Flat-Pack Picnic Table From 1 Sheet of Plywood




We live a block from Greenlake in Seattle. On nice days, if you don't get a picnic table by 10:30AM, then you're out of luck until after dark. We love to load up the grill and have picnics at the park, but without a table, it can be a little tough on these old bones. While researching flat-pack furniture for a CNC machine, I came across these plans for a flat-pack picnic table (see attached PDF file). I've always loved "One Sheet Plywood" projects, so this was right up my alley. It's cheap, easy and fits our need perfectly.

I'm entering this in the flat-pack contest, so if you like this Instructable, please vote for me at the top of the page!

Step 1: Layout

Handling full sheets of plywood is always a challenge for one guy, so rapidly reducing the size of the stock you have to work with is a good idea. To accomplish this, lay out the table top, seats and seat supports first, then cut them off to rapidly reduce the size of the plywood panel you have to work with when laying out the more complicated parts. I used 3/4" sande plywood from a big box store which was only $40 for the 4'x8' sheet, so this project won't break the bank. I plan on finishing it and protecting the plywood from water since there's no guarantee the grass in the park will be dry.

I'm used a circular saw (Skill saw) to make my cuts, so I had to take some additional precautions to ensure my cuts came out nice. I made my reference measurements, made a tick mark with a pencil, then laid down 1.5" blue masking tape where the cut will go, then redid my tick marks in Sharpie marker, then using a straight edge, laid out my cut line. All of this additional effort is because circular saws cut on the upstroke, so the masking tape on the top veneer will protect the plywood from tear-out.

The dimensions on the plans I used are extremely confusing, as they all reference each other so it's easy to propagate a mistake. In reality, it's much easier to just reference the edge for all your measurements. So after I cut out all my parts, I drew up a much easier diagram in AutoCAD (see attached PDF). Once you've lopped off your top and seat parts, you can use the interior measurements to rapidly layout the more complex parts.

The plans call for putting a 4" radius on various corners. It just so happened that my roll of tape was exactly 4" in diameter. This dimension is not critical, but you do want a nice large radius. Please note that almost every intersection/corner gets a radius except the interior corner where the seat slats go. I didn't catch this in time when I cut out my parts, but it's an easy fix with the Japanese pull saw. I also opted out of the fancy radii on the feet.

Layout: 1.5 hours

Step 2: Making Your Cuts

As previously mentioned, all the tape was to reduce the tear-out from the circular saw, which worked really well, as expected. I clamped a straight edge in place, making sure to offset the level by the distance from the blade to the edge of the shoe (1-7/8" on mine - your saw may vary). I then lopped off the five rectangular parts for the top and seats. Once that's done, you're ready for the layout and cutting of the interior parts.

WARNING: You must be VERY comfortable using a circular saw for the next step!

Taking your circular saw, make a plunge cut on all the interior cuts. Start in the middle of the cut line and work your way back to the radius (fillet - pronounced "fill-it"), keeping your blade right on the Sharpie marker line. This is one of the trickiest cuts you can do with a circular saw, so practice on some scrap wood if you're not experienced with plunge cuts. Now move the saw forward to the other fillet and stop. Do all of your plunge cuts the same way. The good news is that since your fillets are all still intact, your plywood will stay in one piece while you work.

Once all straight cuts are made with the circular saw, you can cut out all of the fillets with a jig saw (aka sabre saw). Because the two saws have different blade thicknesses, they remove a different amount of wood (kerf). This means you'll have to do some clean-up on your fillets. I used the end of a stationary belt sander to sweeten up the interior fillets and exterior radii. You can see the before and after in the last two pics.

Cutting Out Parts & Sanding: 2 hours

Step 3: Details: Slots I

Now that the parts have been rough cut out, it's time to add some of the details that make it go together. The first step is to notch the seat supports for the thickness of the seats. You could just ASSume that the plywood is 3/4" thick, but it's probably 23/32" thick. So instead of measuring and getting yourself in trouble, just use a piece of scrap to determine the thickness. Another plunge cut cuts out most of the notch. Then finish up with a hand or jig saw.

NOTE: In my haste to make progress, I forgot to tape the first plunge cut on the seat support, so you can see what a difference it makes.

I laid the seat support on the seat to make my layout marks, once again no measuring required. There's a notch in the seat support, but I'm going to wait until further in the build to make those to verify their location/depth.

The pull saw made quick work of cutting right on the line to make sure the half lap joint fits. You can use a jig saw to liberate the waste, but I used a chisel. Pop the support into the seat and voila, your first sub-assembly! Flip the seat over and check out the joint.

The sides and top support get a similar notch. Now for the first time, you can slip your picnic table together to get an idea of what it's going to look like!

I'm really happy with the joints. They slip together easily, but hold together and the sub-assembly is surprisingly stable. There's very little racking of the table, even without the seats in place or spacers under the table top.

Slots I: 1 hour

Step 4: Details: Slots II

Next is cutting all the rest of the slots for the half lap slots. Once again, I used a piece of scrap to determine how wide the slots should be. I also used the previously cut out seats to determine how deep the slots should go. Then I cut out the slot and rounded over the corner with a rasp. That's to keep it from just breaking off.

I changed the depth of the slots in the seat supports. I wanted a stronger connection, so I made the slot 3" deep on the table side and cut that out. Then I used the support itself to figure out how deep to make the corresponding slot. To do this, slide the support into the table side backwards and make a mark at the edge of the plywood. This will make the second slot the perfect depth so that the support sits flush then the joint is assembled.

Slots II: 1 hour

Step 5: Details: Holes

One of the features on the plans is cutouts for handles on the larger parts. This also allegedly helps you carry the whole thing bundled together if you make the clips in the plans.

Making these cutouts is actually a little tricky to do well. First make your layout marks. I'm using a 2-1/2" hole saw because I wanted the large 1-1/4" radius to match the radii on the rest of the table. I chose to make the holes the size of those two circles tangent to each other for aesthetics and practicality. The handle shown is in the middle of the table top, leaving over an inch of plywood for strength. Start your hole saw on the center marks and drill only deep enough for the drill bit to poke through. Do not drill the hole saw all the way through! It will create a huge tear-out disaster. Now flip the board and use the center holes that poked through as your starter and finish drilling the hole saw from this side all the way through. Remove the plug from the hole saw and drill the other hole the same way. NOTE: You can start all holes on one side, then finish them on the other to reduce flipping.

Now take a straight edge and draw two lines tangent to the edges of the holes, parallel with the edge of the board. Using a jig saw, cut on the lines. Use a wood file to sweeten up the lines on both sides. I put one handle cutout in the middle of the top and two on each table side, so five cutouts in all. None of the other parts were large/heavy enough to justify a cutout.

Holes: 1.5 hours

Step 6: Test Fit & Sit!

Now that all of the slots are cut, it's time for another test fit! The parts all fit perfectly together and the table is even more stable with the seat supports locked in place. I immediately was able to slide right in and take a seat. I'm 6'2" and 200 pounds and not only is the table comfy, but felt rock-solid. My wife sat on the other side and that made it even more stable. She was a bit dubious at first, but after seeing it all put together and sitting on it, she thinks it's very cute and was very happy with the stability.

It was time for me to clean up and put the table away for the day. It was actually a little difficult to disassemble, the pieces were so locked together. I'll wait until I'm done rounding over the edges and sanding and see how it feels.

Assemble & Disassemble: <5 minutes

EDIT: The next day, I found out why the table had been difficult to disassemble. In my haste to do a test fit with the freshly cut slots, the sharp edges bound up a little bit. Upon disassembly, some of the plywood tore out. Most of this was fixed when I used a router to ease the edges, but it was a lesson learned, which now you can avoid.

Step 7: Round Over All the Edges

The next step is to round over all the edges to make the table more user-friendly. Since the plywood is nominally 3/4", you could technically use a 3/8" round over bit. But I find that if you use a bit that's half the thickness, then when you are rounding over the second side, your bearing is riding on the first side's round over, which can be problematic. With that in mind, I used a 3/16" round over bit. Also, I used my 3-1/4" Hp router, but you can use a much less expensive laminate trimmer. Actually, you could do a pretty good job easing the edges with a hand sanding block with some 80 grit paper.

If you're using a router, set the router bit corner flush with the bottom plate. This will give you a smooth, round edge. For interior cutouts go clockwise, for exterior go counter-clockwise. This is a little confusing but it has to do with the rotation of the bit. I remember this by OUT is in cOUnTer-clockwise.

For the mating slots, I didn't want to run the risk of a round over causing too much slop in the joint, so I just chamfered the edge with a sanding block.

You can see how nice the finished rounded over parts look and they're much more comfortable to handle.

Rounding all edges: 3 hours

Step 8: The Finish Line

I was anxious to try out our new table, so on a beautiful Sunday afternoon, we loaded the picnic table into our little wagon and setup camp in the park. As predicted, all of the park tables were taken, but not a problem for us!

With the edges rounded over, the table goes together and takes apart much more easily. We all sat there and had a snack while people walking by were checking out our little setup.

I used penetrating epoxy on the feet and coated the entire table with regular epoxy to make it waterproof both above and below.

This table is the perfect compromise between actually being a usable table and being portable enough to take anywhere. At around 10 hours total, this would be a long single day project, but is very doable over a weekend. I had planned ahead and already bought the plywood after work, so I was able to start right in on Saturday morning. If you buy plywood ahead of time, you're probably going to want to lean it up against a wall somewhere. Make sure you don't leave it there for long as it will bow the plywood slightly.

Once again, if you liked my Instructable, please vote for me for the Flat Pack Contest by clicking the ribbon icon at the top of the page.

Total Time (not counting finishing): 10 hours

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35 Discussions


3 years ago

@EcoExpatMike - Not a copy, my take on a classic. I didn't say I came up with the concept, I just wanted to illustrate the techniques I used in detail with a much better set of plans (see flat_pack_picnic_table_improved.pdf in step 2).

@teddibear1 - Yeah, this project definitely has that 60's feel to it. You obviously don't need a CNC machine to cut out these simple parts, I just meant that while researching flat-pack furniture one night, I found these plans. We've already used it 3 weekends in a row!

@ggallen103 - Modifying the structure to that extent would probably mean it would no longer fit within a single sheet of plywood. Also, it would have to be a pretty small umbrella. Although the table is very stable, it's very light, so wouldn't be a good base for an umbrella of any size/weight, especially if it was windy. But hey, go for it. You can choose to opt out of the umbrella thing once you've built it and see for yourself.

1 reply

Reply 3 years ago

I figured it take an extra sheet. I would bank on it anyway - those are pretty close tolerances, and I know I will mess up a cut or two!

I don't know - a sheet of plywood (3/4") is fairly heavy - if you put a small c-clamp underneath to clamp onto the umbrella pole to hold it in place. Not sure if the wind would be able to pick up the entire table, especially if it has that third support. We currently fill bags with sand, and secure them to the umbrella post - and that handles most of the minor winds - Now if your on the beach during a hurricane - I think losing your umbrella is the least of your concerns!!


Reply 7 days ago

Start with only the nose of the base plate touching the workpiece. Retract the guard and pull the trigger. Once blade is up to speed slowly push the saw flat and drive the blade into the work piece. Finish your cut along your line.



6 weeks ago on Step 8

Any idea where I could buy one already made and if not maybe purchase full size plans for this table. Thank you


Reply 1 year ago

It's primarily kid-sized, but my 5'6" wife and I have sat at it many times for dinners in the park. It's a bit on the small size for my 6'2" frame, but I can sit at it no problem.


Reply 1 year ago

I built this for my daughter a few years ago. It is our backyard table at the moment, because we are renting and have needed to move for work. It works for adults. We've had 4 and 2 kids at one point, and the other dad is even 6', though it admittedly is on the low side. Water seeped into my first top, so I replaced it with a larger size.


Reply 1 year ago

Because the size is quite restrictive. I find this size is good for 6 beaver cubs or 4 cubs & 4 scouts (obviously depending on the size of the scouts!).

I ended up making some larger versions for the pack leaders. Each table top was half a sheet of ply (so 4' x 4'). I enlarged the legs to accommodate adults so had to cut them from a fresh piece (but I got extra pieces out of each sheet anyway).

For the youngsters, I used the thick ply to make the legs and top and used a thinner ply to make the three crossmembers (one for the top and one for each seat) as well as the seats themselves. The thinner ply is fine to support the weight as it has more strength vertically


Reply 1 year ago

I cut out 4 pieces from the scrap plywood, flipped the table upside and glued the blocks in place to force the underbody into the proper, square, centered orientation. During assembly, the top just clicks into place.


Reply 1 year ago

Lay the top good side down, place the completed legs and cross member on top & centralise. Place offcuts at either end to each side of the central crossmember. Glue and screw into place.

The table top always now has a top and underside. Mine's survived almost 20 years of beavers, cubs and scouts along with associated transport to and from campsites.


Reply 3 years ago

I watched a video at the bottom. Looks like the guy made a cross, laid flat, on the bottom side. Didn't look like an elbow rester for sure. I'd have to look into a more stable solution. Kids are rough!


Reply 3 years ago

Thanks, I don't see a video in that instructable, but I agree, would need something more sturdy. I was thinking maybe a strap system that runs through slots to hold it on. I've designed and made a few one panel lay flat systems (a couple of desks and some shelves), so the genre is near and dear, but it just seemed like something was missing in this one.


1 year ago

Very cool... any idea of a weight limit that this would support? I assume 4 adults or 6 small children would be about the limit on this thing.

1 reply

Reply 1 year ago

You can definitely sit 4-6 adults at this table with no problem. The 3/4" plywood is very strong. The limiting factor is just the size. As far as weight on the top, I wouldn't stand on it, but it would probably support my 200#.


1 year ago

I made one for our daughter/family a few years ago, and added a couple tweaks that we like. When using plywood, I commonly rip a 1by into thin (1/8" to 1/4") strip for edge banding. Adds a cleaner look IMO for minimal cost/effort.

The original seats and table top got water damaged over the years. so I replaced the top with a 5' wide piece of exterior birch ply, and the seats out of 5' long cedar fence slats jointed together a little wider than the original design. Added a 1" wide strip on the bottom edge all around and finished with a strip from another fence slat, so the table looks more substantial now. The edging makes for cleaner rounder and the cedar gives it a nice appearance too IMO.


1 year ago

I made a load of these many years ago for my boys cub group, one of the leaders had the plans in a (very old) woodwork mag.

Those plans also included making a holder/carrier out of one of the leftover scraps. Everything but the top could be slipped onto this, making carrying a tad easier.

The original plans used a jigsaw - you sometimes get breakout if you don't use the right blade or push it too hard.

This table is really OK for kids

As I made each table, I marked the underside of each piece with a permanent marker to keep all the bits together. (The whole thing was varnished afterwards).

I made some tables for adults - one sheet of ply made 2 table tops, the rest of the pattern I enlarged to suit.

Handy hint #1 - when buying the sheets, if the DiY shed offers free cutting, ask them to cut some of the sheets down a bit where possible (you can see a few straight cuts on the plans.).

#2 - Use the thicker (and dearer) ply to construct the legs and table top, the seats and cross braces can be made of a thinner ply - since the seat is supported by a cross brace and all cross braces are vertical. I added a third locating lug to the seat and table cross braces

I used some of the offcuts to create little feet for use on softer grass.

The group loved them so much, I even made up some tables for working on - washing up, veg prep, even one to hold the gas urn.

Best thing about these is that anything breaks, it's easy to repair.

Forgot to add. The scout group owns the building & hires it out to a preschool during the day. Having to pack everything away at the end of each day is no fun & those folding tables can be a little unsteady so the playgroup asked me if I'd make some for them. I was also able to use my router to cut rebates into each top to accommodate paint trays, hold colouring pens (stop them rolling onto the floor) etc. Apparently, the young kids just love to build/dismantle 'their' tables - I was able to glue large pics of their fave characters onto each table before finishing with a few coats of clear varnish.

Carpenter Guy

3 years ago

Congratulations on the win!!!