Building a small above ground pool/spa using a 1000L IBC and some pallets
Step 1: Materials
You'll need the liner from a 1000L IBC (if you can't get one free I believe you can buy one pretty cheap around the place) and some 1150-1200mm wooden pallets (clean/new ones are better). I had cut mine down to the desired height prior to bringing them home....which was just below the second slat (around 800mm for the record) but not all pallets are the same so see what works for you :)
Really it depends on the size of the gaps in your pallets and what you can get your hands on but you will want some lengths of wood suitable for filling in those gaps when we get to "Finish cladding exterior"
You'll also need a good supply of timber screws at least 45mm long
Depending on how fussy you are, you may wish to purchase some dressed/finished timber for your top trim/ledge....otherwise you may be able to use some of the pallet offcuts.
I did the former (1200mm x 180mm x 12mm)
Step 2: More Materials
You'll also want some pool or spa suction and provision jets and plenty of PVC pipe with fittings to suit your specific requirements (depending on pump placement etc)
In addition to these, you will need a pool pump. I have used a Bestway 1/4 hp unit with sand filter because I need adequate head pressure for the solar heating I will be installing on my roof at a later date :)
Something smaller would be ok if you aren't heating yours :)
Step 3: Recommended Tools
Hacksaw or cordless reciprocating saw.
Cordless drill/driver with phillips bit and a small drill bit for pilot drilling timber as well as holesaw attachments to suit whichever size jets you are using.
A heat gun is optional but highly recommended.
Step 4: Fitting Jets and Initial Pipework
Ensuring things are going to line up with the gaps in your pallets, cut your holes and install your jets. Make sure you tighten them up nicely. Follow the fitting instructions specific to your chosen kit.
Once the jets are in you can begin plumbing up your PVC pipework....being sure to use the appropriate PVC cement.
Step 5: Constructing the Frame and Fixing Down Edges of the Liner
Your IBC will be rectangular in shape so arrange your pallets as shown in the pics. The pallets should be almost exactly the same length as the long side of the IBC meaning that the pallets on the short sides will sit with just the right amount of overlap for you to fasten them together without having to shorten them or cut them in any other way.
Use your drill driver the screw the pallets together. Back side of of one pallet overlaps perfectly onto the end of another.
The gaps should be sufficient enough for the nosecone of your drill to get through
Once this is done you can cut the top off your IBC (if you hadn't already) and cut vertically down each of the corners down to the level of the top of the frame.
Using the heat gun, heat up the plastic, allowing it to be folded over and screwed down onto the frame.
If you look at the finished product, you will see why this gives a much more professional look.....
Step 6: Connecting Your Pump
Small pool pumps are, for the most part, fairly portable. So just find some flat, even ground for it where it is reasonably well protected.....ideally, close to an all-weather outdoor power outlet. Mine came in its own cradle so all I had to do it put it where I wanted it.
I recommend the flexible hose connections just because they give you a little bit of breathing room if you need to repostion or replace the pump.
I have fitted isolation valves so that if the pump needs to be replaced at any point, those can be shut off and no water need be lost from the tub.
If you do in fact wish to change the water, the IBC has a dispensing valve at its lowest point.....which is just perfect (shown)
I recommend leaving a cut-out in your pallet/ frame for easy access to this :)
Step 7: Capping It Off
This bit is really as simple as cutting your wood to size and screwing it down so that you have an even amount of overhang all the way around the outside.
Avoid too much inner overhang if you don't want to encroach on the already small area.
Pallets aren't generally engineered to exacting standards so you may find yourself packing certain parts up with thin slivers of wood to get the capping nice and level.
I fixed mine down with 12G stainless hex drive screws. Not only because they look pimp, but also because its the one area where the screws are likely to get splashed with water.....and rust is U.G.L.Y
Step 8: Finish Cladding Exterior
Cut your lengths of "gap filling wood" to size and using more of your 50 million timber screws, fasten them into place.
The wood I am using was "whatever I could get my hands on" and so it turned out to be thicker than the slats of the pallet. I quite like the effect. I think it adds some dimension.
Step 9: Fill and Enjoy!
Once you have the water level above your suction jets, it is safe to switch the pump on.
You will need to decide what water treatment strategy you are going to take. Personally I am using chlorine tablets in a floater (not shown) because its the easiest by far with really no fuss.
The challenge I set myself here was to keep cost down without compromising the quality of the end product.
I am in the fortunate position of being able to get my hands on a lot of these materials for free.
The pump was my only cash outlay at $100 for a good second hand unit.
If you had to fork out for every single part, then this is probably a $500 project (assuming you already have tools)
This is my first ever instructable so I hope I have done an alright job.
Thanks for reading!
Second Prize in the
Teach It! Contest Sponsored by Dremel