Drinking Glasses From Wine Bottles




Introduction: Drinking Glasses From Wine Bottles

Hello, my name is Eddie. I'm one of those people that can't leave well enough alone so I'll inev...

Making drinking glasses from wine bottles has been around for years, and while it is relatively easy to cut a bottle, making a nice useful drinking glass is a little more difficult.

Yeah, I can go to Target and buy a set of glasses, but it is pretty cool to be able to use/recycle bottles that in many cases go in the trash.

And of course, you can always take pride in the fact that you made them yourself!

WARNING: There is the possibility of injury from broken glass when performing the steps in this instructable. Proceed at your own risk!

Step 1: Get Your Bottle

Although you can technically make a glass from any bottle, I prefer wine bottles because they are much thicker than your typical bottle. Beer bottles in particular are very thin and more likely to break and cut you.

You'll also notice that most wine bottles have a big "dimple" on the bottom called the "PUNT". It is OK on a bottle, but not so nice in a drinking glass. Some people like the punt and glasses made from these bottles are often referred to as "punt glasses".

I prefer the flat-bottomed bottles commonly used with certain types of white wines. If you only drink red, try Bordeaux bottles, they are often flat on the bottom.

Beware: the nicer the bottle, the worse the wine usually tastes!

Step 2: Cutting the Bottle (part 1)

OK, safety first:

Wear gloves and eye protection!

There are many tools and methods you can use to cut a bottle; the cutter I used is all metal and I like it better than some of the plastic-framed models sold at craft shops. However, any jig that allows you to make a consistent scoring line around the bottle should be good enough.

This tool uses the scoring method which "cuts" a line around the bottle. Glass of course has a crystal structure to it and can't really be cut at room temp but rather broken in a controlled manner.

Once you score the line at a predetermined size you then move on to the next step.

Step 3: Cutting the Bottle (part 2)

Using a candle and some patience, carefully heat the bottle at the scoring mark rotating the bottle as you heat it. Hold the bottle with both hands, one on each end. I will typically heat the bottle for about a minute and then drip cold water on the area. Repeat the process until the bottle suddenly breaks apart. You will actually hear slight cracking of the glass as you do this.

The first time I did it I was very tentative but now it usually takes me only about 5 mins to cut a bottle.

Be carefull, the cut edges are EXTREMELY SHARP!

*Note:  I've also had success by heating the bottle in the oven for about 5 minutes at 225 F and pouring water over the score line.   You'll need to ruin a few bottles to perfect your method.

Step 4: Finishing the Edges

OK, this is tedious part of the process. Obviously you don't want to cut your mouth every time you use the glass so you have to smooth out the rim.

Professionals who do this for a living will "flame roll" the edges of the glass making them shiny and smooth like a standard glass. Unfortunately that requires specialized tools and you'll want to carefully anneal the glasses afterwards to minimize the chances of cracking and breaking.

** You cannot simply take a propane blow torch and get the edge smooth!  If you try it, it will simply crack the whole glass.   If you really want to do that, you'll likely need a glass worker's torch (usually Oxygen/Propane).

Using a Dremel tool, I first rough up the sharp cut using a Silicon Carbide conical grinding tip. Oh yeah, wear a dust mask, you don't want to be breathing ground glass!

Roughly grind the inside and outside of the edges using the Dremel. I also placed a strip of aluminum tape around the rim of the glass so that my grinding comes out as even as possible.

Continue to smooth out the edge using drum sanding attachments: I used 80, 120 and 150 grit. I would have used finer grits but that is all that I could find for the Dremel.

After a while, you'll have a fairly smooth edge that although usable, it is still kind of rough. Time to sand by hand using 200 grit sandpaper or finer.

You can keep going with a finer and finer grit, but if you want to finish the glass sometime this year, you'll call it a day after 200 grit.

You can also use a wire wheel on the lip, you'll get a shiny silver edge on glass that actually looks pretty cool.

Step 5: DONE!

Before you stick your glass in the dishwasher, you can also etch your initials on your glass to make it truly yours.

Or etch the glass with your sweeties' initials, making it a nice gift.

Of course, if you have a laser engraver, it is even easier and you can make some very intricate designs that way.




    • Metalworking Contest

      Metalworking Contest
    • Tiny Home Contest

      Tiny Home Contest
    • Creative Misuse Contest

      Creative Misuse Contest

    227 Discussions

    Can you round off the edge by going over it with a torch, or with that make it crack?

    this is something I want to try, thanks for the clear instructions

    Making drinking glasses out of wine bottles is a project my wife wanted to do, guess who is ending up doing it. I tried various scoring methods to cut the bottles which left unacceptable results. Remembering that I had a wet tile saw, I tried it and it worked great but it still wasn't right. looking on line i found a company that had a wet blade just for cutting glass. I did about 60 bottles in about 2 to 2 1/2 hours. Not all bottles are the same thickness through out the bottle.

    What you need for cutting bottles.

    1. A wet / dry tile saw

    2. Glass cutting blade - order online --check arbor size on saw first

    3. Work out side, there is overspray from the blade

    4. Arrange bottles by the type of bottom they have

    5. Determine the size of glass you want by determining how many oz it will hold, use a measuring cup to pour the water into the wine bottle, mark the fluid level on the bottle, take the bottle lay it on the saw with your fluid mark against the blade, move the guide against the bottom of the bottle and lock it into place. Now you are ready to start cutting many glasses the same size.

    6. turn the saw on, place the bottle against the guide and the blade lightly while turning to score the glass. Then using slight pressure push the bottle into the blade while turning it untill the top is cut off. Each bottle should take between 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 minuets to make the cut. DON'T GET IN A RUSH

    7 Now comes the polishing part.

    OMG, this is an old one. Maybe this time it will go over 1M views.

    Anyway, the cutter itself has long been discontinued but there have been other products introduced since then as well as some other home made ones here on Instructables. Of course, it is much easier to laser etch your glasses now but even today not everyone has access to a laser engraver.

    There has also been a couple of other products introduced for sanding the edges of the glasses. I've ordered some, I'll have to do an update to this one!

    2 replies

    Is there a common person who would have a laser engraver? (Someone I could approach and use theirs) Or is it something that people order and own personally?

    The cheapest laser engraver is still a couple of thousand dollars so it is not likely something you'd find in people's garages just yet. However, they are affordable enough that you can find them at many maker spaces and schools.

    Really neat, will try it soon

    "Glass of course has a crystal structure to it"

    No it doesn't. Glass is unique in that is is what is known as a "super cooled liquid". In science, the term glass is often defined in a broader sense, encompassing every solid that possesses a non-crystalline (i.e. amorphous) atomic-scale structure and that exhibits a glass transition when heated towards the liquid state.

    2 replies

    Yes, however the molecules are arranged in ways such that when the fluid shears it shears in a certain manner. Much how the cubic structure of NaCl forms cubes.

    no, actually it's a non-crystalline amorphous solid


    Is the bottle cutter made from drawer slides or is it available like that?

    Also, wonder why you choose to do the finer sanding by hand instead of using a drill or some other mechanized method, or possibly make your own finer sanding drums for the dremel.

    Goo Gone works great, but be careful not to spill it over a table with polyurethane or other finish... it'll ruin it badly!

    Hi there, I tried it this week and got the label off by soaking in hot water with a little dish soap. I even simmered the bottle (after cutting) in a pan of water. But I still have a lot of glue on the bottle. Will acetone get the glue off? Or do I need something else. I guess they're making better label glue these days.

    7 replies

    METHANOL cuts through adhesives like nothing. add a CLEAN, NEW razor blade or some 4 ought 0000 fine steel wool.

    Methanol is a good solvent. It is also readily absorbed through the skin, and is toxic. Use nitrile or latex gloves, don't get it on your skin, and keep it away from all sources of ignition...it is highly flammable.

    i know that this is an ooooold post, but i wanted to respond. The very best thing for removing label glue residue is lighter fluid. NOT FIRE, just lighter fluid. it seems to be the perfect solvent for label adhesive. a little on a paper towel will often take it right off. a little more, and a green scour pad will take off the most stubborn sticker from a glass bottle.

    Lighter fluid is repackaged naphtha at a premium price. Look for VM&P Naphtha at Home Depot or Lowe's. Around $7.99 a quart.

    A quart of BBQ lighter fluid costs about 3-4$ at my local grocery store, so i'll keep using that. (the BBQ stuff has less odor than the lighter fluid for Zippo lighters) Thanks for the heads up though.

    That's interesting. I found Kingsford Odorless Charcoal Lighter Fluid 64 oz for $6.97 at the Home Despot. The MSDS says it's 100% Aliphatic petroleum solvent, which is what naphtha is. I didn't know they now made it odorless. I have a gallon can of Coleman Camp Fuel which is also odorless naphtha. It was cheap at Walmart but now they don't sell it any more. I think because it is used by meth labs like so many solvents.

    I recommend zippo-type lighter fluid. It contains NAPTHA which is an awesome solvent for glues that can't be removed with soap and water. Definitely wash the glass thoroughly after using this, though.