I built this Console Table at my home's balcony, using basic home tools.

It took a few days to finish it, working for a few hours at the evening after coming back from work.

The drawers are 'fake', since we didn't need the storage space and it reduced the complexity of the build.

After building the table, I thought how to still utilize the space inside (although there are no real drawers) and one option is by making the top board open-able using hinges and then it can be used as a 'secret space'. I didn't have the chance to do it yet, but it can be an idea for anyone who wants to build it.

The following video includes all steps and dimensions, from cutting to painting.

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Enjoy! :)

Step 1: Required Tools

General List of tools I'm using - https://www.itzikdiy.com/tools-list?m=1

Basic required tools:

Jigsaw (for round cuts)
Another more accurate saw (e.g. circular saw)
Drill / Screwdriver
Measuring tape
Sand paper
Brush / Roller

I used the following saws:

Evolution RAGE1-B Multi-Purpose Circular Saw (new model - R185CCS) - https://amzn.to/2VGwkgX
Evolution RAGE Multi-Purpose Carbide-Tipped Blade - https://amzn.to/2y2w5z0
Black & Decker electric jigsaw 520W KS701PEK - https://amzn.to/2CtptgP
Digital Caliper - https://amzn.to/2NVYReJ

Step 2: Required Materials

Required Materials:

18mm width pine wood board.
4*4cm pine wood profile (for the legs and connections poles)
0.5mm width plywood board for the 'fake' drawers.
20mm Oak wood board - for the top (you can use pine wood, but I found oak it more special and it was suitable for the other furniture we have at home.)
Screws in different sizes.
4 small angles for some connections.
3 wooden 'button' handles
Wood glue.
Wood filler.
Paint (I used chalked paint).
Dark brown pastel color. (the one that kids use)
Clear protective topcoat.

Step 3: Cutting the Wooden Parts

Following are the dimensions of each wooden part needs to be cut:

4 legs - 78 cm (from the 4 x 4 cm wood profile)
Boards (18 mm):
1. 1 bottom board: 88 x 29 cm
2. 1 front board: 88 x 20.5 cm
3. 2 inner sides: 14.5 x 29 cm
4. 2 outer sides: 20.5 x 23.5 cm
Other parts can be cut during the build in the required size to fit.

Step 4: Connecting the Bottom Board to the Inner Sides

Connecting with 3 screws for each.

Step 5: Connecting Poles As a Base for the Front Board

Step 6: Connecting the Rear Legs to the Inner Sides

Connecting with screws from inside.

Step 7: Connecting the Front Legs to the Outer Sides on Angles

Creating 0.5 cm space with a plywood. (the side is not connected on the edge of the leg, but with a 0.5 cm space). see pictures on later steps for the result.

Step 8: Connecting the Front Legs and Outer Sides - to the Inner Sides

Taking the 2 connected parts from the previous step, and connecting with screws to the inner sides.

Step 9: Connecting the Rear Legs to Outer Sides

Same here - Creating 0.5 cm space with a plywood. (the side is not connected on the edge of the leg, but with a 0.5 cm space).

Step 10: Cutting Roundred Shape on the Front Board

Drawing a rounded shape on the board, with a printed rounded shape.
The center of the circle is in 3.5 cm depth.
Cutting the rounded shape on the front board using a jigsaw.
Connecting the front board to the current build.

Step 11: Preparing the Base Poles for the Top Board Connection

Cutting some poles to fit the frame of the inner table build and connecting them. This will be later be removed and be connected to the top oak board, on the next step.

Step 12: Preparing and Connecting the Top Oak Board

Rounding the edges with a trimmer.
Marking the position of the poles on the top board with a pen.
Remove the 3 poles we created on the previous step.
Connecting the top base poles to the top board.
Putting the top board on the build and connecting.

Step 13: Connecting Each Front and Back Legs Together

Using wood glue and screwes.

Step 14: Preparing and Connecting the 'Fake' Drawers

Cutting the 3 'Fake' drawers front panel from 0.5 width plywood, 26x12 cm each.
Connecting the 'drawers' with a wood glue.
Putting heavy weight on top for drying.
Drilling holes for the handles.
Expanding the holes inside for the handles' screwes heads.
Connecting ther handles.

Step 15: Filling, Sanding, Painting

Filling holes with a wood filler
Sanding.
Painting.

Step 16: Tip: Giving a Vintage Look Easily

Since that the color below the new paint is too bright (pine wood color) and for getting a distressed vintage look it's better to have more dark color, I gave the vintage look by painting the corners with dark brown pastel color on top of the new table's color, instead of sanding.
Finishing with a clear protective topcoat paint.

That's it...

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