Intro: Outdoor Pallet Credenza/Bar
I enjoy walking through my neighborhood on the night before trash day... i know its a problem BUT... i have found so many usefully odds and ends. From Mid Centruty Modern Teak chairs, Stainless Steel Bug Spray Canisters, a Chimnea, Plants, and so on, while they all need some love, for the most part they are in good shape. This project started with a side table i found which had some good bones.....but needed some of that TLC.
As you see in the pictures the long, solid, mahogany toned, curvacious legs are in great shape, but the shoddy MDF top has seen better days.
And it just so happens i have a pile of broken down pallet wood from a previous project (Which i never have gotten around to post here).... so here we go.
a. Pallets come in a various assortment from plastic to pine, to treated, untreated, and solid oak. (http://logistics.about.com/od/tacticalsupplychain/a/pallet_WMS.htm)
b. WE WANT OAK!! Why? Because it is sturdy, heavy,solid, it doesn’t warp easily, is very good for all sorts of pallet projects, holds a stain, clear coat, or heaven forbid paint, well...and…well…it has great grain quality!
c. Oh and my favorite, you can say…this awesome piece of furniture I made is soooolid oak (in a snobby voice)... if it were mahogony...insert Anchorman Reference
d. So how do you select…First you want a pallet that isn’t too far gone from its original shape. We are looking for quality,whole, with as few non-recoverable blemishes as possible, pieces of wood we can use from the pallets
e. Secondly, look for the markings: These marking will indicate Type, Load, treated, untreated … etc
f. Some sites for more information on Pallets and Pallet recycling/identifying/and aquiring
2) The Breakdown:
a. Many ways:
- You can use your pry bar and a hammer (Which is what i used to do. You can keep the nails that survive and use them for this project or many others....i just acquired toooooo many.)
- Build a tool/jig (https://www.instructables.com/id/Simple-Prybar-for-pallets/)
- Painstakingly stomp on it
OR my method.... the quick, easy and sweat free Saw-z-All Method
- I stand the pallet straight up and cut through the nails between the boards, then i tap out the heads with a nail punch.
- I used to pry the pallets apart BUT I accumulated so many amazing awesome, FREE twisty pallet nails...i decided i didnt need any more... so Saw-Z-All away!
Step 1: TAKE OFF YOUR TOP!!!...Please?
Step 2: Vaseline, Acrylic Paint, and a Doberman
Ok so my Doberman pretty much just stood there BUT..
1) Wipe down any dust, dirt, or moisture
2) Rub a dollop (dollop?...really?) of vaseline on corners, feet, strategically decided areas...dont be shy, rub it on!
3) I used a sample size of Paint I found at Lowe's, it cost 3 bucks and I still have enough left or another project!
3) Use whatever brush you have, clean, used, doesn't matter...we are going for distressed looking...
---BUT i would have used a new foam brush and that is what i would suggest for you.
4) Paint the first coat allow to dry about 10 minutes
5) Apply the second coat, again, let dry 10 minutes.
6) by now the second coat should still be semi-tacky, using a DRY paper towel, wipe off the paint where you applied the vaseline.
7) allow to dry fully OVERNIGHT.
Step 3: Underbelly of Blackness
This step, well any step, is optional...but if you want it done right...do this
1) I applied an OIL based Rust-O-Leum exterior black paint to the underside of the table to seal it from the weather.
2) Look at the pictures....pretty self explanatory.
Step 4: Matching Up and Cutting the Top With MY-My-My My-Hitachi
Having laid out and decided where the piece fall...
1) I used my 10" Hitachi Miter to rough cut the outline.
- Side note, I prefer this little Hitachi of Awesome because she is light, dependable, and oh god little baby packs some power...
2) Moving on to the edge work clean up...I used my Skil Jigsaw to cut the corners and clean up any lines that needed some cleaning...
***Pictures are worth a thousand words..so on this page that makes it about 9000 words...so start looking
Step 5: Sticky Side Down
1) Line up the pieces , then stack up the pieces in order so you can have quick access...
2) Using Construction adhesive, apply around the edges of the naked top of the table.
3) Realign the pieces ontop the table and press firmly. No need to weigh the pieces down becuase NOW we get to use some brute force!!!
4) Ok not brute force but sheer strength (engineers...am i right here?) Using 1.25" finishing nailed, hammer them in about 1/2in from the edge (so the router doesn't start sparkin' !!)
5) Onward to finishing the edges.....
Step 6: Oh Sandy
Again My-My-My-My Hitachi!
Start out with 60 grit and work your way down to 220...feel that...soooo smooth...go ahead, touch your screen....fell that smoothness....
Step 7: Old Franken-Hitachi!!!
Edge work can be a pain...unless you have a 3HP Hitachi TR-12!
I call her Helen...no reason to go into it, but this beast has cut through so much and just keeps on going!
---Only problem, replacement parts are hard to find, so if there are any Hitachi People out there... i need spare pats please!!
1) I used a round over bit and simply traced along the edges.
2) BE CAREFUL, routers, like all power tools, can be dangerous...so don't be a tool!!...oh puns...
Step 8: Admire!
So, this is it....I think I might leave her oh-naturale...
But i think i can dig up some golden oak stain...What do you think?
If i change anything i will make sure to update the 'ible!!!
VOTE Purdy Please!
Runner Up in the