Potters Kick Wheel




Here are some ideas for building a kick wheel potters wheel.

Looked at a several ideas on the web and in books and built this combining the best features yet keeping it simple.

What I used:
2 1/2 50lb bags of concrete
Garden Edging or other suitable material
5/8" mild steel shaft 3" long (cut off 4" save for concrete work)
1x Bearing, 2 hole pillow block, with 2 set screws
1x Bearing, 4 hole flat, with 2 set screws
3x 5/8" Shaft Collars, with 2 set screws (two on top of the shaft over the stone would work better than one)
Wood Screws
4x ??? round head square shank top Bolts
4x Carriage Bolts
6x Lag Bolts (bearing hold down)
12x Fender Washers
6x washers (for between lag bolt head and bearing)
6x Nylock nuts
White exterior paint
Urethane or varnish



4x 15" L - for foot rests
4 or 6 or 8 x 6" L seat supports = 1 or 2 or 3 height positions for seat


8x 36" L - for front / back / sides of base
2x 30" for base bearing support
1x 48" L for top
1x 30" L for seat front
1x 30" L for step foot cross bar
2x 4" L for step foot pads
2x 14" L for step side supports
2x 7" L for step side support braces


2x48" L for top
4x 32" L for table supports
2x 36" L for seat supports
1x48" L for top bearing support/inside table edge
1x 27" L for seat rear
1x 30" L for step side support upper rear brace

1" Plywood

1x 18" circle for head
2x 6" circle for top stone and under head support
1x 18" circle for bottom support for stone

1/2" Wooden Dowel

2x 1" L to secure removable top plate

16" top plate (bought this at a pottery store)

Made a simple circle cutting jig and used a small band saw for wood circles.

Used a nail, stick, and trim router to a route 1/8" circle slot on 3/4" plywood so I could insert plastic garden edging to create a form for the concrete kick-wheel. A few nails secured the edging into the slot and some mechanics wire secured the overlapped edging material to itself. Poured it in our basement in December, covered it with plastic and performed a wet cure for ~2wks before rolling it up the stairs for assembly. The kick-wheel weighs around 115lbs which is somewhere with in the ideal weight for such things according to my research.

Hope this gives you some good ideas!


Step 1:

Nail a board to the center of a plywood board and attach a trim router to one end so you can make a circle 1/8" wide.

Remove the nailed board and drill a hole at the center point part way through the plywood the size of your shaft (5/8" in mild steel works).

Insert a 4+ inch piece of shaft into the hole you drilled (I had a piece left over after cutting the round bar to size).

Cut garden edging to fit with a bit of overlap then punch a couple of holes at each end.

Insert it into the slot and wire the ends together.

Fill with concrete (~115 lbs finished) and wet cure it.  We did this in the basement during the winter with out much mess or fuss.

Step 2:

Step 3: Table Top and Inside Top Bearing Support Layout

Here is a diagram showing the layout of the top and the inside top bearing support (bottom of image).

The black dots represent screw locations.

Step 4:



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12 Discussions


Question 8 months ago on Step 4

Hello from Japan. Sorry if I missed this information, but I am wondering if the bottom of the wheel rests on the floor, or just on the bottom support? Thank you! Please reply to: unher@icloud.com


5 years ago on Introduction

What is this used for? Or rather how... I'd be great if you added a quick description of what the item does as I have no idea because I am completely new to this pottery thing xD

1 reply

Reply 2 years ago

It is a kick pottery wheel...look up some videos on youtube for tutorials. I'm going to make one of these for myself.


Joe Rader

3 years ago on Introduction

Thanks, Scott. Good job, man. I'll let you know how it turns out. It'll be a few months as I'm new to ceramics and have a learning curve to overcome. Tomorrow, I'm wiring in the 240v circuit for my kiln. Then I'll start on some projects involving slab, slip, and push molding before I tackle wheel throwing. I appreciate your timely response.

All the best,



3 years ago on Introduction

I made a couple of changes (updated the docs). Went from 4" to 6" plywood circles to support the stone. Would add a second shaft collar over the stone to help keep it from loosening up... on mine I filed a little slot on the shaft for the set screws on my single collar to grab into. Otherwise repeated kicking was loosening the stone on the shaft.

Joe Rader

3 years ago on Introduction

swares, 2 quick questions so I can acquire the parts:

1. Is the bottom bearing also called a "flange bearing"? I couldn't find a reference to a flat bearing in the catalog but the flange bearing looked like it.

2. It looks to me that the weight of the wheel, the shaft, the head and clay will be supported by the two set screws in the bottom bearing. Do I have it right or did I miss something? (I'm not much of an engineer so please forgive my ignorance)



1 reply
swaresJoe Rader

Reply 3 years ago on Introduction

1. Yes, it is a 4 bolt flange bearing with two set screws.

2. It is supported by the set screws in both bearings. I considered dropping a large ball bearing under the shaft for it to sit on but that has not seemed to be needed.

The target weight for the stone was around 116lbs.

I tilted the insides of the bottom bearing towards me using the shaft before I attached it to the stone. Then I attached to stone to the shaft then slid the shaft into the bottom bearing and tightened the set screws. Slide the top bearing over the shaft and tighten the set screws. Tilt it up against the table and secure the top bearing.

A second set collar over the top of the stone on the shaft may help keep the stone from loosening on the shaft during use.




4 years ago on Step 4

love it! So simple I think I could make one. These things cost a small fortune.


4 years ago on Introduction

Nice project. Can you sort of offer an overall estimate of dimensions once it is complete? Thank you!


5 years ago on Introduction

With this kick wheel potters wheel you put a ball of clay on the top plate. The top plate is smooth for your hands and removable so you can remove the pot or cup or pitcher or whatever you make with out it being harmed. The seat is adjustable. You sit down and spin the top plate I use my right foot on the top of the stone pushing it forward away from me with my foot... return foot and push again. The inertia of the spinning stone keeps everything spinning as you work the clay... so it doesn't take much work to keep it going.