Intro: LuxO's EZ King Bed Frame
LuxO's EZ King Bed Frame is a no-nonsense, easy-to-customize bed frame design.
Our grid frame gives you even support across the entire bed. No squeaking, no moving, and extra support for your headboard to keep everything in place.
The designs to create it yourself are easy to use, too - CNC makes it a snap!
Step 1: Making Sure You Have All the Stuff You Need
Your luxOmat kit has everything you need including moral support and hand tools and all the holes are pre-drilled for you.
If you are building from scratch and need the CNC files, you can download the DXF and VCarve files here for free and the rest of the hardware can be purchased from your local hardware store, in either 1/4 20 or 6mm depending on where you hail from
There will be:
•six (6) long pieces and
•two (2) large pieces, as well as
•a packet of twenty (20) 2” ¼-20 Philips flat head machine screws and
•a packet of twenty-four (24) ¼-20 pronged tee nuts not to mention
•four (4) 1”¼-20 thumb screws with four (4) matching washers and finally
•four (4) E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Zinc, Hex-Flanged, ¼-20 Internal Threads
You may also optionally have:
•a six outlet USB
•Remote LED kit
You will need:
- Screwdriver that matches your bolts
- 6mm Hex Wrench
- Hand Drill with 6.34mm (1/4") bit
- Doweling Jig
- Carpenter's Square
- Dead Blow or Rubber Mallet
- That Guy's Leg
Now would also be an excellent time to do any finish work you want to do prior to assembly.
Yes, you could technically paint or stain after it’s assembled, but honestly it’s just not going to look as good. Sanding is easier too. I think I’ve made my point.
Be sure to read through the instructions before assembly. While this is technically an “EZ” level kit and it doesn’t have any glue, it does have some bits that are tricky to be sure
Step 2: Lining Up the Drill Holes for the Bolts and Tee Nuts
Draw a line in the middle of each bolt hole.
Each hole is 25mm or 1” so 12.5mm or ½” to the center for each one
Drill in the center of the wood ply with a 5/16” 8 mm drill. Drill a hole for every slot, for a total of 24 total holes
For best results, use a dowling jig and/or a wood bit that has a precision tip so your drill doesn’t wander
Step 3: Installing the Tee Nuts
Next, thread a tee nut backwards onto one of the bolts. We are going to use this as a brace to set the tee nuts into the frame
The top of the nut should spin and pull the tee nut in the base into the wood, securing it for later
The finished product should look like the last photo
Step 4: Assemble the Base
You should be ready with all the cross pieces.
Make sure the footer section is facing to the end of the frame. These are marked on one side with an “f” for “footer”
Assemble the cross sections by just sliding the pieces together
Make sure all the holes are facing up
Step 5: Attaching the Footer
Tap the remaining tee nuts into the outside on front. This is where we will attach the footer later
You don’t need a hammer but it would help
We are putting these here so when you tighten everything together it doesn’t strip out the bolt
Installing the Rivet Nuts
Take the included 6mm hex wrench, or the nice one Grandma gave you for your birthday, and screw the rivet nuts into the holes in the footer. Make sure it’s the footer, if the holes go all the way through it’s the header
Be careful not to strip them out, it’s easy to do if you’re not paying attention
Try to get them flush with the panel surface but don’t worry too much, the gap is less than 3mm and it’s really just for decoration
Step 6: Installing the Thumb Screws for the Footer
Here you will be using the thumb screws to hold the footer to the frame. The best way to do this is to just install the screws so they are sticking out a little bit so it’s easy to catch the thread on the footer
Just line up the footer panel to the screws and tighten them down
Step 7: Attaching the Header
The header is a little easier, just insert the tee nuts on the inside of the slot and tighten down all four screws. It’s not necessary but I also like to countersink these so they are flush
Step 8: Attaching the Bed Platform
Line up the holes on the header and make sure the word “front” is on the other side at the foot of the bed. Again, I like to countersink here but it’s not strictly necessary
Step 9: The Final Product
This is how the basic frame should look assembled, add a custom headboard and footer to make it really look great!
(This shows the Headboard and Footer, check out our Instructable for the Headboard and Custom Footer)