Pocket Knife Maintenance: Cleaning and Lubricating

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You've probably heard the old adage "a dull knife is a dangerous knife." I'd like to introduce a new adage: "a dirty knife is a dangerous knife." While the internals of a pocket knife are not overly complicated, the function of the knife can impeded by pocket lint, especially around the pivot and locking areas. In the case of the pivot, the knife may to slower or more difficult to open, and buildup in the area of the lock may prevent the knife from locking open or closed, which could lead to serious injury. Prolonged usage and exposure to gritty materials or salt water can even lead to permanent damage to the knife.

For these reasons, it's a good idea to perform regular maintenance on your pocket knives. I like to clean and lubricate mine once a month or so. This is also a great time to inspect your knife for other potential problems like corrosion on the blade or internal components, as well as checking for loose screws.

Step 1: Cleaning

As mentioned above, you'll want to focus on the pivot of the knife and the locking surfaces.

If you've just got some light pocket lint, you can usually use a toothpick, screwdriver, or other probe to remove it.

If you've got sand and grit, you'll likely want to use warm, soapy water and wash the knife with a bristle brush (I like to use an old toothbrush). If you do go this route, go ahead and brush down the entire knife including the blade and the handle scales. Often, this is all it takes to restore your handle scales to their original luster. Don't be afraid to get the internals wet or soapy, remember that's the most important area to clean. Just make sure to rinse well.

If the knife has an excess of sticky or grimy buildup that won't come out with either of these methods, try placing the knife in a bowl of warm water, which should help loosen the grime. A comment below from Instructable user Denger mentions that one should be careful or avoid using this method on knives using natural materials such as wood, abalone, or mother-of-pearl, and that even synthetic handles may be damaged if left for too long in water at or close to boiling temperatures. Then try the probing method, followed by the wash method. This should take care of even the toughest residue.

If your knife is still gritty or difficult to open, you may need to disassemble the knife for a more thorough cleaning, which we won't cover in this article. You will likely need specialty tools and the process will vary widely depending on what knife you're working on. Many knife manufacturers will also tell you that disassembling your knife will void your warranty.

If you have used either of the wet methods for cleaning your knife, be sure to wipe up any excess water and allow the knife to air-dry for at least 15 minutes before moving on to lubrication. Even if your knife uses stainless steel, it may still be subject to corrosion.

Step 2: Pick a Lubricant

Your pocket knife is a system with moving parts, and as with any such system must be lubricated, especially mating surfaces such as the pivot, locking surfaces, or slides.

The most popular lubricants are petroleum-based wet lubricants, and are essentially the same as gun lubricants or sewing machine oil, although they will claim attributes which make them superior to their competitors. Two great choices would be Sentry Solutions Tuff Glide or Benchmade Blue Lube, which I use primarily because it is available to me.

Dry lubricants are often PTFE (teflon)-based and tend to attract less pocket lint. They typically come in either an aerosol can for spray-on application or as a grease tube, and dry on the surface leaving a protective, lubricating film. A few examples would be Super Lube, Miltec, or Chris Reeve Fluorinated Grease.

It is important to remember that if your intend to use your pocket knife for food preparation, such as cutting up an apple, you may want to use a food-safe lubricant. You can use simple vegetable oil, but it isn't very stable and may go rancid. Food-safe mineral oils (such as wood block oil) tend to work well. Here's one great choice. Plain jane food-grade mineral oil should be available at your local pharmacy (as suggested by several commenters) for cheap also. Personally, I use the petroleum-based stuff just fine. I apply oil sparingly at the pivot, wipe up any and all excess, and rarely find it escaping out into a pocket or onto the blade where it could come into contact with food stuffs. But to each her own!

Step 3: Apply Your Lubricant

When applying your lubricant, your mantra should be "a little goes a long way." Open the knife and apply a drop or two of oil (or a light spray if using a teflon-based dry lubricant) to your pivot and start rotating or cycling the blade (opening and closing repeatedly) to work the lubricant in. With lockback or midlock knives like my Spyderco, you'll want to target the tang of the blade where it meets the lockbar. With liner locks such as the pictured CRKT, you can apply your lubricant on the underside, again making sure to get the locking faces and working it into the pivot.

Your goal is to use just enough lubricant to spread throughout the target area (usually the pivot or locking surfaces) without seeping out onto the handle or blade. An excess of lubricant, especially oily wet lubricants, will actually attract pocket lint and other material, meaning you'll have to clean your knife more often.

If the blade of your knife is made of a high carbon steel (either a high-carbon stainless or a true carbon steel) you may also want to use a preventative coat of lubricant on the blade itself, especially if you use it in or around water or live in an area with exceptionally high humidity. While the Japanese ZDP-189 used in my Spydercos is about 3% carbon (two-to-three times the carbon content of most stainless steels) it is also about 20% chromium, and since I clean my knives regularly, I don't bother coating the blades.

If your knife has wood handle scales such as a Buck model 110, consider rubbing them down with a wood polish or finishing oil such as Danish or Linseed oil.

Wipe off any excess oil and enjoy your knife! For further reading, check out this article at KnifeCenter.

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    45 Discussions

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    Denger

    5 years ago on Introduction

    Good 'structable. One note of caution: unless the knife in question is of all-metal construction I would NEVER recommend using boiling (or near boiling) hot water to soak or clean it, no matter how dirty it is. Many knife handles made from synthetic materials will be irreparably damaged by doing so, as will handles made from wood or other organic materials, such as abalone or mother-of pearl.

    I've found a moist cotton swab often performs better at removing debris and lint build-up from the knife's channel and crevices than do toothpicks, screwdriver blades, etc. and cotton swabs cause little to no scratching.

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    kennethsimeDenger

    Reply 5 years ago on Introduction

    Good note on the cotton swab. Especially useful for collector's pieces. My knives are 64 RC so a screwdriver isn't going to scratch anything. :p

    I've done some more reading, and edited the note about boiling water. I've used it successfully before without melting polymer handles, in particular Victorinox Swiss Army Knives and Spyderco FRN handles. I think I actually got the suggestion from a Victorinox manual or FAQ page, but the closest I can find now is to place your SAK into a pot of warm water. This is what I've edited it to, with a note about natural materials (and credit to yourself, hope that's ok). I really appreciate the helpful criticism.

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    AndrewS339

    Tip 8 months ago on Step 3

    With my wood and brass knives, I use a buffing wheel on my bench grinder to bring back the shine to both the brass and the wood. Doesn't really do much for the blade, so I don't consider it worth the risk of catching on the wheel while open and throwing my knife at me at 100 mph.

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    BrettC24

    2 years ago

    (I love it when ignorant people say "a dull knife is more dangerous than
    a sharp one" so I can call them out on not knowing beans about what
    "sharp" really is.)

    http://my5choices.com/best-video-baby-monitor

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    BrettC24,

    Thought you might enjoy my post (above) on the old adage. Many years ago, when I was quite young, sayings like, "A dull knife, is a dangerous knife" were actually very good wisdom because men used their knives routinely. Even the laziest of men usually sharpened their knives with some regularity because they were carried daily and considered a necessity. If you had a conversation with a gentleman, whether you knew him previously or not, you were wise to notice how he handled his knife, dullness could mean he knew how to use a knife better than you, and back in those days, that was information that fell into the need to know category!

    Fun fact: The old adage about a dull knife being a dangerous knife has nothing to do with the potential effects of a sharp blade itself. The fact that a blade is dull is a sign that the knife is likely used regularly by the carrier. Therefore, whether the knife is dull, or still in need of it's routine sharpening, you might be wise to show deference to the skillful carrier!! ;) <3 knives #girlswithstiletos

    Anyone who uses/carries a knife on a regular basis should know (or go now and learn) how to disassemble, clean, and maintain it, if physically possible. All of my Gerbers can be completely taken down; +1 for them. One of my $10 knockoffs is probably the smoothest opening folder I've ever used....absolutely fantastic. I have yet to see anyone who "lubricates" the blade itself...it seems rather pointless unless you're storing it/etc.

    (I love it when ignorant people say "a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one" so I can call them out on not knowing beans about what "sharp" really is.)

    6 replies

    The downside to taking apart your knives, especially with less expensive ones, is that should you lose or damage a piece (let's say a T6 torx screw) you may or may not be able to replace it readily. With the higher-end production knives like Spyderco, Kershaw, Benchmade, you can bet that he manufacturer has you covered in terms of spare parts, although your warranty will usually be void when you disassemble the knife. On top of this, you can usually get your knife clean without disassembling it, and if that's true, then why bother going through the effort and risk?

    With high-carbon knives made in CPM M-4 High Speed Tool Steel, Hitachi's Aogami Super Blue, 1095 High Carbon, or even the Opinel carbon steel blades, it's a good idea to coat the blade in a protective moisture barrier to prevent rust. TuffCloth is a good solution, it comes packaged as a soaked cloth you wipe the blade down with. Alternatively, some people will force a premature patina on the blades, to prevent a more serious, corrosive rust forming. I would do some research before trying this though.

    I would argue that a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one, at least in the kitchen. With a dull knife you're more likely to be using more force in a less controlled manner which means you're more likely to lose control of the blade. A sharp knife will cut through your material (let's say onion) with ease, allowing very light strokes, and if you do happen to slip there won't be as much force behind it.

    The other side is that sharp knives tend to leave smaller, deeper cuts which are cleaner, and heal more quickly than large jagged tears. There are of course many variables at work, but I would stand by "a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one."

    In either case, thanks for your comments! It's always fun to talk knives.

    So far I have yet to lose any parts after multiple times....but finding out how it's supposed to fit back together is half the fun. You can't really get the dirt that gets around and in between the spacers until you take it apart. Also helps to lubricate them directly before putting it back together.

    Apparently Gerber will send replacement pieces as long as they are not from the "inside".


    As far as "dull" knives, I would consider that to be something on par with a butter knife. One that will not cut at all for most intents and purposes (jump to moron trying to cut bread with a door stop). IE. it should never get to that point...and isn't going to hurt you unless you stab yourself in the eye . Most people that cut themselves are either not watching their fingers, are using flat out terrible technique, or are using too much force because they haven't properly sharpened it or had it sharpened. As someone who has cut himself more times than he can remember, I can say that an injury from a truly sharp knife can heal faster, but it can also end up being worse depending on how it happens.

    Is there a group for knife discussion yet?

    RANDOM KNIFE IMAGE!
    WAAAAAAAAY EXPENSIVE (but oooh it's so good)

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    Sanderguy777explosivemaker

    Reply 2 years ago

    I cut myself the other day with a kitchen knife that I had hair shaving sharp. I have a finger with an 1/8 inch less skin now..... it stung too much, i need to sharpen it more!

    Is that $10 knock off a Sanrenmu? I got one of those and a Buck 110 at the same time. They both came razor sharp out of the box and hold an edge very well. I understand people saying that Sanrenmu steals designs, but they sure do a good job of making knives that work well. It is SMOOTHER opening than my Buck and cost 70% less!!! (I like Buck. DUH, this is my second 110 and my 4th Buck! But I will definitely grab another Sanrenmu.)

    What should I use to oil the innards of my Sanrenmu 7010? I don't want to disassemble, could I just use WD-40? I want something food grade. What should I do?

    Thanks

    I used to lubricate all aspects of my Stretch2 when I disassembled it, including the phosphor bronze washers, and it was pretty smooth. But the downside was that even after wiping up all the excess I could, I ended up attracting far more grit and lint than before, so had to disassemble it more frequently. Now I don't bother disassembling it 99% of the time, just add a drop or two of lubricant every month or so; I'm pretty happy with the results.

    I'm fairly careful, and I've been working on/with this particular knife for about two years, but I ended up stripping out two clip screws and one body screw over that time period. In fact it's currently sitting with two clip screws instead of three because I took the clip off to polish it recently and dropped one onto the carpet. Lucky for me, Spyderco sells replacement parts; I've ordered two clip/screw sets and one full parts kit so far. I must congratulate you if you've managed not to lose anything from your many knives after disassembling them so frequently.

    We have slightly different ideas of what constitutes a dull knife, for me it's when the knife won't cut lightweight paper (such as phone book paper) without tearing. But I'm a little OCD, and have access to a professional knife sharpener who likes me.

    Hmmm. I try to make sure they don't get too dusty; limit the breakdowns for when I can feel or hear a difference with the blade movement. Most do pretty well with opening except when they get a bit loose (playing with them too much). But when you get it to just the right spot....mmmmm.


    Touching up with paper wheel?

    I know the sweet spot! I adjust my pivot more than I ought to to keep it just perfect. I hear loctite helps, but I haven't used that on anything but clip screws.

    The guy who sharpens for me uses a number of things, but I think mostly he sharpens on slack sanding belts and finishes on ceramic for a nice toothy edge. I'll touch 'em up in the mean time with a Spyderco Sharpmaker.

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    AntonyA1

    4 years ago on Introduction

    I actually like all the tips you gave on pocket knife upkeep and care. Great data, particularly for something that several individuals overlook. That is truly beneficial! i now should get a suitable knife to sharpen :). I'll be operating publishing a few far more on pocket knife maintenance shortly. I've barely diverse tips of what constitutes a dull knife, for me it's when the knife won't cut lightweight paper (such as telephone e-book paper) without tearing. But I'm a little OCD, and have access to a specialist knife sharpener who likes me.

    Apparently, Gerber and Smith and Wesson have launched among the well-liked knife sharpeners which might be beneficial to make cleansing a straightforward activity. Is there any specific techniques to clean Best Survival Knife or these tips are applicable for all kinds of knives? I might like so as to add one particular far more point that you have missed.

    Try To Wipe Down The Blade By Making use of Oiled Cloth Smoothly.

    This tip will aid to preserve the sting retention of the blade for long interval and remain sharp without end. However, cautious with your palms even though cleansing!

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    jelte1234

    4 years ago on Step 3

    Something that also works to keep a blade from rusting is to use it to slice some dried sausage. it will apply a thin layer of food-safe (duh) fat onto the blade, that will keep it from rusting.

    (note: If you leave it for years I cannot guarantee it will not go bad, but I believe it won't)

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    jelte1234

    4 years ago on Step 2

    Ballistol works great too!

    it's disinfectant, (you could use it inside a wound), it's good for your skin, great for wood, keeps metal from rusting, and lubes as well. it's also great as gun oil, and I personally like the smell.

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    sirbill

    5 years ago on Step 2

    my EXPERIENCE : use Coconut Oil. It is A wonderful LUBRICATOR! I have found that it works well with EVERYTHING ! I am as serious as a Heart~Attack.!