How to Fix Broken Headphone Jack !





Introduction: How to Fix Broken Headphone Jack !

About: Hi, I'm Nemeen, Electronics Enthusiast! I have seen a huge decline in electronics hobbyist in past few years. I started this channel in order to inspire you to create. Hopefully, you will find something tha...

Note : I know many of you will say that's PLUG and not the JACK. Not technical people generally refer it as a jack ! and my videos and Instructables are for everyone so just chill out and enjoy :)
Many of us love music, especially on earphones! but the problem is rough usage and broken headphone jack. Have you ever came across such problem? Then I can show you how to fix it ! so let's get started

Step 1: Watch the Video !

Click Here to watch it

If you are lazy and don't want to read all stuff you can watch my video! And it is much easier.

Step 2: Lets Start

So the very first thing grab the broken pair of earphones and cut the wire just above the broken area. Then use something like a box cutter or xacto knife and remove the rubber on top of jack. After the if you have plastic on the jack remove it using pliers.

Step 3: Check Jack

Ones you have the Jack we need to check if it is still functional we will use multimeter`s continuity function for that. Mine is still fine! If yours is not you need to order new one



Step 4: Clean Jack and Prepare Wires

Now clean the jack and remove the wires from jack using soldering iron. Now take other end of the cable and remove the outer rubber. You will see 4 Wires

Copper is for GND

Green is for Right

Blue is for Microphone

Red is for Left.

Step 5: Soldering

For Soldering the wires here is the schematic solder it and you are done

Step 6: Check Jack Again!

Now plug the jack and check if it is working mine is working so we can proceed ahead. if yours didn't work check if soldering is done properly if not then you have to open the earbud and check if the manufacturer has changed the wiring!

Step 7: Final

So finally we have fixed it but we can't use it like that it will break in few hours so we can use heat shrinking tube to cover it!

Step 8: Thank You !

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43 Discussions


6 months ago

I cannot support a stereotypical error on the part of "the rest of us" The object of an instructable is to "instruct" or educate. Accepting the incorrect nomenclature, calling it a Jack and not a Plug is inexcusable. IT IS A PLUG, instruct "the rest of us" and promote correct nomenclature.

1 reply

Except you wouldn't be searching with those terms, cause you wouldn't know them! So he made a choice and used the layman's name of the item, people can then find his article, read it, and they'll immediately see the part where he says it's not actually a jack. Then, if they care, they can search for the correct term. His ible is on fixing an electronic part, not on proper terminology, so he wrote this accordingly in a manner that will attract the largest number of readers.

I think there are relevant points from both sides regarding the proper term usage (and the point of Instructables, is to instruct, to teach) but the part that kept hanging me up was when you (for instance) mention to "check the jack" I kept thinking I should check the (actual) Jack (not the plug). Kinda confusing. Otherwise nice Instructable (-ish)

The part you describe is the plug, rather than the jack. The jack is the receptacle that the plug inserts into. Otherwise a useful Instructable.

2 replies

Yeah I know but non technical people refer it as Jack so some sort of clickbate :P

I use the words "plug" and "port", exclusively. I've seen words like "jack" used both ways, and that is confusing. We all know what a plug is; every appliance has one. Port? well that's where ships come in; "socket" would have been a better word for port or jack, since we are dealing with electrical/electronic stuff. Otherwise, thanks for putting up the Instructable, Nematic.

Good instructable. I only needed to use heat shrink tubing to restore my plug to good health. Thanks for the details.


6 months ago

This is great diy stuff, but unfortunately this out of most people’s ability range or would be hesitant to do. On another note, when using the shrink tubing one could double or triple up on the shrink tubing for added support. Or use a plastic dip material they use on plier handles etc, this very durable. This certainly is a good fix on original Apple lines because of replacement costs. Thanks for the tip

If possible, I'd rather replace the plug with a brand new one, preferably from Neutrik (if a company has a proven track record in professional audio industry, I buy that!). I don't know if they have 4-contact version though; regular TRS is easy to get.


1 year ago

Nice instructable. As another commenter noted, "tin" the bare wire ends with solder before trying to attach them to the 4 tiny lugs. And notice Nematic!'s *very* quick and light touch with the soldering iron. He makes this look easy, but try it yourself and you'll appreciate his technique!

I have never (in 50+ years) seen the sleeve of a jack used for anything but ground. In your schematic you identify this as the mic connector. Are you sure this is correct?

1 reply

different manufacturer change the connections for some odd reason but now a days I have seen this connection being followed

I sometimes use hot glue to bulk up the connector and protect the wires. You can put heat shrink over it.

To protect the wire, I recommend two or three layers of heat shrink in successively shorter lengths and larger diameters to create a rat-tail grommet.

But slide the smaller heatshrink up the wire BEFORE you solder, or it won't go over the plug.

1 reply

Yep I did it later coz showing same thing again and again in video will make audience bore

cut the old plug with broken part of wire.

solder new plug.


plugs are dirt cheap. there is too much effort to mess with old plug.

1 reply

Yeah but if you can savage one it better in my contry they are bit expensive

Great instructable :-)

Tip: I secure the cable with sewingthread windings as reinforcement and epoxy, then shrink tube and cap / cover

1 reply

Next time it breaks it would be difficult to get through the epoxy that's why I used heat shrinking tube

At we very frequently fix headphones with around 90% success rate but more usually with a replacement plug which you can get quite cheaply. Most replacements are bulkier than the original though, and make sure it's got a cable clamp or it won't last long at all. You need to use the continuity tester to see which colour wire goes to which jack contact as the wire colours in step 4 aren't universal.

An interesting idea to use heat shrink sleeving, but it may not stop the connections from breaking if the lead is given a yank. I'd prefer to use Sugru (see Sugru is also good for protecting the lead when the outer sheath starts to fail but before the earphones stop working.

The wire can be a little tricky to solder. First of all, twist the strands together to stop them fraying, then feed the twisted bundle into a blob of molten solder on the tip of your iron. Withdraw and repeat until the wire is tinned. The trouble with using a lighter is that you have little control of the length of wire that is bared of insulation.