3D Anaglyph Camera Attachment!




About: Always in search of fun ways to maximize leisure time.

This device lets you take 3D anaglyph photos and movies with an ordinary camera. The parts cost about $30. It's pretty simple to build and you don't need any special software or camera equipment. Please let me know if you have any improvements on this design.

Newsflash! The photos below show a slide viewer that allows you to view a single slide with both eyes. It might have similar optics to the device in this Instructable. I suggest trying the following:

1. order a slide viewer on e-bay for $10-20.
2. cut the viewer in half along the slot for the slide.
3. cover the eye holes with the red and blue colored filters.
4. put your camera where the slide goes and take a photo.

Please let me know if this works.

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Step 1: Before You Start...

Before you start, take a look at the photos on the following website to get an idea of the steps. www.gibbondesign.com/anaglyph/index.htm

Step 2: Gather the Supplies.

+ 3D viewing glasses (I used the cyan and red glasses from American Paper Optics). You can also make your own with the filter material below.
+ Black mat board from an art store.
+ Red filter material that matches the filters on the 3D glasses (Roscolux #26 matches typical stock glasses available at a stage lighting store)
+ Cyan (blue) filter material that matches the filters on the 3D glasses (Lee #354 matches the cyan filters on most stock glasses available at a stage lighting store)
+ Some 5mm or 1/4" fiberboard.
+ Beamsplitter (50%) 76x102x3mm (Anchor Optical B27122)
+ Mirror 76x114x3mm (Anchor Optical B20850)
+ Four matching (76mm) posts (optional)
+ A sharp utility knife

If the optics listed above aren't available, try to purchase optics with similar dimensions. Anchor Optics is a cheap source:
Beamsplitters (find a beamsplitter about a 50/50 reflection/transmission ratio)
Try to find a mirror with a matching height to the beamsplitter:
You would need to adjust the mirror and beamsplitter holder to fit the new dimensions (i.e. the grooves should accommodate the thickness and the height and width might change). If you make one with different optics, please let me know how it works.

Step 3: Print Template

Print the template from www.gibbondesign.com/anaglyph.pdf onto a sheet of A4 size paper (you can also print it on 8.5" x 11" paper and scale it to the correct size using the dimensions on the paper)

Step 4: Use This Template to Cut the Walls Out the Mat Board. I Traced the Pattern on the Mat Board First and Used a Ruler and Utility Knife to Cut the Pieces.

Step 5: Tape the Filter Material to the Rectangular Windows. the Red Filter Is for the Large Window.

Step 6: Cut the Top and Bottom Panels

Tape the template (double sided tape works well) for the inner and outer boards on the fiberboard and use a jigsaw to cut these pieces. You can use a sander to get rid of the jagged edges. Use glue or double sided tape to stick the inner and outer boards together. Place the mirror and beamsplitter in the groves on the inner board while the glue or tape is setting.

Step 7: Cut Standoffs (optional Step for a Stronger Device)

If you want a sturdier device, you can place 76mm standoffs between the fiberboard pieces. The cross hairs on the template should be used to mark the holes for the standoffs (I used a 4mm drill with M4 screws).

Step 8: Assembly Time!

Now it's time for the assembly. Position the mirror and beamsplitter between the top and bottom fiberboard panels so that they are sitting in the slots. If you used a first surface mirror (recommended), make sure the reflective side is facing the beamsplitter (you can test this by placing your finger against the glass; the side that doesn't give you a double image is the reflective side).

Step 9: Tape the Walls in Place

Position the wall panels around the assembly. Tape the top and bottom of the wall panels to the fiberboard panels. Congratulations! You're done.

Step 10: Take Some Photos

Now it's time to take some photos. I find it best to turn off the flash and zoom in as close as possible. Then put the camera lens through the hole and shoot. Make sure you have a LOT of natural light.

Step 11: Hints? Next Steps? Share Photos?

I was able to shoot digital photos and video and view the images on computer and prints. Good Luck!

Step 12: What's Going On?

The mirror and beamsplitter are about 2.5" apart. That's an average distance between an adult's eyes. The mirror is reflecting what your right eye would see into the photo. The beamsplitter reflects 50% of what's in front of it and let's 50% through to the camera lens, so you get equal amount of the red and blue images.

The filters are allowing the red part of the spectrum into the part of the photo that your right eye would be seeing and the blue filter is only allowing the blue light into the part of the photo that your left eye would see. When you view the photo, you don't want your right eye to see the left eye (blue) image, so you erase it by placing the same blue filter in front.



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    84 Discussions


    6 years ago on Introduction

    I just ordered the slide viewer from the article and in the process I learned that they, Sawyers, are apparently the *original* maker of the ViewMaster viewers. Ultra cool, I learn something new every day. Now to wait for my viewer....


    6 years ago on Step 4

    1) about how much mat board do i need?
    2) Do i have to change the size of the red and cyan panels if my beamsplitter and mirrors are smaller than yours


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Awesome Work gibbon!
    Check This Similiar Project out!! A 3d camera made with a Beagleboard! SUPER COOL! :D


    Reply 10 years ago on Introduction

    Hi Chris, I do have a working slide viewer (see images). It was much easier to build but the mirrors are smaller so it only works well on brightly lit objects. I'll post another Instructable soon. Gibbon


    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    after reading this, i searched for ages for a slide viewer, one came up on ebay, the exact same one... am 90% there, just need the make the cuts neater and fit the colours, am gonna be using it on a DSLR so am thinking of fitting a filter ring to it so it will attach easier


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

     Can you take a picture of the inner structure of the slide viewer, that way we can thy to replicate it on a bigger scale to make make it more functional.

    Plus i'm having a hard time finding a slide viewer li the one you have :3


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    This is awesome! Do you have any sample images taken with the slide viewer version? Do you use a lens or try to align the bare sensor with the focal plane?


    Reply 10 years ago on Introduction

    Hey Gibbon, Could you post on here when you do post that new instructable, I'm very interested!, thank-you very much. Chris


    8 years ago on Introduction

    Couldn't you do just a polarized thing for viewing on 3d tv with no red blue, just the images?

    1 reply

    8 years ago on Step 12

    it seems that one of the image will be further away by the measured distance between the two mirrors. A lens should be added to adjust for the distance to correct the image size inaccuracy.


    9 years ago on Introduction

    there is a way to do this easily with just word and any picture you want. ill post an instructable if anyone is interested

    3 replies

    9 years ago on Introduction

     I saw your Anaglyph foto's, but the thing was that dissapointed me is that it is poppin-in instead of poppin-out. It would be much cooler when it pops-out. 

    2 replies

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Try turning your glasses around and see if it doesn't make the image look right. You might be getting the right eye / left eye signals crossed.


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    I had to agree with you when i saw the image in 3d glasses