E-dohicky the Electronic Version of Russ's Laser Power Meter Dohicky

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Intro: E-dohicky the Electronic Version of Russ's Laser Power Meter Dohicky

Laser power tool.

e-dohicky is the electronic version of the dohicky from Russ SADLER. Russ animate the very good SarbarMultimedia youtube channel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A-3HdVLc7nI&t=281s

Russ SADLER presents an easy and cheap accessory to measure the power of a laser in the 'RDWorks Learning Lab 53'

Here is a description of an electronic, version who automaticaly show the power after the exposure.

Here
is the description of an electronic version which indicates automatically the power.

The procedure begins as described by Russ Sadler. It is necessary to begin by choosing an exposure time among 3 proposed by Russ, 10.25, 20.5 or 41 seconds with patterns supplied by Russ. It is then enough to push on the button start of the e-dohicky and to start the laser.

Russ created 3 patterns for 3 exposure times, 10.25, 20.5 and 41 seconds. You will choose the duration which corresponds to the power of your laser. More the laser is powerful shorter will be the exposure time. Before beginning a measure, it to tell is necessary in e-dohicky which will be the exposure time. It is simply made via the setup screen.

The e-doHICky is created with an Arduino pro mini so it's easy to create your own.

Bill material:

- 1 x Russ's dohicky

- 1 x very precise NTC MC65F103A( http://www.mouser.be/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=... ) ( about 6€) https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/18/AAS-920-306C-NTC-T... or find 'MC65F103A' on Mouser, Digikey, or in your facvorite store.

- 1 x TL431B ( http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Texas-Instrume... ) ( about 1.5€ )

or find 'TL431B' on Mouser, Digikey, or in your facvorite store.

- 1 x Arduino mini pro 3,3V or 5V ( or equivalent ) ( about 5€)

- 1 x Oled SSD1306 display (or equivalent ) ( about 5€)

- 1 x DS18B20 ( about 1€)

- 1 x step up booster 0.9V-5V->5V ( https://www.banggood.com/5Pcs-DC-DC-0_9V-5V-USB-O... )

or ( https://www.banggood.com/5Pcs-PFM-Control-DC-DC-0... )

or ( https://www.banggood.com/5pcs-Mini-DC-DC-0_8-5V-T... )

or ( https://www.banggood.com/Mini-DC-DC-0_8-3_3V-To-D... )

( about 5€)

- 1 x buzzer ( http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/?art=LD-BZEG-0905 ) or equivalent ( about 1€)

- 1 x transistor BSS138 or equivalent ( http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/?art=BSS138-FAI ) ( about 0.01€)

- 1 x resistor 100 R smd 1206 ( about 0.01€)

- 1 x resistor 10K smd 1206 ( about 0.01€)

- 1 x resistor 10K 0,1% smd 1206 ( about 0.2€)

- 3 x capacitor 0,1uF smd 1206 ( 3 x about 0.5€)

- 3 x capacitor 10uF smd C ( 6032-28 ) ( 3 x about 1.5€)

- some normal pins header

- 1 x switch about like this : ( http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Apem/25136NAH6... )

OR ( http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/switches-and-indicat... ( about 0.5€ )

- 1 x PCB ( about 2€ ? ) The PCB is now available at EasyEda: https://easyeda.com/danielroibert/dohicky-73d71ba...

- 2 x Neodymium magnets ( https://www.banggood.com/20-PCS-Rare-Earth-Neodymi... ) ( 1.28€ )

IF Arduino 3,3V

- 1 x 3,3V regulator : AP2210N-3.3TRG1 or equivalent ( about 0.4€)

- 1 x capacitor 0,1uF smd 1206

- 1 x capacitor 10uF smd C ( 6032-28 )

OR directly that ( https://www.banggood.com/Mini-DC-DC-0_8-3_3V-To-D... )

For 5V Arduino, do not populate the 3.3V regulator and shorting jump on PCB.

All the files can be downloaded below.

There is 4 resources type :

- C program for Arduino.

- Sketchup, stl and DXF files for case plastic laser cuting and some 3D pieces.

- PCB files. ( also available by EasyEda )

- Instructions, pictures and videos.

This project is open and it's possible to enhance it. It's the first version and all your idea are welcome :-)

It's easy to make simplified version.

I'm working on a version of the case with a simple mecanical switch cuted in acrylic. (A simple slide who separate the door with the magnets and the battery.)

Thank-you :-)

Step 1: Order the Pcb on EasyEda

The pcb is now public on EasyEda:

https://easyeda.com/danielroibert/dohicky-73d71ba5fee44be99c8af7e5fdd644f2

Step 2: Assembling PCB

Put the right component at the right place in the right direction. I hope the pictures will help enough for that.

I'l try to put more details as soon as possible, depending of yours questions.

The connector of the SSD1306 have to be a few shortened ( about 2 mm) to fit in the case.

i'l add the link to EasyEda when I finish to recreating it there. ( it's done now)

Step 3: Assembling PCB Oled Polarity

For the SSD1306, there is two polarity type. The jumpers help you to
set the right polarity for your own SSD1306. Simply short the jump with a few solder.

Step 4: Assembling PCB If 5V Arduino or With an 3.3V Step-up Converter.

If you use a 5V Arduino, you dont need the 3.3V regulator. Then simply not populate the 3 components, and short the jump with solder. ( the good SSD1306 can work with 3,3V and 5V)

If you use a 3.3V step-up converter you dont need the 3.3V regulator. Then simply not populate the 3
components, and short the jump with solder. ( the good SSD1306 can work with 3,3V and 5V)

Step 5: Temperature Accuracy

There is one special operation:

I wanted to include a rather precise measure of the absolute temperature. To arrive there, I used a very good NTC probe and a TL431 as a reference of precise tension. It is not maybe essential, but if you can do the big things, you can do the little things as well. ( It's necesary for be better than the 0,3°C required for 10.25s exposure) Arduino is equipped with one ATmega328P which has a voltage reference entry for the ADC. In brief is on the pin 20. Unfortunately, this pin is not available on the connector of the Arduino mini pro. It's relatevoly esay to solder one wire on this pin. I prefered solder the wire on the capacitor near the pin 13 of the external connector. The wire need to be soldered on the PCB as show on the picture.

If you thing that it's not necessary to get an as good accuracy, you can forget the TL431 ( the 100R resistor and the two capacitors) and the wire. It's also necesary to remove two lignes in the program :

- at about line 12

#define VREF2495 2495

change to

#define VREF2495 3300 ( for 3.3V )

or

#define VREF2495 5000 ( for 5V )

- In the setup() function:

remove the

analogReference(EXTERNAL) ;

Step 6: Preparing 3D Printed Pieces

After removing the printing defects, adjust holes to 2.5mm

Step 7: Preparing 3D Printed Pieces

Make threads into all 2.5 holes previousely adjusted.

Step 8: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle. Insert the Nut

Step 9: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle. Reinforcement Ring

Step 10: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle.

Step 11: Preparing NTC

This is one delicate step ! ( take your time for do it )

Here is the NTC

Cut the two wires of the NTC at different length.

Get a few insulator silicon from a electric cable. One of about 5 cm ( AWG 22 ) and one of 8 mm ( AWG 18 )

Insert the cable's NTC into the 5 cm silicon.

Solder the NTC to an about 10 cm thin cable and isolated it with heat shrink tube.

Step 12: Assembling NTC in Dohicky

Put a few thermal paste on the NTC.
Insert the NTC deep down the dohicky.

Step 13: Assembling NTC in Dohicky (next)

Add a 8 mm * 2.5 mm ( AWG 18) silicon tube or equivalent soft before the screw then tight gently the screw.
The silicon (or soft thing) is for not break the NTC when tight then screw.

Step 14: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle.

Step 15: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle. Insert Dohicky

Insert the thin cables through the 3D printed 'dohicky' support.

Insert the dohicky in the 3D printed 'dohicky' support then tight the screw

Step 16: Preparing the Dohicky's Nozzle.

Tight gently the screw, just for keep the NTC's cable in place, only to avoid that the cable moves.

Step 17: Shorten SSD1306's Pines

Shorten the pins from about 3 mm.

Step 18: The Case

Here are the files for create the case.

The case is to lasercut in Acrylic 3mm. There is 3 pieces who need to be 3D printed.

I used 2 litle 2,9mm*7mm magnets for battery case. ( https://www.banggood.com/20-PCS-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnets-N50-7mm-Diameter-x-3mm-Thickness-p-940975.html?rmmds=search)

You can use differents magnets, but you need then to change the holes size.

The dore have to be glued. Take care about the orientation. The hole have to be by the bottom as shew in the picture.

Take car about the orientation of the magnet support, the hole have to be by the botton right.

I'l add steps for assembling all that.

I hope you have sketchup ( V8 or greater ) for watch all details.

Step 19: The Case : Glue the Door With Switch.

Here is the steps for glue the door.

take care about the orientation of the pieces.

Take care to not put to much glue on the last pieces. the 'switch' set must keep moving along the slot.

Step 20: The Case : Electric Wire With Magnet.

The 'switch' must be well able to pass above the magnet.

Step 21: The Case: General View

Take care to the legs

Step 22: The Case: Battery Older

First, check the right orientations of the 3 pieces.

Step 23: The Case: Battery Older Fix Magnet and Wire.

Tighten the magnet and the red electric wire.

Step 24: The Case: Fix Magnet and Wire to the Door.

Tighten the magnet and the black electric wire.

Step 25: The Case : Full Assembling

- Weld the red wire in the + to the PCB and the black wire in the ground, depending on the type of your power converter.

- Connect the douhicky's NTC and the DS18B20

- Then assemble the case

Step 26: Program for the Arduino

The sketch use a some standards librarys. There is one special for the SSD1306. I dont use the frequent one because the one I use is faster. This library is the one from Alexey Dynda.

After added the SSD1306's Alexey Dynda library, you can upload the sketch to the Arduino.

This project is not for dummies then I assume that you know how to load a sketch in an Arduino mini pro.

The sketch can work with others Arduino, then you can use it with an Arduino Uno.

Step 27: User Guide

The e-dohicky can be in 3 differents mode.

- Idle mode

- Run mode

- Setup mode

There is only one button and you can make operations with 'normal push' or 'long push'. A long push is 1 second long.

After power up, the e-dohicky is in 'idle mode'.

- In this mode you can read the dohicky's temperature, the room's temperatur and the actual exposition's time.

It's important to set the right 'exposition's time' according to the exposition time set in the Russ's patern, 10.25, 20.5 or 41 secondes.

Before start a mesure, check if the 'exposition's time' is correctly set.

Set the right 'exposition's time':

- The e-dohicky have to be in 'idle mode'. ( if not, 'long press' for back to 'idle mode' )

- make a 'long press'.

- then 'normal press' for loop until you chose the right time.

- When you see the right time, make a 'long press'.

- The e-dohicky save your choice and back to the 'idle mode'

In 'idle mode' the e-dohicky compare the dohicky's temperature and the room's temperatur.

The difference between both can not be more than 3 or 4 degrees. If the diffference is bigger, then an alert message is displayed and it's impossible to start a mesure.

When all is right, you can start a mesure.

Make a mesure :

- You normaly need to load the right Russ's patern in your laser machine.

- You can then start a mesure by press the e-dohicky's button and start the laser machine.

- Keep the dohicky in the laser according with the Russ video explanations.

When the laser is stoping the exposition, the e-dohicky is automatically waiting the end of the raising of temperature, then make a beep and show the measured power in Watts. This can take some seconds ( about 5 to 10 or more depending of the conditions )

After reading the power, you can back to the 'idle mode' with a 'long press'.

At this time, the e-dohicky will probably show an alert fot the dohicky temperature is to high.

You have then to get cold the dohicky as explained in Russ' video :-)

After that, the e-dohicky is ready for the next mesure.

- If you have to stop a mesure run, simply 'long press', then the e-dohicky go back to 'idle mode'.

Special alert:

There is a special alert if the dohicky's temperature is growing to 70°C or more. In this case, you have to power off the e-dohicky and get cold the dohicky to a 'normal' temperature.

Step 28: Take Care About the Electrice Spikes

My machine is rather badly assembled and the high-voltage cable passes along the tube. It entraine a dispersal of the high-voltage spikes at the ignition of the tube. The e-dohicky is an electronic device and he can be perturbed by it. I noticed that the e-dohicky sometimes makes a reset when I measure the power at the exit of the tube. The problem does not arise when I measure the power on the other side, nearthe mobile head. There are several manners to mitigate this problem. One manners is to armor the high-voltage cable. We can either, make cross the cable by the inside of the machine, or it armor with a piece of sheet of aluminum linked with the ground of the machine, an other way is to link the dohicky with the ground of the machine.

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    23 Discussions

    0
    None
    elecprojectfun

    Question 3 months ago on Step 28

    Hi Daniel
    I am building your Laser Power meter project but I have a problem I cannot seem to message Russ through his youtube channel
    I have signed up etc etc but no joy
    The point is I need one of Russ's dohicky's or the project will have been a waste of time and money
    Sorry for contacting you but please can you help
    Regards
    sue

    3 more answers
    0
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    danielroibertelecprojectfun

    Reply 3 months ago

    Hello Sue,

    Sorry for the answer's delay. You can contact Russ by his Youtube channel. Here is is answer:

    "I now advise people to add a short comment with their email address and promise to delete it immediately. I get a gmail notification of their comments so I can safely delete it from the public arena. As more people discover my channel I still sell a steady stream of dohickies. I am just about to process another batch.

    All best wishes"

    Regards,

    Daniel

    0
    None
    elecprojectfundanielroibert

    Reply 2 months ago

    Hi Daniel

    I have managed to get a Dohicky from Russ

    Now just have to finish building the project ! ! !

    Thanks for all your help

    Kind Regards

    Sue

    0
    None
    danielroibertelecprojectfun

    Reply 3 months ago

    Hello Sue,

    I
    notice as you that the link towards Russ Sadler's hannel is not
    good any more. I looked for Russ Sadler and here is links which work. I own only 1 or 2 of the dohicky's

    that I use for my personal use. I am
    also going to try to contact Russ for ask if it can always
    supply of dohicky's. Tell me if you do not still manage to contact Russ.
    In the worst case, if Russ cannot supply any more with dohicky's, I could
    help out to you with one of my personal reserve.


    https://www.youtube.com/user/SarbarMultimedia/feat...

    0
    None
    Adam020

    7 months ago

    Is there any chance of buying this,

    I mean the finished product?

    3 replies
    0
    None
    danielroibertAdam020

    Reply 7 months ago

    Hello,

    I’am sorry, but I do not sell this module any fact, because the shipping raise problems which I prefer to avoid.

    0
    None
    Adam020danielroibert

    Reply 7 months ago

    I heard that you are from Belgium, I am from Holland, I think there would be no problem sending the item

    Kind regards

    0
    None
    danielroibertAdam020

    Reply 3 months ago

    Hello Adam,

    I would like I could help, but I am not organized to send something.

    Regards,

    Daniel

    0
    None
    bonnette

    6 months ago

    How do I go about getting a Dohickey ?

    Thank You

    1 reply
    0
    None
    danielroibertbonnette

    Reply 3 months ago

    Hello ,

    Sorry for the answer's delay. You can contact Russ by his Youtube channel. Look at the answer to Sue.

    Regards,

    Daniel

    0
    None
    Nate Ocean

    9 months ago

    You show how to set up a measurement, but don't show any results screen shots.
    And why all the strange number (such as 10.25s, etc)? Shouldn't you beep to tell the user to press the laser test button, and beep again to release it. Then let the Arduino do the math and report back the calculated wattage based on temperasure rise and time?

    3 replies
    0
    None
    danielroibertNate Ocean

    Reply 8 months ago

    Hello,

    All about the the exposure times ( 10.25s 20,5s or 41s) are explained in the Russ’ video and documentations. Theses times corresponding to the file created by Russ for get the right exposure time. There is some beep in programm for tel the user when the mesure starting and when the mesur is ended.

    0
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    Nate Oceandanielroibert

    Reply 8 months ago

    Yeah, I understand Russ's video.

    Those exposure times are an artifact of him using an existing digital temperature meter and effectively scale the result so that the temperature difference can be directly read as power. But with an Arduino in the system you don't have that constraint.

    I think you may have blindly implemented a digital thermometer without understanding the underlying physics.

    0
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    danielroibertNate Ocean

    Reply 8 months ago

    What
    I understood or not, is not the subject. If you understood as all the
    others, it is the main thing. The purpose here is to simplify the use
    according to Russ's calibration.

    You have sources code and you can thus modify all that you want. Share your own Instructables with your modifs.

    0
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    MichaelE267

    Question 8 months ago on Step 27

    Hello!
    I read in the comments you could possibly help source some parts...
    I am having difficulty getting the PCB made (a blank PCB, I can populate myself) and the 3d printed cap... Any help or links greatly appreciated!
    (Already got the lollipop from Russ)

    2 more answers
    0
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    danielroibertMichaelE267

    Answer 8 months ago

    Hello Michael,

    I’l create the PCB by EasyEda, that need some times, I’l let you know when it’l be done. For the 3D pieces, all STL files are provided here. You probably know a Fablabs, makerSpace or friend with a 3D printer ?

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    fred_dot_u

    9 months ago

    This is a very comprehensive well written Instructable. Nicely annotated and accompanied by great photographs. I am hopeful to be able to construct one of these meters. I have Russ' dohickey and it works great, even though it is only slightly bulky to have a temperature meter and probe with separate wiring. Your project turns the entire assembly into a very convenient hand-held sophisticated power meter.

    Have you considered to provide the PCB files in SVG, AI, or DXF or other vector format? I ask, because laser cutter owners can create PCBs by masking the copper board with black paint, then burning off the non-copper areas of paint, followed by etching in appropriate solution.

    Congratulations on a great project presentation.