of the boat, then make diagonal marks from the corners of each line. This will give you equidistant spots to drill down the middle of the boats.

When you're finished drilling, sand and feel free to add a little flavor to the shape of the boats. I sanded down the edges of the front is each boat.

Optional- stain and/or finish boats with polyurethane.

Step 5: Dowel Pegs

Paint dowel pegs. I painted 72 pegs red and 146 white, to be split evenly between players (1 box of 72 red, two boxes white).

I used 1/4" pegs to correspond to the 1/4" holes I put in the grids.

Step 6: Assembly

Apply lettering and numbering on the top and left of grid (I used 1" vinyl letters and numbers). I HIGHLY recommend doing this before attaching hinges, which I did not do and regretted later).

Use hinges to attach panels end-on-end. Be mindful of the orientation of the grids if you've chosen to offset grids to allow for lettering as I've done.

Optional- install hooks and eyes or similar in the side of the panels to lock the game into a collapsed position for storage. I also installed extra hooks to allow for locking the game into place when set up for play. (NOTE: if you're using any sort of plywood, be sure to drill pilot holes to minimize splitting of your plywood).

Step 7: Accessorize!

I have a cheap toolbox to hold the boats and pegs. The pegs are separated into two tubs for easy access to each player. I put felt pads on the bottom of the game as well as the boats to preserve the finish of the game and protect the table it sits on. The shot glasses are stored in a fly fishing tackle box I found at Walmart.

Step 8: Game On!

You're ready to play! As always, be responsible if you use this for drinking purposes, and I highly recommend filling shot glasses with something other than the hard stuff.

Feel free to contact me with questions or suggestions on how to improve the design. Enjoy!



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19 Discussions

That is so cool! You took it to the next level, nice job!

Very nice!
Here's another version from last year:

This is genius! Thanks for a great instructable!

ha! Thanks. I've updated the Instructable to look a little less silly talking about dow rods. For now, it's going to be a house party and tailgating game. If I had the know-how to mass produce this thing, I absolutely would. As it happened this time, with time and supplies expenses, I'd probably need that $500 to make it worthwhile to make them to sell.

1 reply

I saw this on jimmy Fallon. Awesome

Dowel. Dowel pegs. Pretty sure you really don't want to use Dow pegs.

Looks like a very cool take on a classic game. I agree with GrumpyOldGoat, that would be gold at a VFW hall.

If I hit my opponent's boat on, say, C3, then my opponent would drink the shot that's resting on C3. I don't have any additional rules for sinking a boat, but if you want to make that part of your house rules, I say go for it!

If you make a "hit," who drinks? Is there an additional penalty for a sunk ship?

Patent it, find a mass producer in your country and market it to sports bars, military organizations, etc at no less than $499.00.

Bars and VFW Posts will make their money back in 3 days.

Ya it wouldn't work after awhile when your drunk

Yes norsk, I mean monotonous monopoly.

Awesome armyofmike , how about a drnking game for Monotony ? pass go and pass out.

bad a$$.... love it!

Well done! Might have to try this for a new year's party game. And Welcome to the community!

I hope this is a team drinking game! Looks fun!!