Personalized Garden Stepping Stones




About: Retired, doing art work now. Great. Have the time and the money to spend doing what I want to do.

I started making these stepping stones this spring so decided to publish. I use a hotwire machine as can be seen in my other instructables on that subject. I find so many uses for the hotwire technique I don't know how a craftsperson can be without one! So many things, so much fun, very worth while! See "Hotwire Magic" on this site to get up to speed.

Step 1: Materials and Tools Needed for This Project:

1. Form(s) for the stepping stone
2. Cement, mortar, sand, water, usual concrete items.
3. Buckets
4. Trowels, spreaders, etc.
5. Sponges
6. Cans or measuring cups to measure the various ingredients.
7. Styrofoam or EPS foam (To make letters for the name, message).
9. Hotwire machine...Mighty Goliath! (See my instructable: making the mighty goliath).
10. Backer or bottom board for the mold. Letters will be glued to this board, and the board serves as the bottom of the mold.

Step 2: Build or Select Forms to Be Used.

I have made bricks with names also, so have shown some brick forms. For the stepping stones shown, I used a commercially available "walkmaker". These can be found at big box stores. The last time I checked, they were about $13.00. I want to use the largest of the stone shapes as my form. As shown, the form is oriented the way it would be if I wanted to pour a section of walkway. For this use,however, the form is inverted, so that the molded edge will be on the correct face of the stepping stone.

Step 3: Design the Name of Message to Use

First, I pick my font and point size on the computer....Then I print out the letters/message on a piece of cardstock or regular paper. The letters are then cut out with scissors. I have used previously cut letters to demonstrate, but it is the same for all projects.

Step 4: Glue or Pin Letters to a Foam Blank.

The choice depends on whether you want to resuse these letters. I have alphabets to use, so I pin them on the foam blank. If they are glued, they will be destroyed in the process. It's very easy to cut more, however.

Step 5: Cut Letters Out on the Hotwire

This takes a little practice, but not much. The difficulties might be in not setting the correct temperature on the cutting wire. Practice on a few extra letters, and it becomes very simple. Here is the message "welcome to my garden". It is orange simply because I use this foam for all kinds of signs, and I pre-paint some pieces if I know what colors I want. Obviously, the color doesn't matter as it will be removed with the styrofoam at the end.

Step 6: Place and Glue Letters on Bottom Board

Line out the letters accurately, as you want them to be as straight as possible simply for esthetic reasons. The letters must be flipped, right to left with the finish side of the letter facing or glued to the board. I use a mirror to check my work and insure that the letters are lined up correctly, and that they are not reversed. It's best to let the letters sit overnight if possible. I have had them float loose and disappear into the concrete! Hate when that happens.

Step 7: Mix Up a Batch of Concrete Mix With Colorant If Wanted

I use a standard mix of 3 parts sand to 1 part cement. If colorant is chosen, add to the water, and not the dry parts. How much colorant to use? I use about 2 tablespoons to 1 and a half cups of water, more or less. Not critical for sure. For the dry mixes, I use a regular 14oz. can, and for the stepping stone it takes about 7 cans of mix to complete the pour. Use a small amount of vegetable oil applied with an old brush to the mold sides as a release agent.

Step 8: Pour the Concrete Into the Mold.

Add about 1/3 of the thoroughly mixed water, cement, sand concoction. I tap the edges of the mold, and use a hammer to tap on the bottom (gently) so as to release any air bubbles.

Step 9: Let Set and Cure for 24-48 Hours

It's always best to go for the longer curing time. I do these on the floor of the garage, so they are not in direct sunlight as they dry/cure. From time to time I spray on some water so that the mix doesn't dry out too rapidly, and aids in the curing process.

Step 10: Remove From Mold and Clean Out Letters

To remove from mold, invert mold and stone, and gently shake stone loose. It should be about one and 1/4 to one and 1/2 inch thick and is very strong. However, letting it sit in the shade for a few days or more will allow it to cure to it's full strength. I usually let them sit for 3-4 days before removing the foam letters. To do this, I use "dental pick" tools for lack of a better description.

Step 11: Stepping Stones Are Ready for the Garden!

Voila! If everything comes together right, a nice stepping stone emerges! These can now be placed in the garden, incorporated in a sidewalk, or wherever they fit.

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    38 Discussions


    Question 10 months ago

    How do they hold up in the elements outside? I didn't see any mention of sealing the stones or don't they need to be sealed. We live in West Central WI .... freeze .... thaw .... repeat. Thanks, great tutorial.


    Question 1 year ago on Step 11

    You said the color doesn't matter because it is removed with the foam, but your finished stones show color. Is that paint or what?..

    1 answer

    Answer 1 year ago

    Thanks for your interest! My statement re: color not mattering refers to when you want to remove the letters as in step 10. You can leave the letters in as shown, but time and the elements will eventually erode the styrofoam,and any paint used. Hope that clarifies it for you.


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    What is lacquer thinner? Is it methanol or acetone or something else? Mineral spirits perhaps?


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Lacquer thinner is an acetone based solvent. Nail polish remover is essentially lacquer thinner. (which would work too.) It might save you quite a bit of time picking at the foam. A dip in some acetone solvent, and a rinse with water, and you should be done. It's probably worth a try on a small project.


    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Regular Styrofoam will dissolve easily in gasoline, as well.  I think that would be even cheaper than lacquer thinner or mineral spirits.


    8 years ago on Step 11

    Hi Creativeman If you put a bit of peat/soil in your concrete mix it would look a lot more natural--weather'ed, I've done this with an old sink in the garden (put sand, peat, concrete mix on It).............Very good idea, I like your way of lettering the concrete I'm going to give this a go. Graham56

    2 replies

    Reply 8 years ago on Step 11

    Thanks Graham56...I like your idea, any chance of seeing a picture of that sink? What are the ratios/volumes of the mix? Sounds good. Cman


    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    Hi Cman The mix for the sink are 1 part cement 1 and a half parts peat 1 and a half parts sand (sharp if you've got it) I'm having a bit of trouble uploading the pic's but you will get em--- er hang on----


    9 years ago on Introduction

    Has anyone tried doing it right-side up and pressing the foam letters in (forward-facing) and smoothing the surface? I am wondering what the avantages of doing it upside down are? Terry

    1 reply

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    I think the advantage to doing it upside down is that all the bubbles float to the top. If you want a perfectly smooth surface, put the foam pieces on the bottom of the mold.


    9 years ago on Introduction

    Now yanno CMan you put my garden stones to shame here. You did an excellent job on this, professional appearance. V+5. You can make one with my name on it anytiime (hint, hint - jk)