This is a remix of the brilliant Blade Runner Binoculars by JON-A-TRON. Please find the assemble instruction and additional files there. I made this to correct the dimensions, left side and back for a more accurate representation of the prop using images available, screen grabs and Adam Savage's tested build. Some compromises to keep the scope in place. Basically everything has been changed so most parts here are not interchangeable with the original version. However, the side window back panel has the same dimensions. Please note this model is mirrored back so that it resembles the original prop. Larger threads are M4. M3 for the bracket. M2s for the bracket that fixes the wheel in place on top and the turn switch. I added a 3/8-16 thread on the bottom you can insert a 3/8 to 1/4-20 thread adapter. With each new photo that emerges of the original more details become clearer and I will keep updating the model. Included the fusion 360 file so that everyone can improve this easily as well. Still need to ad the strap and think about some electronics to put in. Plenty of space for a Pi zero or Trinket. Have fun. Thanks again to Jon-a-tron for making the original files available.

Step 1: Printing

Please orient the parts as you think your printer will cope with them best. I just exported the files from Fusion 360. I use Simply3D that allows dense support structures and I leave 0 layers between support and part. Harder to clean up but better overhanging surfaces. I use an updated WanhaoD6/Monoprice Ultimate. My upgrades can be found on thingiverse or youmagine.

I use PETG for printing projects like this for accuracy and because it is easy to sand and work with. 0.4mm nozzle, 0.150mm layer height, 2 perimeters, 5 bottom and top layers 30% triangle infill. I printed the new hood, the left side buttons and the bumper in Ninjaflex. 50% infill for the Ninjaflex.

Step 2: Prep and Paint

1. Filling in some gaps with melted filament with an soldering iron set to 230C. This is also great for smoothing things out. Gaps in surfaces I fix with gap filling Cyanoacrylate setting it with spraying some accelerlator.

2. Wet sanding all with 220 grid.

3. Cleaning all with a hard brush under hot water. This gives a fairly smooth surface.

4. 3 layers of Montana Universal Primer T2300. Wet sanding with 320 grid after each layer. Very little spray required, be careful this stuff runs easily.

5. Cover areas with blue tape that will receive other parts like the greebly on top, the side switch the grove for the hood etc. Put screws into the threads. They are also a great way to hold the parts during spray painting.

6. Ad colors.

The colors I selected:

Montana Gold Manilla Light CL6400

Montana Gold Blood Orange G2095

Montana Shock Black SH9000

I started with brighter paints that will stand up to the whethering and dirt I will put on it. Obviously this is not supposed to be a military issue as the front is orange red as you would find on search and rescue equipment.

Last layer I spayed on from some distance to get a more structured effect that looks like a rough powder coat.

Step 3: Scuffing and Weathering

1. Use a Dremel tool to create scuffs all over the exposed corners

2. Fill in the scuffs and marks with Molotow Liquid Chrome Marker

3. Montana Varnish T1010 gives a nice finish and foundation for the weathering.

4. Adding dirt. Work around the viewer by painting diluted acrylic paint and wiping it of with a towel and spraying it with a mister with 70% Isopropanol to get the paint into the crevices. Use Isopropanol and a stubby brush to distribute or take off colors.

Nothing bad can happen with the varnish on. You can remove everything with Isopropanol but be careful not to remove the base paint if you have to do that.

I use black and different shades of brown in subsequent passages.

Step 4: Windows

I printed the window models to have guides to cut the windows from Lexan sheets. Cut the Lexan with a Dremel and than sanded all to the exact size with the printed parts as guides attached.

Small sensor windows were painted black in the back before gluing them in.