Catproof Your Yard




I wanted to be able to let my cats out into our fenced back yard without worrying about them jumping over the fence or other cats getting in. My wife saw a system for sale on the Internet but I made my own for 1/4 of the price. Here's how I did it.

Step 1: The Theory Behind the Fence

In theory, cats will not climb a reverse overhang or jump out and over something when they can see straight down. I found the first part to be true so far, but my neighbor's cat definitely disproved the second part. The unwanted visitor managed to get in my yard, but he could not get out until I let him out and has not been back since.

By attaching plastic mesh garden fencing to my wooden fence, I have been able to keep my cats in and the neighbor cats out (for the most part).

Step 2: Supplies Needed

Green Zip Ties (Fred Meyer) 4 for every garden post.
4' Vinyl coated garden posts (Lowes) Count the number of 4x4 posts that are holding up your fence and buy that many.
40" Green garden fencing (Lowes) This comes in 25' rolls, buy the same length as the fence you are going to attach it to.
2' of 2x4 boards (scrap boards will do)
1' of 2x2 board (also scrap)
1/2" Plastic leg tips (Home Depot) One for every garden post.
Hacksaw or Saber Saw With Metal Cutting Blade
1/2" Electric Drill
1/2" Drill bit
Electric or Manual Staple Gun with 1/2" or 9/16" staples
Tape Measure
Chalk Line

Drill press
Chop saw or Radial Arm Saw

Step 3: Make Your Drilling Jigs

First, I made a couple of guides for drilling into the fence.

1. Cut two 10" to 12" lengths of 2x4 and the same length of 2x2. If necessary, cut a 2x4 in half.
2. If you have a chop saw or a radial arm saw, cut a 6" wedge of scrap wood at 45 degrees. If not, use a compass or other device to mark 45 degrees on the wood and cut it by hand.
3. Place the wedge under your drill press with your 2x4 pieces on top of it and drill a 1/2" hole completely through the board as shown.
4. Nail the 2x2 to the remaining 2x4 creating a 'V' shaped board.
5. This next step is pretty tricky to do, but if you're patient you can do it. Create another 6" wedge from scrap lumber, except make this one 62 degrees.
6. Put the wedge under your drill press with the 'V' guide on top of it and drill through the joint where the boards meet (through the middle of the 'V').

Some drills have bubble levels built into them. If you have a drill with a built-in level, you can use that instead of a drill press as long as you are very careful to drill straight down.

Step 4: Snap a Chalk Line

Snap a chalk line about 30" down from the top of the fence, all the way around the yard. Using the flat guide, drill a hole into each fence post. Use the 'V' guide to drill holes in the corner posts.

Step 5: Insert Posts

Using a hammer or your 2x4, gently tap fence posts into the holes you drilled.

Step 6: Cut Off the Posts

Using your level, mark the posts you just inserted even with the top of the fence and cut them off with your hacksaw or saber saw. Cap the cut end with the leg tips.

Step 7: Attach the Fencing

Attach the top edge of the garden mesh to the posts using the green zip ties the whole length of the wall or the length of the mesh, whichever is shorter. Make sure to overlap the ends enough so that the bottom reaches all the way to the corner.

Starting in the center, push the green mesh fencing against the wooden fence and attach it to the post near the bottom using another zip tie. Work your way to both ends, one side at a time.

Finish up by adding two more zip ties to each post evenly spaced so that the fence is attached to each post with four zip ties.

Using your staple gun, affix the green mesh that hangs down below the posts to the wooden fence. I put four staples into every fence board, but you may choose to use less.

Step 8: Happy Cats!

The cats love being able to go outside again, even though they are all big babies and wouldn't last ten minutes in the real world.

I wanted to get this published for a friend, but I will be adding directions for being able to open your gates. I'll show how I did it, but I'm sure someone with more imagination can figure out a better way to do it.

2 People Made This Project!


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38 Discussions


2 years ago

I love it! It will make a little predator happy to be outside again.


3 years ago

Great Idea! lots of cats in my yard but does it work for squirrels too? I would be totally in to do this


3 years ago on Step 8

This is an awesome idea


9 years ago on Introduction

I am currently working on an outdoor cat fence, too, but rather than buying and cutting garden stakes, I am using flagpole brackets (the small ones used for classroom flags). I installed a bracket on each fence post, inserted a 1/2" X 36" wooden dowel into the bracket, and attached lightweight garden netting along the top side of the dowels. I stapled the garden netting to the fence at intervals. The brackets provide a uniform angle and it looks good. You can place them near the top of a five foot fence and no one runs into them. Here is the website where I found this method. There are also instructions for chain link fencing.
What a cool thing for our cats!

4 replies

Reply 4 years ago on Introduction

do you recall where you found your flagpole brackets? No one seems to carry them locally.



Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

I have done something similar to what you have done, except I have a problem with trees inside my yard and close to the fence (3 of them).

I have a U-shaped area and on the left & right sides, first I have to staple some mesh to the fence on the bottom (only because the fence has spaces in between that the cats can easily get through. Then near the top of the fence (5') I have screwed in 5 flagpole holders at intervals. After putting the flagpoles in the holders, I then staple gun more mesh at an angle all the way across and it works. The cats seem to look at it as a ceiling even though they can scale part of the lower mesh.

But I have run across problems with trees along the back fence. I do have some "tree-guards" on the big trees, but my cat can still scale the back fence and somehow get through a gap that may be created in the mesh I put there as a ceiling. Once he gets through he is able to walk across the mesh along the back fence.

This has been an problem on & off since for 6 months there is enough stuff there to prevent him from leaving the yard; then after a time, he may discover a small gap in the mesh that enables him to get through the mesh to the top (like now).

The only way I can see how he is escaping is to stake him out, but he is getting smart about when, where and how I'm watching him and won't do it unless he's sure I'm away from a window. Suddenly he's gone. And he can't come back the way he left because when he wants in, he's at the frbnt of the house waiting for me at the front door to let him in,

I've usually been able to find where the problem is, but I don't see anything yet. He's driing me nutz!


Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

Rbecca, that's a great alternative that I hadn't thought of. I put my cat guard low enough so that it would not be seen from outside of the yard due to my homeowner nazis (I get nastygrams for leaving my garbage can where it is visible from the street). But there is certainly no reason it can't be higher if you don't mind the appearance.
Thanks for the idea.


Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

Thanks! I live in an older neighborhood that seems pretty mellow - lucky.
We just finished the cat fence and released the critters to check it out. Our most adventurous cat - Nemo, started climbing the fence post, stopped - looked up, and jumped back down. I considered that our first success. We will continue to monitor the cats for weak points, but if I was a cat I'd just give up and enjoy being outside.


4 years ago on Introduction

Thank you, Thank you This is great and not expensive. I can now leave my cats out without worry. I also would like to see instructions for a gate. Please.


All supplies for cat containment fencing are available here:


4 years ago on Step 8

So clever and helpful and much cheaper than what you can buy! - thank you! :)


4 years ago on Step 8



thats a great idea if you want to let your indoor "in heat" cats out side for a wander but don't want them knocked up. If anyone is wanting to keep cats out of their flower beds you only need to place water bottles and chilli peppers in and around the perimeter as they do not like the water bottles for some reason as well as when they lick their paws the chilli peppers piss them off too so they won't return. I learned the trick from my Thai Grandmother Pon.

1. Life expectancy for cats that are allowed to roam free is about 1/2 that of indoor cats. 2. Cars vs cats. Cars win. 3. One of my cats already has feline HIV from an escape a few years ago and I don't want to pay to treat any more diseases.


A few more reasons to add: (4) Cats hunt, which can lead to them getting intestinal parasites. Also in many areas, outdoor cats hunting the indigenous fauna is a serious problem for the local ecosystem (for example, New Zealand).


5 years ago on Introduction

Very nice informtion. THANKS. Been trying to pull together ideas for doing just this. This was just the ticket! Very cool.


6 years ago on Introduction

I did this to try and keep my cats from escaping the back yard. I made my own brackets rather than buy them pre-made. For close to 2 years they never escaped. Then my youngest one started getting out. Took forever but thanks to a motion sensor webcam I set I finally found out how she was escaping. Turns out cats will indeed climb a reverse overhang. I had my brackets at a 45 degree angle. When I looked at the, ridiculously priced, commercial brackets I realised they were at a much sharper angle. Meaning the cat would be almost upside down when trying to climb over. So when making your own brackets make sure you have them at the correct angle and you should have some nice and secure cats.


Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

dude just do it on the other side? it might not have to be that big... if you already have a fence that is