How to Upgrade CR-10 From Single Extr0der to Dual V6 Extruders With Bltouch?

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This is meant for people who had some experience with electronics and they know the risk of modifying your printer. It can be used for any 3D Printer but I will be focusing on the CR-10.

The tutorial will start by explaining the hardware parts and at the end, the software installation (Marlin), plus some problems and solutions through the tutorial.

Enjoy.

If you are looking for the Marlin file click he re

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Step 1: Introduction

Please read everything before you attend this. You are responsible for any changes you make to your printer and this hack should be done by someone who knows the dangers of electricity work.

Hi everyone, for the past month I was trying to find sources where I can make my Cr-10 print with dual extrusion. However, there is a lack of information on the subject. After all the research I was able to print my first printing with two nozzles, and now that is working I would like to share my work.

This project may take a whole day or a few hours depending on your skills, but I will make sure I put every detail to make it easier for you. I believe the first part of the project is to know how much money and which part you are going to need.

So let get going.

Step 2: Parts

These are the parts that you will need for the upgrade and I add it an extra board. In my opinion, I would choose MKS instead of GT2560 board but these two boards would do the job. I use GT2560 and then went to MKS after I could not make the LCD work and when the LCD did not work with MKS, I knew it was something else. But I find the problem and both of them are really good for dual extrusion.

Step 3: 3D Prints Parts

The rest of the parts are going to be print it with your

CR-10, here is the link:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2777673

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2853340 BY Robert Schrade

Just make sure you print these files before you start disassembling your printer.

I made a diagram explaining how to put all the 3d part together.

Step 4: 2nd Extruder Holder

For this one is going to be tricky, if you don't have dual z-axis then you are going to struggle a little, I have seen people putting the second extruder next to the other one but I have not try that before. I use a motor mount bracket and hold the bracket with a single screw from the hole that is left in the z-axis bracket. I had to use a drill in order to make a hole in the bracket for the wheel screw could pass through, and happily, the screw is not long enough to poke the stepper motor. This is not the fanciest way to do it but the motor does not move from its place and it does the job, but if someone has a better solution I open for ideas.

Step 5: Cable Managment

Here is a diagram of the CR-10 before any modifications. There is going to be some modification that you will need to do to the cable to connect it to the new board so beware.

Step 6: GT2560 Board Connections

Now most of the cables are going to unplug and plug, but the

only a few that may need to change for the board connection.

Step 7: MKS Gen 1.4

For the MKS is going to be the same, but with some differences in connections. Just follow the board's pictures, and you will be fine.

Step 8: Hot Ends Fans

The 12 volts fans that cool down the board and the hot ends do not have a plug for the board, which means you will need to solder female pins for the GT2560 board or the KMS Gen 1.4 . This fans will cool down the board and the hot ends. TheGT 2560 board comes with the best labels that I have seen, KMS not so good, but will guide you on both of them.

  • if you flip the board you can see where the pins need to go. Red is + and Black is -.
  • For the Controllable Fan cable from the CR-10, you just need to plug it in the PWM Fan in the GT2560. This will allow controlling the fans that will cooldown the print.
  • For MKS just cut the cables and connect them where the fan connection is located on the board:

    Red is + and Black is -

    .

Step 9: Heaters and Sensors

  • Both of them are really forward, the only you need to know is the "Heater 0" is the first heater and is going to be the left one and "heater 1" is the second heater and is going to be the right one.
  • For the sensors, you are going to plug them in the X-min, Y-min & Z-min.
    • For MKS, you will do the same, but because this one has three connections for the endstops, you will need to use two of them. The only ones you need are the "s" and "-", you may need to modify the cable connection in order to connect right. I just shave one of the plastics that stick out of the connector.

The only ones you need for the endstops sensors are "s" and "-". Do not use "+" the motors will not move correctly if you do that.

Step 10: Stepper Motors, Drivers and Endstops

  • The stepper motors are plugged and play. The only one that will give you some trouble is the second extruder.
    • For this part, you may need to look at the first extruder and see which cables are needed it for the stepper motor, we only need 4, and the stepper motor uses 6. Just grab the wires that are only need it (check picture)
  • The stepper driver direction matters, you want to keep the voltage away from the connectors
  • For the MKS, holds the voltage screw on the left side or the power connection side.
  • The Stepper Drivers that I like and they are the same as the CR-10 are this make sure you are using 1/16 per step to be in order with the Marlin firmware.
    • To check this type the name of the stepper driver micro stepping online and it will tell you how far can the stepper go, some of them can go as far as 1/32. More than that is not necessary.
    • For the A4988 you can check this link. The pins location will be located on the board between the two eight pins where you put the stepper driver, they are removable, but for this tutorial, you leave them there because the original CR-10 uses 1/16 micro stepping.
  • The end tops are plugged and play, make sure you are putting the end stops on the right axis, or you will have the motor moving a few millimeters everytime away from the axis.

If you have any question you can check their website:

GT2560

MKS Gen 1.4

Step 11: The Power Supply and Hot Bed

  • This one is simple, just connect the cables that you remove from the CR-10 that came from the power supply and put them on the new board.
    • For the GT2560, you can see at the back which one is positive and which one is negative.
    • For the MKS, is really hard to see which one is positive and which one is negative. From the picture the one on the top is positive, and the one on the bottom is negative.
  • Is essential, for the heat bed you have a black and red cable that connects to a switch which allows for higher voltage. Make sure you put the wire on the right polarity, Negative "-" and Positive "+."
    • You want to make sure you connect the positive with the positive and the negative with the negative.
      • For the GT2560, you can check the board for the positive (red) and negative (black). the top one is negative, and the bottom one is positive.

Step 12: Marlin Firmware

I basically follow this steps from this website:

Link

The only changes I made are this:

  • I download the latest firmware 1.1.8
  • Line (122) For GT2560 choose motherboard 7 for the MKS motherboard 47
  • Line (290) Change from 0 to 1
  • Line (329) Change from 275 to 300
  • from 494 to 501 just leave everything in "false"
  • Line (215) change it to:
    • #define HOTEND_OFFSET_X {0.0, 23} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
    • this will tell the printer to offset the second extruder 23 mmm from the home point (first hot end)
  • #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 30 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
    #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 25 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]

For the people who don't like to learn the beauty of Marlin here is the li nk for the files, just make sure you use the latest Arduino software or you may get errors.

Step 13: LCD Connection

For some reason, there is a problem with the LCD connection cables, it works great with the smaller lcd but the full RepRap LCD it seems to not work.

For me, I had to flip the connections 180 degrees in order to get the screen to work.

I grind the middle piece of plastic that keeps the cable from going the opposite direction. Just grind and flip the cables closer to the board and leave the one in the LCD alone.

After that hack, the screen will work without a problem.

Some errors that I had in the past:
GT2560 does not upload the file: Remove drivers, for some reason the board won't accept the firmware if the board or the LCD is connected.

LCD make some noise but it won't turn on or show display: Flip the connections, you may need to remove the tip of plastic in order to flip the connections. Do not swap the EXP1 with EXP2, just flip it clockwise.

Step 14: Stepper Motor Voltage

The voltage is something you will need to play with, most of the time the voltage is too high and you can hear the grinding noise from the motors or the voltage is not strong enough to pull the filament or the bed.

You will need to have the printer turn on at this time, just make sure the flat screw does not touch anything but the voltage screw.

  • You need to move the voltage from the stepper driver in order to get the best performance.
    • first, turning clockwise will reduce the voltage
    • you start by homing the printer
    • then you make any axis move 100 mm
      • if you hear any grind sounds, lower the voltage, if the motor is skipping then add some voltage
      • the trick is to not hear the grinding noise but not at the same time have enough force for the movement.
    • for the extruder, you will need to add heat to the hotends and extrude 100 mm of filament
      • if you hear it skip, then add more voltage, if you hear the motor grind too much then lower the voltage
    • Note: You can use a multimeter in order to check the voltage once you are done. The way you check it is by putting the multimeter in DC Voltage and connect negative cable to the negative board screw and the positive on the screw from the stepper motor.

Step 15: Simplify 3D Profile

Here is the setting for simplify 3d that I use on my printer. Unfortunate I have not use Cura before, but I'm sure there are enough tutorials explaining how to use dual extrusion with different slicers.

Here is this Youtube video that explains how to use it with Cura and Simplify 3D with dual extrusion.

Step 16: BL-Touch Setup

For bltouch script steps, I will send you to a YouTube link. The main thing you will need to be careful is the cables, they need to be in the right connection. White and black should be in the same way as the picture above or bltouch won't work. You can download the Marlin file with bltouch setting add it, the only thing you need to do is uploading it to your board.

Note: I have not done this with a GT2560, right now is just the MKS and it works just fine but I check this website and there are no changes in the Marlin firmware but check this website link

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    46 Discussions

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    paul1212

    7 weeks ago

    great work, but how did you add a second Z axis Stepper to the mks controller, there are only 5 ports right, and your using 6 steppers.
    Thank you

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    DaleV34

    Question 5 months ago on Step 8

    Hiya,
    Very impressed and very inspired to try.
    Ok, with the fans on the MK board, does that mean we cut the ends of and place them all in the fan connectors on the side of the board?

    Cheers.

    Dale

    2 answers
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    JaimeF11DaleV34

    Answer 5 months ago

    That is correct, the MKS board does not have pins for the fan. Just remember the Fan connector is for the Control Fans (the ones that can turn on and off with the gcode) if you want to cool down the hotend radiator you should connect the cable in the 12 V connection which has pins.

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    BlackInfinity

    Tip 5 months ago

    Hi there.
    I believe that you modeled it so the plastic on the mount would directly hit the switch, since it completely goes over the X axis pulley cage. That's a smart idea, but maybe an alternative version with the ABL on the right side (a real bit ahead so you don't hit the 2 screws on the tensioner) would be better to reduce the wasted distance.

    The internal hole for the ABL is oversized, it could be a little smaller.
    The biggest issue that make this mount unusable is the hole for the left screw of the carriage for the wheel is missing so it won't touch the carriage. I drilled it to make it fit.
    The other problem here is the ABL mount is WAY too high. The head of the ABL should be around 2mm higher than the nozzle, whereas with this mount, even at the max extension, it is around 5 mm. You should modifiy this and put the abl arm as low as you can.

    About the fan adapter, the holes are too much on the margin that even though I tried to print it with a 0.4 line width and 0.12 layer height, the margins are completely skipped.

    The fan holder.stl is corrupted and gives issues when sliced (wrong geometries). I fixed it just loading and saving it again it using 3d builder, and it slices good now. But still, even this model had problems with missing margins where the fan screws should fit, so this should be corrected too.

    About the mount where the part cooling fans are attached, there is an issue with the nyloc nut slot dimension. The holes are so large that screwing the screw in the nut is impossible as the nut will just rotate. So the lenght of the hole should be lower than the hexagon external diameter, and just a bit bigger than the distance between 2 parallel faces on the nut, so it just slides in without spinning.
    This also applies to the nut holes for the adjusting screw.

    I hope those feedback will show to be helpful. :)

    20190331_153334.jpg20190331_153557.jpgfan adapter.jpg20190406_154632.jpg20190406_162145.jpg
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    pcbwiz

    5 months ago

    Great topic, thank you for sharing

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    BlackInfinity

    Question 6 months ago

    This is useful. The problem is I want to use a capacitive ABL (like ezabl) and not a BL Touch. Would it be possible to implement a support for it on the mount please?

    2 answers
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    JaimeF11BlackInfinity

    Answer 6 months ago

    Sure, but I will need the sensor in a 3d file: sketchup, STL, obj, you named. This way I will know where to add it at the mount. If you can find or make the sensor, I will design it

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    BlackInfinityJaimeF11

    Reply 6 months ago

    Hi there. I edited an image with all the quotes needed.

    sensor.png
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    LGProspects

    Question 8 months ago

    I have a very large gap between my bed and the extruders. I had these v6 clones on hand is there a large variation in overall length on these things?

    IMG_20181223_144923.jpgIMG_20181223_144931.jpg
    6 answers
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    JaimeF11LGProspects

    Answer 7 months ago

    Check thingiverse for 1mm and 2mm lower. if you need it to be lower, you can stretch the springs with two pliers (not to much) just enough to give the extra mm that you need. most of the time when we tight the bed, the springs shrinks with heat and the tightness

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    LGProspectsJaimeF11

    Reply 7 months ago

    Working great! Now to hook up the other extruder. Thanks!

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    JaimeF11LGProspects

    Answer 8 months ago

    The bed is too low, try to loose the screws in order to bring the bed up,. The metals that hold the wheels together at the z axis is touching the z motors and that as far it goes, if you can't bring the bed higher just reply me and I will add a lower hotend holder

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    LGProspectsJaimeF11

    Reply 8 months ago

    Jamie a lower hotend holder would do the trick! My bed doesn't raise up much more than it is now.

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    JaimeF11LGProspects

    Reply 8 months ago

    Sorry for taking so long. I have a question. How low ( in mm) you need the hot end?

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    LGProspectsJaimeF11

    Reply 7 months ago

    No problem! It looks like it is 1mm difference.

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    JordiP2

    Question 7 months ago on Step 16

    GRACIAS POR TU TRABAJO, Te parece que tu idea puede funcionar con una Ender 3 pro? Por lo que veo en las fotografias y en su pagina web, tienen similares mecanicas.Gracias

    1 answer
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    JaimeF11JordiP2

    Reply 7 months ago

    Porsupuesto. Ender 3 y CR-10 completamente igual en el "hotend bracket".

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    MaxK88

    7 months ago

    I just started the upgrade process, and after replacing the board, and hooking up the connections I powered the board up. The power supply is set at 115V, but the board would not power up. When I switched to supply to 230V the board powered right up.. Being that I live in the US, and the outlets supply 120V, should I be worried about the board being supplied too much voltage?
    Thanks for any help that you guys can give..
    1 reply
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    JaimeF11MaxK88

    Reply 7 months ago

    Disconect the board from the power supply first. Then get a multimeter and check you are getting 12v when is in 110 v if you dont get energy it means the power supply is not working properly and you should returned or get a new one. If you dont have a multimeter use a 12 v led light in order to test the power supply.