Intro: DIY Coffee Table
When people find out you like woodworking, they always ask the same thing: "How much would it cost for you to build me this thing I saw on the internet?"
I had a friend ask me to build her a coffee table that she saw on pintrest. So naturally I said sure and send me the pic! You can follow along with the build process of this DIY Coffee Table.
Step 1: Materials/Tools
Here's a break down of the materials/tools needed and online links.
2"x6"x8' Lumber (for the table top and shelf)
2-1/2" Pocket Hole Screws
Qty: 1 box should work
1-1/2" Wood screws
Qty: 1lb box
- Kreg Pocket Hole Jig: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-Jig-Pocket-Hole-S...
- Drill or Impact Driver
- Miter saw or Circular saw
- Tablesaw (optional)
- Sander and paper
- Planer (optional)
Step 2: Material Cut List
We are working off a specific set of dimensions. The final dimensions of the coffee table are as follows: 22" in depth by 45" in width by 18" tall. If you are working on a different size table, then you'll need to adjust your cut list accordingly.
2"x4"x16-1/2" (Vertical leg pieces)
2"x4"x16-1/2" (Stretchers for the legs)
2'x6"x45" (Top of coffee table)
2"x6"x41' (Lower shelf)
2"x4"x38" (Stretcher between the two legs)
Qty:1 (This piece you cut into 2 pieces that are 1"x4"x38")
Step 3: Assemble the Legs
Now that we have all the parts cut, we'll start by assembling both legs. To do so, we'll need to first drill pocket holes in both leg stretchers for our screws. I put two screws on each end of the stretcher in order to give it more stability. The top stretcher should be flush with the top of the 2 vertical leg pieces. To assure that it's flush, drill the pocket holes on the bottom of the stretcher and use a flat surface to butt the stretchers up to the legs and place the pocket holes screws. For the bottom stretcher (where the shelf will rest) place it 2 inches above the bottom of the vertical leg pieces. Once the legs are assembled it's time to start working on the table top.
Step 4: Assembling the Table Top
Take the 4 pieces that are 2'x6"x45" and lay them on a flat surface. Determine which side of the board you would like facing up. Then flip them over so that we can start drilling pocket holes to join the boards together. Start 4" in from both ends and drill a pocket then add a 3rd pocket hole at the center point of the two end pocket holes. If you are going to user a planer to flat the boards, then you'll need to join these boards up in sections of two so that they can fit through the planer. You can also use some glue as an additional bonding agent if you would like some extra hold. Once they have been planed down, you can join the 2 sections together. After that you can sand down the top surface. Now we need to assemble the bottom shelf.
Step 5: Assemble the Bottom Shelf
The bottom shelf is pretty similar in it's assembly as the top of the table. Determine which side of the boards you want facing up and then drill pocket holes on the bottoms of those boards. After that join the boards together with the pocket hole screw and some wood glue. From there, the dimensions of the shelf won't fit inside legs, which is how we want the shelf to rest, so we need to trim down the edges so that they fit. You can lay the shelf on a flat surface and then butt the legs up against the end. That way you can see how much of the shelf needs to be trimmed. Then either take it to your table saw (if you have one) and trim it down or use a circular saw. Either way, once you are finished the shelf should rest on the bottom stretcher of the legs and fit in between the two vertical leg pieces on each end. From there you can clamp the the shelf to the leg so that you can turn it on it's side and drill the pilot holes and screw the shelf to the legs. At this point, the table is actually starting to take shape. Next up are the stretchers between both legs.
Step 6: Attach the Stretchers
These stretchers have two functions. First, they are additional stability for the legs. This will help prevent rocking for the table. Second, the offer another point of contact for the table top. You'll be able to put screws up from the bottom of the stretcher to the bottom of the table top. To secure these stretchers, drill pocket holes on the bottom of the stretchers. Then place the leg assembly upside down so that you can line the top of the legs up with the stretcher, making them flush. Attach the stretchers with pocket hole screws. Once these are attached, it's time to make the X supports for each leg assembly.
Step 7: Attaching the X Supports
The X supports are more decorative than anything else. The do function as some additional support for the legs, but they aren't necessary for that. However, they look nice, so let's do it. First, you need to lay our the first half of the X. Do so by laying the 2x2 on the end of the legs so that you can mark the cut lines. You want these going from corner to corner. After that, make your cuts. Secure these in place with a screw from the top of the leg stretcher and bottom of the leg stretcher. Then lay another 2x2 over that piece and mark your cut lines. This time you'll be cutting 2 pieces. Screw these in place using either pocket holes or you can glue them in. After this we'll attach the table top.
Step 8: Attach the Top to the Rest of the Table
We're on the home stretch! Flip the table top upside down so that the pocket holes are facing up. Then place the leg assembly upside down onto the table top. Drill pilot holes in the stretchers and attach the top with 1-1/2" screws. Final step is to sand the whole thing down and prep it for standing/painting.
Step 9: Sand and Admire
We're at the finish line. All we need to do is sand down all surfaces. You decide how smooth and polished you would like this table to look. Honestly, this is the worst step. It takes a while to sand, but it's worth it in the end.
REJOICE! You've finished a beautiful coffee table build!