PVC Target Stand 1.0

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Intro: PVC Target Stand 1.0

So you don't have the money or inclination to buy a $75 ar500 target stand(s). Or perhaps you don't understand why anyone would need AR500 target stands, emphasis on stands not TARGETS, cause you are not supposed to shoot the STANDS! AH!

Well this instructable will take care of those problems for CHEAP!

Step 1: Required Materials

1. 1" PVC - amount depending on size. For this build you will need 102" inches of 1" sch40 PVC plus scrap.

2. 1" PVC scd40 Tee fitting - Qty: 4

3. Target lathe (1x2 wood) - amount depending on desired target height or your car trunk. I buy 96" 1x2 at lowes. I prefer this material over a thinning lathe as it last much longer. Note that this material will need to be notched to insert into the PVC.

Step 2: Cut Materials

Cut List:

  • 16" - Qty: 4
  • 14" - Qty: 1
  • 12" - Qty: 1
  • 1x2" wood cut to preferred length. I cut my 96" boards into two 40" lengths. The 48" ones don't fit in my trunk... Max out the length as you can always trim back the ends when shot up. The notch in the end should be at least 6-10 inches in length to be stable in the stand and 3/4" wide or to fit ID of pipe.

Step 3: Assemble Materials

  1. Assemble qty: 2 -16" lengths of PVC with one Tee fitting.
  2. Repeat step one and assemble another leg.
  3. Assemble upright section of target stand.
    • Two 12" lengths of PVC make the uprights
    • One 14" length PVC makes the cross brace
    • Use two tees putting the long side vertical
  4. Optional step: Glue the pieces together. I used to leave the stands just press fit together. After a few dozen setup and tear downs the pipes begin to come apart too easily making it difficult to use long term. Depending on your needs such as storage and usage rates, gluing may not be needed. I suggest not gluing them initially until you are decided on how you want them to work. Below is how I have mine glued.

Suggested glued fittings

  • The leg assemblies
  • The upright assembly

This allows me to remove the legs to reduce footprint for storage or transport. It also allows me to pivot each leg on the end of the upright 90 degrees to make assembly semi flat. This is my preferred storage/ transport configuration.

PRIOR TO GLUING MAKE SURE THE UPRIGHT IS FLAT. THIS IS THE ONLY PIECE THAT WILL MATTER.

Step 4: Final Touches

On all my target stands I have 1/4" holes drilled in end of each leg. I suggest that this step be taken to allow the legs to be staked down in the event that wind is blowing your targets down.

Suggest looking into buying some 6" pole barn nails for stakes. I have mine setup with paracord loops on the nail head to aid in removing them.

Happy trails! Tune back in for the next couple instructables for stand repairs and a prototype I'm working on for a swinging target.

Check out my instagram account for target stand usage and new designs! USPSAspiderman

Youtube Channel: USPSAspiderman

Facebook: USPSAspiderman

THANKS AND KEEP ON BUILDING!

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    4 Discussions

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    Lorddrake

    Question 2 months ago

    what kind of targets are you using with this stand?
    how are you attaching the target to the stand?

    1 more answer
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    USPSAspidermanLorddrake

    Answer 2 months ago

    I use uspsa or ipsc targets. I typically staple the targets to the 1x2.

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    USPSAspidermanPenolopy Bulnick

    Reply 2 months ago

    Yep very sturdy, more so when glued. They ride in my trunk all the time and I use them weekly. Been doing that for over a year with small tweaks here or there. You folks get over a years R&D! :)