There are all kinds of PVC shoulder rig tutorials on the web, but this design is created specifically for a DSLR camera!
Made from 1/2 Inch PVC, here is a simple totally customizable 'spider-brace' style shoulder rig!
Though this design was created for use with a DSLR camera, ANY camera will work and this rig will give you stable and smooth camera shots with camera's as small as a iphone or flip all the way up!
Keep in mind, this is just my design, mostly for a guide for you to go out and make something even better!
Let's get started!
Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Step 1: Here's What You'll Need:
1/2 Inch PVC/ Connections
2 T joint
3 6 ½-7 Straight
2 5 ½ Straight
2 2 ½ Straight
9 1 ½ Straight
PVC Conduit Electric box – Side access panel
lower and back fittings.
For the Camera base you'll need:
1 2inch ¼-20 thread thumbscrew
Some optional things would be:
Bike hand grips
Step 2: Camera Base - Conduit PVC Box
On the conduit PVC box I used spray adhesive and placed a foam pad on the top to allow the camera to mount more securely to the base and keep it from moving. I used a 2 inch thumbscrew ¼-20 thread, 2 nuts and a spring. The conduit box has a rear and lower fitting with the access panel on the side!
The bolt assembly is setup like this: the two nuts tighten together to keep the top of the bolt at a proper distance from the top of the mount. Keeping the bolt from pushing too far out of the top. The spring is only there to keep the bolt from dropping out of the top hole when nothing is mounted.
Step 3: The Handle Assembly
Take the 6 ½ -7“ straight, and two 45° angles and connect them with your 1 ½ “ straight.
Assemble both handles the same, connecting them to a T joint with a 1 ½” connector on one side and the 2 ½ ” on the other.
The 2 ½” connection will go on the opposite side of where your shoulder rest will be, to compensate for the camera being slightly off center.
Step 4: Assembling the Should Rest
Now you'll take the 6 ½ -7” straight into a T joint, then into a 5 ½” straight. Connect a 45° into a 1 ½” connection, into a 90° degree. Repeat that setup on the other side.
Step 5: Complete Assembly
Now, with the rest of your components, connect the 2 ½” straight to the conduit, into a 90° and that into the other 90° and there you go! That’s the setup I went with, but here’s an alternate setup if you want a wider base for your camera. And all you’ll need to do is pivot the base and remove the two 90° angles, and that will create a rig with a wide base.
This is an example of just how customizable PVC designs can be. So get creative and try out some different designs yourself!
Step 6: Fine Tuning
Ok! Now that everything’s dry fitted, and we have a basic setup put on the rig and start making the fine adjustments. I found it easier to have a mirror near by to make sure it’s sitting on the shoulder correctly and things look and feel correct.
Now, for my design, I want to add some shoulder padding, so before I glue anything in place, I want to cut some pipe insulation, creating the 90° angles. Then, hot glue and tape it to hold the form until the glue is secure. And that’s the optional shoulder padding.
Once everything is setup the way you like it, just mark all of your PVC connections, (I like to use 2 lines to assure perfect alignment) and glue it together!
And be sure to number the pieces also!
Trust me, it’s very easy to lose track of what pieces go where and PVC glue cures quickly! You can see in one of the photos, where I forgot to mark my PVC and I glued it together and set it up for the wrong shoulder. So I had to make another one.
Step 7: Some Customization
I setup my rig so the connections to the base are removable with a screw. This option was to allow for me to break my rig down and pack it for travel.
If you don’t already have one, grab a PVC cutter, SO much better than a saw!
Step 8: Final Assembly and a Quick Note About the Conduit Box
Now there are a few different PVC conduit box styles to choose from. But what you’re looking for is the side access, rear and lower connection.
You can decide which one works best for your design, but I wanted to at least point out some of the differences.
Step 9: The Full Shoulder Rig
Here are some random photos of my rig at different stages!
And there’s your PVC shoulder rig!
I ended up covering mine with athletic tape and added bike hand grips. Optional, yet worth it!