Infinity Icosahedron 2.0

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About: ... using laser cutter, PCBs, 3D-Printer and whatever i get into my hands to build things

Since Make Munich come closer with giant step,s it is time to build some new exhibits. First test with a taped together ikosahedron where successful, so i wanted to build a more cleaned up version out of spy mirror acrylic for better reflections. On a side project while waiting for the 3D-prints i also built the simple cube version.

A laser cutter is used for cutting both acrylic spy mirrors as well as diffusor plates for the icosahedron and the frame for the cube, while a 3D-printer is used for the frame of the icoshaedron and stands.

WS2812b stripes with an ESP32 as controller are used for enlighting. The cube uses stripes with 60 LEDs/m, the ikosahedron stripes with 144 LEDs/m.

Acrylic spy mirror can eb bought at Pyrasied, a source for all kind of interesting acrylics.

Step 1: 3D-Puzzle

My Icosahedron is made by Triangles of 15 cm length (due to the bed size of the Epilog of 60 cm *30 cm). For connections we use the files from the Icosaeder.scad file: As a parametric design, you can easily change the design for different sizes and types of LED stripes. The connector() -module there shows the clip onsystem for the edges: I divides it into 3 parts for easier printing without any support. Holes on the outer side are used to clip the LEDs as well as the Capacitors next to it on the stripe on the into the design, while the acrylic parts (3mm thick) are clipped on the side.

A diffusor made of 3mm semi transparent acrylic ist plugged on the inside for light guidance (see third image). For stabilization, the 3d prints are glued together on the edges with Epoxy.

Step 2: Wiring

When the ikosahedron is assembled, the LED-stripes are glued on the outside. For easier wiring we start on a corner, go on a zig-zag line around it, afterwards continue with the zigzag in the middle and finishing with the uppermost 5 triangles in one line. In most cases, we can therefore just wire from one strip to the next with silver wire.

This leaves some edges outside this line: Here we go from one stripes date out into this stripe and on its end back on the strip to the start and the zig zag line, fixated with tape.

Directly add the controller at the start and test each assembled strip, since both data direction won't be visible anymore and therefore mounting all stripes before soldering is not recommended.

Step 3: Finishing

For covering the stripes (albait i was tempted to leave stripes and silver wire visible) thin cubes are glued on the LED stripes (the cube() at the end of the part list in OpenScad). The edges are covered with caps, which are bend into shape, and a stand is printed out (socket()).

Since i used a wrong angle for the socket arms, thin stripes of black foam are used as a distance holder (third picture), which gives it a nice floating touch.

The hole on the back of the stand is used to cover the ESP, it uses at the moment just the basic example of the Fast-LED-Library, uploaded with the Arduino IDE, with the Stripes at pin 17, 5V connected to the ESPs 5V, same for Ground.

Step 4: Bonus: Cube

While waiting for the 3D-prints i got bored and build a basic cube with roughly 30cm edge length. First the Stripes in Cube.svg are cut out of 5mm MDF and glued together (both with glue as well as tape for quicker assembly).

The sides are optimized for stripes with 60 LEDs/m, with 60 LEDs glued inside one side of the frame, with 360 LEDs in total, the Ikosahedrons used 630 LEDs.

This stripes are again hold in place with tape wrapped around frame and stripe. Each of the six stripes then got a 4 wire connection (VCC, GND, Data out and in) with flat cable, again hold in place with tape and guided along the frame to one central point used for the stand, where they are connected in a row.

Next, the Cube_Box.svg was designed with CutCAD (i just made the mistake to assume a symmetric setup while cutting the same side over and over again, which leaves mistakes in some edges (luckily, neglectable)). A triangle hole is then made in one corner for wiring, and the acrylic spy mirror sheets taped together.

At the moment i am still undecided to glue it nicer together without the tape or design cover for the edges. They are already included in the icosaeder.scad file, same goes for the stand of the cube, which was printed afterwards.

It uses again a hidden ESP in the socket with the same program as before.

Step 5: Next Steps

it already looks nice, but in the next weeks i need to add some interactivity. One will be made sound reactive, the other probably connected to three heart beat sensor (one for each RGB color). Other options are brain waves, or maybe designing some game on it.

But for the beginning i'm just enjoying the colors.

Epilog X Contest

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Epilog X Contest

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    22 Discussions

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    Di-JoH

    26 days ago

    that looks great I am designing something similar for a while but with a dodecahedron as shape . I think that is the ideal shape for this.

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    facedeath1966

    Question 5 weeks ago

    Great Project!
    I am having a little problem with printing the Connector.
    I had cura lay the object flat on the bed.
    Tried printing it but it came out as the picture shows. Any suggestions.
    Using Cura.
    Printer is Creality CR-X
    Using ABS
    Thanks,
    Jim

    Connector.jpg
    1 answer
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    janthfacedeath1966

    Reply 5 weeks ago

    Printing them upright (small side on the bed) should work, then the printer just has to do small overhangs (of course, then you hevo to devide it into at least two parts because of the top), three might be better because of tower height.

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    teo_smy

    Question 5 weeks ago

    Did you managed to make it sound reactive? willing to share the code?

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    jkelso33

    Question 5 weeks ago

    How much to buy one of these that are sound activated?

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    devoh

    Question 4 months ago on Step 4

    What are you using for power? I see the adafruit recommends 5v10A per 4 meter lengths.. and this is around 6 meters. Did you cap max brightness? if so what percent?

    1 answer
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    janthdevoh

    Reply 4 months ago

    I used just a 5V2.1A power supply (more would be better, but for me it was sufficient). The maximum power would be for all LEDs bright white, with fading effects and non-white color i would guess that there should
    be far less than a quater of the max power in use at a time (I think i set them at the end to maximum brightness). Of course, if you want to put all LEDs on white and full power at a time a bigger power supply might be better, otherwise just use a regular USB power supply you have at hand and test it. Worst case you get weird effects for higher brightnesses, and then you can still switch to a bigger power supply :)

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    devoh

    Question 4 months ago on Step 4

    For the cube can you show the led strip laying arrangement you used? I am trying to figure out how to wire it so each edge has two led strips but not coming up with a layout that works yet.

    3 answers
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    janthdevoh

    Answer 4 months ago

    Hehe, that was indeed the biggest problem with the cube. First a tried also to wire all stripes in a row side by side, which was a nightmare (and due to one burned out WS2812 didn't worked well ar all). At the end i took one 1m strip for each side, wrapped around one side (see image - hope that is understandable?) such that DIN meets DOUT again in one corner.
    There, you can solder the wire both on DIN, GND, and VCC on the beginning of the strip and a fourth cable on DOUT at the end of the strip. The wire is then glued on the outside of the frame such that all 6 wires from the side come together on one corner (where later the stand is). Which allows to check each strip independent, and connect VIN and VOUT of the strips later.


    wiring.png
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    devohjanth

    Reply 4 months ago

    Janth,
    From what you have said I think I have it figured out how to have everything starting and stopping in two opposite corners. It this how it worked out for you all wires coming into two opposite corners? In my pic I have the wires starting and stopping in vertex A and vertex G. Is this what you were showing me?
    If yes do you connect the DIN, GND and VCC together for the three loops (that start and stop at vertex A and G)? If yes again do you then do the same for the wires at vertex A and vertex G, as in connect the DIN, GND and VCC of the two vertexes together? Then you would only have three wires going down the base instead of what 18?
    Regards
    Scan.jpg
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    janthdevoh

    Reply 4 months ago

    yes, seems to be correct, combining them on two opposite vertex will also work - the only reason but everthing together in the base (with indeed more wires going along the edges) was that i had more space there to hide connectors, with the flat wires between mirror and frame. Should have made more pictures while assembling (i always forget it), before glueing everything together. One minor thing: For a symmetric display connecting all DIN together will work, the only reason for putting everything in on row DOUT from one strip to the next DIN is more freedom for display. In an ongoing build i also connected just the Datalines.

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    janthdevoh

    Answer 4 months ago

    Regular size (5050), for smaller objects the other might be better

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    jvyp

    5 months ago

    This looks really awesome! You should try to do the Dodecahedron as well since you've done the Icosahedron!

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    amygoodchild

    5 months ago

    This is siiiiiiick. Nice job!

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    luqui82

    5 months ago

    Can you upload the stl files instead scad files?

    1 reply
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    MatthijsT2

    5 months ago

    Very nice!
    Could you show some more pics of making the cube?
    Want to try and make one myself.