Intro: Concrete Lamp - DIY
It only takes a few supplies to have a lightening that seems as if it is created by the touch of a
designer . Get ready! We are getting started!
Step 1: Step 1 : Tools
- Lean concrete
- One big and one small plastic container for moulding
- 3 timber footing with a diameter of 28 mm
- Insulating material with a width of 28 mm
- A socket
- 4 meters of electric cable
- A switch
- A craft knife
Step 2: Step 2 : Draw and Cut
First of all, I made a hole in the bottom of the smaller plastic container, which would be used for moulding, in a way that electrical components can pass through. I used different ways to shape the hard plastic, because I only had cutters such as scissors and craft knife. I proceeded with the cutting procedure more easily after I heated the plastic to achieve a nearly melting form. Thus, I ended up with a gap, where the electrical equipment could be placed, at the bottom of the plastic container which will remain at the center of the moulding.
Step 3: Step 3 : Mix the Concrete
Then I started the preparation process of the lean concrete bought from construction market. According to the data I had obtained and the previous trials of mine, the consistency of the concrete should be as viscous as that the mixture can keep its form for a while when we squeeze and then release. Until that consistency achieved, I continued to blend it by adding water gradually.
Step 4: Step 4 : Use Your Hands
While i was blending, I interfered with the hand in order to reach every point. Thus, I provided a homogenous distribution of water through the whole material.
Step 5: Step 5 : Transfer
After the preparation process of the lean concrete was complete, the homogenous admixture obtained was transfered into the big plastic container by spreading properly so that no big gaps left.
Step 6: Step 6 : Electrical Components
After that, the connection between the socket and electric cable composing the electrical components that would pass through the concrete was built up.
Step 7: Step 7 : Fixing
I placed the socket into the plastic container, that I made a hole at the bottom of it, in a way that the open end of the socket would remain inside the container. Both the socket placed inside the pressurized concrete with the help of the small container was stabilized, and the circular form that was established outside with the help of the big container was also established inside by this means. After this step, the concrete laying between two mouldings was fixed to dry properly.
Step 8: Step 8 : Cut and Sink
Then, I used insulating material to build up the gaps where the timber footings would be placed in. I sealed off the material’s one end with the help of a tape and some insulation material and placed the material into the concrete so that its sealed end would remain inside the concrete. I let the cable out by passing it through the one of the gaps prepared for the timber footings so that the cable, which would get out of the concrete, could pass through the timber channel.
Step 9: Step 9 : Dimensions and Balance
After these steps, I corrected the gaps where the footings would be placed in by measuring the directions, angles of the footings and the distances between the footings in the moulding procedure that was nearly complete. By this means, both the footings were stabilized and the symmetry was established. After this procedure, I left the moulding I obtained for drying.
Step 10: Step 10 : Remove the Container
After I waited for two days, I removed the smaller moulding with a hole at the bottom of it, which was placed at the center, by stretching it out from the sides.
Step 11: Step 11 : Different Effects
Later, I turned the moulding upside down by adding the footings. In the light of previous experiences, while I expected the moulding to release the concrete easily, this procedure happened to be harder. The reason for that could be stated as that the plastic materials and the consistency in here were different from the ones in previous trial.
Step 12: Step 12 : Last Checked
After I unmolded the concrete while it was on the shorter timber footings, it reached the latest form by the addition of the longer timber footings. After placing the light bulb and connecting the lamp to the electricity, I saw that there was no problem in this respect.
Step 13: Step 13 : Metal Piece to Stabilize
After the procedure was complete, I made the blacksmith forge a metal piece to stabilize the timber footings of the lamp. The details of the metal piece are as stated below.
Step 14: Step 14 : Silicon
Furthermore, as i wanted the footings to stand in such an angle, I applied silicon to the ground where I placed the footings by giving them the proper angle. You can use them as straight or by giving them an angle if you like. It’s up to your taste. Good luck with that already!