DIY Cooler

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Awesome Electronics Tutorials, Projects and How To´s

Intro: DIY Cooler

Wouldn't it be nice to have a cold beverage right next to you? In this project I will show you how to achieve this luxury by building a homemade cooler which decreases the temperature of your beverages down to 8 degree Celsius. Let's get started!

Step 1: Watch the Videos!

The two videos give you all the information you need to build something similar. For further reference see the following steps.

Step 2: Buy Your Parts!

Here is a list which contains the most important electronic parts for this build:

Amazon.com:
1x Arduino Nano: http://amzn.to/1M6B3we

1x 2 Channel Relay Board: http://amzn.to/1MU2FTD

1x DS18B20: http://amzn.to/1MU2FTD

2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: http://amzn.to/1MU2FTD

2x CPU Heatsinks: http://amzn.to/1MU2FTD

Amazon.de:

1x Arduino Nano: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

1x 2 Channel Relay Board: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

1x DS18B20: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

2x CPU Heatsinks: http://amzn.to/1VAMOeT

Ebay:

1x Arduino Nano: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

1x 2 Channel Relay Board: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

1x DS18B20: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

2x CPU Heatsinks: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1...

Aliexpress:

1x Arduino Nano: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/QBqzZvFEQ

1x 2 Channel Relay Board: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/7EuRJei6u

1x DS18B20: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/nAI6IImiu

2x TEC1-12706 Peltier Modules: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/qjYfQvr3B

2x CPU Heatsinks: http://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Ur7EUj2Bm

Everything else (MDF, Styrofoam, brackets, hinges, bolts & nuts,.....) can be found in your next home improvement store.

Step 3: Build the Case!

Here you can find the measurement for my three layer case design. Feel free to build your own like this or get creative and change it in one way or another.

Step 4: Wire Up the Electronics!

Here you can download my Arduino Code and the schematic that I created during this project. If you build everything like it is described then there shouldn't occur any problem.

Step 5: Success!

You did it. You successfully built your own cooler.
Feel free to check out my YouTube channel for more awesome projects:

http://www.youtube.com/user/greatscottlab

You can also follow me on Facebook, Twitter and Google+ for news about upcoming projects and behind the scenes information:

https://twitter.com/GreatScottLab

https://www.facebook.com/greatscottlab

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    40 Discussions

    0
    None
    KonradK8

    Question 3 months ago

    Hi Scott!

    What kind of unit are in step3 on the first picture?

    0
    None
    MadushanJ

    12 months ago

    Hi scott I have problem
    I think that you controlling two coolers with Arduino and relay by on & off but not fans. Why is that? Is there any reason to switch on fans all the time? or is it ok to make it off with the cooler?

    0
    None
    MilanK14

    1 year ago

    Hi scott I have problem

    Arduino code is broken. This Error log

    C:\Users\I'mUserC:\Users\Koudysik\Downloads\Cooler_Sketch\Cooler_Sketch.ino:1:21: fatal error: OneWire.h: No such file or directory

    #include <OneWire.h>

    ^

    compilation terminated.

    exit status 1

    Error compiling for board Arduino Nano.

    2 replies
    0
    None
    MotownMMilanK14

    Reply 1 year ago

    Be sure to install the necessary libraries, otherwise the code wont compile. just search OneWire and DallasTemperature in the Manage Libraries panel in the Arduino IDE, and install them from there. I had a similar issue, only to realize that the libraries aren't installed by default.

    0
    None
    MilanK14MilanK14

    Reply 1 year ago

    New Arduino: 1.6.12 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Nano, ATmega168"

    lto1.exe: internal compiler error: resolution sub id 0xde907f8f not in object file

    libbacktrace could not find executable to open

    Please submit a full bug report,

    with preprocessed source if appropriate.

    See <http://gcc.gnu.org/bugs.html> for instructions.

    lto-wrapper: C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-gcc returned 1 exit status

    c:/program files (x86)/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.9.2/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: lto-wrapper failed

    collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status

    exit status 1

    Error compiling for board Arduino Nano.

    Invalid library found in C:\Users\\Documents\Arduino\libraries\examples: C:\Users\\Documents\Arduino\libraries\examples

    Invalid library found in C:\Users\\Documents\Arduino\libraries\examples: C:\Users\Documents\Arduino\libraries\examples

    This report would have more information with

    "Show verbose output during compilation"

    option enabled in File -> Preferences.

    0
    None
    KonradK8

    1 year ago

    Welcome. But what aboat with source of dc? How to use how much AMPERS?

    0
    None
    bigyabbie

    2 years ago

    cool project:
    I am surprised that it takes so long to cool your device, so a couple of quick suggestions/questions.

    Surely it makes sense to make the fridge top opening as cold air falls and you can best guarantee the seals of the non-opening faces and joint (basic chest freezer principle). It would also surely make sense then to place the peltier system in the opening door at the top, as hot air rises and cold air falls. I would also presume it make sense to paint the alluminium plate on the inside of the fridge black and or have a larger surface area so that it can absorb more heat from inside the fridge more quickly. Also using extruded polystyrene foam as used on construction sites to insulate floors would be more effective then standard ball foam, Often easy to get from a construction site as they throw away off cuts.

    Final comment is that the real inefficiency of this must surely be the aluminium spacer blocks reducing the heat transfer to the inside of the fridge and the small air holes through the foam reducing the air flow over the heatsink at the back. Understandably these are needed because of the thinness of the Peltier plate and the thickness of the foam insulation. So why not use a water cooling block and small induction pump to move the heat through pipes, may be much more efficient. Just a thought, love to know your response

    0
    None
    bigyabbie

    2 years ago

    cool project:
    I am surprised that it takes so long to cool your device, so a couple of quick suggestions/questions.

    Surely it makes sense to make the fridge top opening as cold air falls and you can best guarantee the seals of the non-opening faces and joint (basic chest freezer principle). It would also surely make sense then to place the peltier system in the opening door at the top, as hot air rises and cold air falls. I would also presume it make sense to paint the alluminium plate on the inside of the fridge black and or have a larger surface area so that it can absorb more heat from inside the fridge more quickly. Also using extruded polystyrene foam as used on construction sites to insulate floors would be more effective then standard ball foam, Often easy to get from a construction site as they throw away off cuts.

    Final comment is that the real inefficiency of this must surely be the aluminium spacer blocks reducing the heat transfer to the inside of the fridge and the small air holes through the foam reducing the air flow over the heatsink at the back. Understandably these are needed because of the thinness of the Peltier plate and the thickness of the foam insulation. So why not use a water cooling block and small induction pump to move the heat through pipes, may be much more efficient. Just a thought, love to know your response

    0
    None
    JohnnyK26

    2 years ago

    if i dont use the 4.7 k resistor and use a 0.12k resistor what will hapend?

    0
    None
    xrobevansx

    2 years ago

    I find it hard to believe 2 peltiers will cool down to -8 C....really?

    4 replies
    0
    None
    DanielGustafsson90xrobevansx

    Reply 2 years ago

    Just as an FYI to your previous comment I just today used a peltier (TEC1 12706 I believe) and a serious heatsink/fan combination and managed to reach -30C on the surface of the peltier. I don't know how easily that is to fill a larger space though. :)

    0
    None
    martinsebas77

    2 years ago

    Can
    this project be solar powered? Maybe a little bigger for storing more than a
    beer... how big do you think it could be using a 160w solar panel to keep it at
    a 10 to 5 degrees centigrade?

    0
    None
    mleo1

    2 years ago

    I get an error message when I verify your sketch:

    Arduino: 1.6.5 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Nano, ATmega328"

    Build options changed, rebuilding all

    Cooler_Sketch.ino:1:21: fatal error: OneWire.h: No such file or directory
    compilation terminated.
    Error compiling.

    Am I missing something here? I'm looking forward to adding this to my current cooler fridge project.

    3 replies
    0
    None
    mleo1mleo1

    Reply 2 years ago

    Okay found what I was missing in another instructable. I needed to
    download the OneWire and DallasTemperature libraries and add them to the
    Arduino library folder. Also noticed that you left off the 4.7k
    resistor in your list of items.

    0
    None
    mleo1rania_abdulhadi

    Reply 2 years ago

    https://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-Arduino-Thermometer-With-DS18B20/