How to Make a Single Color Survival Bracelet/paracord Bracelet With Buckle

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About: I went to school for Architectural Engineering for two years and ended up getting a degree in culinary arts (long story). I have great passion in crafting, fixing, or building stuff!!! Whether it's wood work...

Throughout this tutorial I will be showing you how to make the Single Color Baby Cobra Survival Bracelet. What does that mean! Well on my website over at www.ParaVival.com it's our version of the standard solomon bar style survival bracelet.

I also run a small online boutique called Rusticlub

Step 1: What You'll Need

Heres what you'll need.

Step 2: Measuring Your Wrist.

1. Wrap a string or rope around your wrist and make sure it's nice and snug.
2. With a marker, make a line directly across the strings/ropes. See next image below for example.
3. I’ve darkened the lines in a photo editing software so you can see an example in part 3 of the diagram.
4. Now straighten out your string/rope and measure from mark to mark. I drew lines on the piece of paper underneath to help show my marks. In this particular demonstration, my wrist is an 8" wrist.

Step 3: Cutting and Melting Ends

• If the internal string, or the “guts” of the cord is exposed a bit, simply cut about a centimeter of the cord off at the end to enable a clean burn.
1. With your lighter, apply the flame for about 3-4 seconds rotating the cord to get an even burn.
2. Once the end is beginning to melt with your fingertips or some pliers squeeze down so it becomes somewhat flat. This will help you when threading your cord through your buckles.

Step 4: Sliding Buckles Onto Cord

1. Fold your 10' piece of paracord in half so you're working with both ends together. Get the Side release buckle the has 2 slits in it and place it next to the two ends.
2. With the buckle arced inward like in part 2 of the diagram, thread the cords through the lower slit of the buckle. This is shown in part 2 of the diagram.
3. Part 3 of the diagram is an example of how the buckle should look from a top view. Notice how it arcs inward to the right with the loose cords on the left of it.
4. Pull the loose ends of the cord through the loop created on the other side and pull it all the way until the knot forms and locks onto the buckle. The arrows in part 4 of the diagram show you that you are coming from underneath and up through/over the loop on the other side.
5. This is what it should look like when the knot is forms, and stops tight against the buckle.


Step 5: Measuring Cord to Match Wrist Size

• When measuring, make sure to measure from the middle point of the male part of the buckle, to the end part of the female part of the buckle. I have drawn lines to show you exactly where to measure.
• When measuring I like to add 1” to the total measurement you got when measuring your wrist size.
• For the example in this diagram, I'm making a bracelet for a wrist that measured in at 6.5”, so I’m measuring the cord to be 7.5” long.


Step 6: Completing Your First Braid

Every step 1-6 corresponds to the numbered parts in the diagram above. If you have trouble please correspond to the part which it pertains to. 

1. Position your bracelet like shown in part one of the diagram.
2. Take your left cord and thread it under the bracelet cords. 
3. Take the right cord and thread it under the left cord.
4. Take the right cord and continue threading it over the bracelet cords.
5. Continue the right cord through the loop you created with the left cord. 
6. Pull tight and create the knot like shown in part 6 of the diagram.


Step 7: Completing Second Braid

In this step you're simply going to repeat the previous step, except your'e going to start with the right cord instead of the left cord.

1. Take the right cord and thread it underneath the bracelet cords. 
2. Take the left cord and thread it under the right cord. 
3. Continue the left cord over the bracelet cords.
4. Continue the left cord through the loop you created in part 1 of the diagram. 

Remember, each number above corresponds to the numbers in the diagram. 

Step 8: Finish All Braids and Pull for More Slack

Alternate steps 6 and 7 until you reach the buckle at the bottom. Don't make your knots too tight or unraveling your bracelet in a time of need will be that much more difficult.



1. This is what it should look like when you braid all the way to the buckle. 
 -Notice the left over slack. 
2. Hold on to the male buckle (the bottom buckle in part 1 of the diagram) and pull on your braids towards the female buckle. This is shown in part 2 of the diagram.
3. After you pull for slack you should have more room to braid. Like shown here in part 3 of the diagram.


Step 9: Finishing It Off

In this step we will be beginning the final steps towards finishing up the bracelet. 


Once you find the last diagonal braid, pull it up to form a loop like you see in part 3 of the diagram.

1. Take your lose cords and thread them through the remaining "Slit" of the male buckle. The cords should be thread from the outside of the bracelet to the inside of the bracelet. This is demonstrated in part 1 of the diagram with the arrows that are pointing from right to left. 

- Also in part one, You want to find the last "Diagonal Braid" on the "Inside" of the bracelet. In part 1 of the diagram it shows you what the diagonal braids look like and where they are. (notice in part 1 it's on the outside, we want to find the last braid on the inside)
- When the last braid is found, pull it out a little, pull your cord loosening the braid forming a loop like shown in part 3 of the diagram.

2. In part 2 of the diagram it's simply showing you the "Inside" and "Outside" of the bracelet. Notice which way the buckles are arcing. The bottom of the bracelet, or "Inside" is the one where the buckles are arcing downward.

3. After forming the loop with the "Last diagonal braid" pull your loose cords through the loops that you formed. 

4. This is what it should look like when done. 

Step 10: Tightening Up the End

1. Part 1 of the diagram demonstrates what it should look like once your done with step 9.

Now it's time to tighten up all the loose cords.

2. With your thumb holding the "Last diagonal braid" pull the loose cords like shown in part 2 of the diagram. This should tighten everything up making it ready to cut and melt. 

I like to pull one cord at a time, I find that easier to do. 

Step 11: Final Cut and Melt

1. Cut the remaining cord off of the bracelet.  Leave about an 1/8" - 1/4" of cord.

2. Melt the ends of the cord so they do not fray. Make sure you squeeze them with your fingers or pliers to flatten them. This will make the deployment a lot easier when and if the time comes. 

Step 12: DONE!

Thanks for using my tutorial. Check out my online boutique!

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    45 Discussions

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    ragnarok232

    2 years ago

    I agree this is the best "How to make a Survival Bracelet" tutotial i have seen. Although I made mine a bit too small for me

    1 reply
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    jim21489

    3 years ago

    I have to complement you for laying out such a clear and precise tutorial. It is absolutely the best paracord bracelet tutorial I've seen. Job very well done!

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    Erika Wilder

    5 years ago on Step 12

    One of the best tutorials I've seen on the basic Solomon bar band. Keep up the great work! Looking forward to more... :)

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    Schmidty16

    5 years ago on Introduction

    when your making your measurements and you make your mark do u go right in the middle of your 10ft of cord

    1 reply
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    AnthValeSchmidty16

    Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

    Are you talking about when you use your cord to measure your wrist? If so, you could definitely use the middle of your 10 ft. piece as it would most likely end up on the inside of your bracelet out of site. But ideally use a piece of twine/string that is white and easier to manage and draw on.

    Hope this helps.

    Anthony

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    fiyero666

    6 years ago on Step 12

    Fantastic guide. Well presented and so easy to follow. Spent the past 20 minutes making one and it's come out far better than expected!

    1 reply
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    AnthValeRoboTronics21

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    Your very welcome.

    Gator tutorial is almost done. And I'm working on 2 others!

    Also had the website re-built so that should be up and running in a day or 2!

    Excited.

    Thanks !
    Anthony

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    AnthValewill1010

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    Yes, 1/2 are the ones shown in the intructables.

    I should be adding buckles to the website this weekend.

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    AnthValeRoboTronics21

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    Type III (3 I's) not Type II

    But yes....It's made by E.L. Wood Braiding Company. One of the very few companies who genuinely make it for the US Government.

    7 Inner strands each containing three inner strands of their own. One strand is yellow/blackish in color.

    Only offered in the military colors. Tan, Coyote Brown, Black, White, OD Green, Foliage Green, and Orange.

    Gator Tutorial coming soon!

    Anthony

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    AnthValeRoboTronics21

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    It depends what you get. After tons of research I've come to conclusion.

    There's Commercil 550 Paracord. Such as "Rothco" and other brands which you can buy all over the internet.

    These are 550 pound test.

    Then theres true, Type III MIL-C-5040H. Which is the Real Deal.

    The difference? Well not much. The real stuff just goes through a different series of military approved tests to be ready for military use.

    If you open up the two cords, (commercial and Type II MIL-C-5040H) You will find one has 7 strands each containing 2 strands of itself, (this is the commercial one) but the real Type II MIL-C-5040H has 7 strands each containing 3 strands of itself, and one strand is a different color, usually yellow, where as with the commercial it's all the same color strands.

    The commercial stuff usually is thicker then the real stuff. Usually around 5/16" Type II MIL-C-5040H Is more like 1/8".

    After reading a bit. I've learned that the real stuff most likely has a breaking strength more around 700-800 pounds, but they put it at 550 for whatever reason.

    But the commercial stuff is more likely to be around 550 pounds.

    I do not suggest repeling with this stuff.

    Anthony

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    AtlantaTerryAnthVale

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    You wrote, "I do not suggest repeling with this stuff. "

    Which "stuff"?

    You are writing about two: commercial (spelled correctly) and Mil-Spec.

    Which of those two would you not repel with?

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    tjesseAtlantaTerry

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    I’m sure that he meant both. Parachute cord is not designed for climbing or repelling. You know that you look like a jerk when you correct spelling, yet you want to ask questions and expect a response. Don’t be THAT guy, this forum is not up for peer review.

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    SgtJokertjesse

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    the Military grade cord can be used for short distance repelling if necessary. Only if you double up the cord (of course you would need a long enough cord). I have seen it done during my Active Duty days in the Army. It is not recommended, of course neither is being shot so given the choice one would certainly decide which is a riskier move! haha

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    AnthValeAtlantaTerry

    Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

    I wouldn't with either. Excuse my grammar. I liked math and science more.

    Unless there is absolutely no other way to get down from where you are. And repeling is THE ONLY way. Then ya, you can do it, and it will hold your weight if used correctly.

    It's just not designed to be used at climbing rope. If it gets sliced a little on a rock it may just rip right in half.

    I mean with the bracelets your talking 8-14 feet depending on the type of bracelet you make/purchase. I don't know what you'll be repeling down with that.

    But the belts/dog leashes on the other hand. Those are a different story.

    Still wouldn't suggest repeling with either cord.

    Anthony