Ice Claws




20 days ago I was in the field. And there was snow and ice...and I slip down. So, I decided to buy ice cleats/crampons. Well, here was limit on real alps high quality stuffs ... i.e. high prices. So, went to nearby metalworking shop...

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Step 1: Start

T profile plate 2 mm thick. with holes for screws. Zinc protected against rust. A 25 mm steel screws, zinc protected, for metal. Self drive in.

Step 2: Tool

I took a saw, a rasp and a rasp and a wrench....shorten T profile, extend holes for future strip, and start to screw bolts. Some holes should to be adjusted, to match the screw.

Step 3: Looking How Should Be Fastened

As you can see,  some heads of bolts suddenly find a place between ribs...

Step 4: Reinforcements

In spite the bolts hold tight in T plate, to avoid unscrewing, I decide to use small torch and put simple zinc wire to fasten heads....  after I cleaned - wash this with gasoline.

Step 5: Testing

Well, later I add strip and clips, and tray it out in the field on frozen waterfall...
I menage to stand still and secure, to move, to climb, to take a photos ... from the point which is without this..... impossible.

Step 6: This Is That

That is this.
Well, now I have help, for eventual situation. Not heavily to carry in backpack, cheap and strong. 
Its work for me,

Yours on your  responsibility.

Sincerely yours.

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    57 Discussions


    4 months ago

    Thanks for sharing great information about the Ice Claws, I read this blog and also searching on many websites regarding this information. But your comment gives me complete details about Ice Claws. Please post more blog to other products related.


    3 years ago

    Does anyone know where to get the T profile plate? I went to both Lowes and Home Depot, looked in the trussing area and did not see one like this. Any suggestions?



    4 years ago on Introduction

    Um, that looks scary. I would rather using salt to make ice surface tough.


    6 years ago on Step 6

    Great idea! Must-have for ice fishing and river hiking. I like your style.


    8 years ago on Introduction

    These are nice, I may be making my self a pair in the next few days. Only thing I would do is not cut the first few screw holes like you did because you will get more traction and the center of your feet won't be a high point.

    I'll be using 1/4" screws the 1" you've got there seem a bit long.

    Good job on making these!


    8 years ago on Introduction

    I'm a big fan. I could've used this instructable a few months ago, b/c it was pretty slick out where I'm at. I'll be doing this for next winter.


    8 years ago on Introduction

    Great Instructable! I'll definitely do this next winter!


    8 years ago on Introduction

    very nice alternative to the big boot spikes of yesteryear i wish i had thees on yesterday... i might not have had to go to the ER


    8 years ago on Step 4

    Great idea and I will be making some for work. One thing you should DELETE the part about using GASOLINE to clean. GASOLINE is probably the most dangerous thing handled on a daily basis by most people and using it for a cleaner is just asking to end up burned very badly or dead. Static electricity is enough to set of GASOLINE.

    6 replies

    All well and good to say "don't do ..." but it helps more to provide a replacement suggestion.

    I use petrol and turpentine for cleaning bike parts, or sometimes engine cleaner aerosol spray. For non oily things, a spray bottle with water and dishwash and a dish brush then a rince with the hose.

    Your turn.


    It's not easy finding the solution to a non-combustible solvent, at work we have switch to a eco friendly bio-degradable solvent ( though it is very expensive ). Hot soapy water usually does it for most parts. Dawn dish washing liquid works well for me. Boiling some items is another option if the parts will take the heat without harm and you do this outdoors. I know some people have even saved old ovens hooked them up outside and use them to bake stuff off and to even sterilize garden soils. A stiff wire brush and old paint brushes work wonders, may take longer, but far safer that GASOLINE.

    Lots of people overlook ammonia as a degreaser. It works extremely well. Of course, you have to avoid the vapors. Just thought I would add it to the list of commonly available degreasers. It is much cheaper than simple green, but I wouldn't gargle with it or anything.


    Reply 8 years ago on Step 4

    I find Simplegreen works well for most stuff, especially for cleaning bike parts and other stuff without worrying about stripping the paint. Its also biodegradable and not carcinogenic like gasoline, not to mention non-flammable and safe to pour down the drain. The only reason to use oil based cleaners would be if using a parts washer that requires them for self lubrication, or if whatever you are washing cannot be exposed to water, and then should only use mineral oil or spirits. Isopropyl or denatured alcohol are also alternatives, but you have to watch out for their vapors. Gasoline(petrol) from stations actually contains a decent percentage alcohol as it is also quite flammable, just not as energy-dense.


    Reply 8 years ago on Step 4

    "Gasoline(petrol) from stations actually contains a decent percentage alcohol as it is also quite flammable"

    That depends on your location in the world. I know the US cut their fuel with ethanol to alter the RON, doubtless other places do. But not here in New Zealand.

    I've never had a problem with paint being stripped by cleaning, unless its already loose and flaking or rusting.

    And petrol (gasoline) is still cheaper per litre than all cleaners other than soapy water.
    Decent gloves help protect the hands of course.