RGB Alienware Headphone Stand




About: Hi, I am crazy about creating things with my crazy mind. I love making unique things that can entertain, inspire and educate you .checkout my youtube channel for more awesome builds & be sure to subscribe.

In this instructable, I am going to show you how to make an Alienware headphone stand with RGB LED inside it. So this is definitely not a new idea, couple years back I made this stand with simple Power Tools but at that time I didn't record the build video that's why I decided to make Mark II of Alienware headphones stand and in this build I not only made this stand but make a couple of changes by knowing the problems occur in the last build. The main problem in the last build is the size of the head. When I am going to Mount the headphone over the stand for one day and when I see the next day the shape of the headphone slightly changed and the fitting become loose and this all just happen because of the size of the head, it's quite big relative to the size which its really needs off. The second problem is that I don't want the Dome nut at the opposite side which is acting as a facing side of the stand and I want it completely clear without any drilled holes. I also change the base of the stand which is quite similar to the Alienware CPU case. Overall I 'm happy with the result came this time and completely satisfy all the needs. So if you like this build then don't forget to share your valuable feedback. I always felt blessed by reading your comments. If you have any suggestion for me then please post your comments too.

Step 1: ​Design:-

The design of the stand is quite similar to the previous build but smaller in size. The major changes happened in the base of the stand which is slightly triangular in shape rather than the circle. I also machined Alienware text in alien font in the base of the stand so that when the LED glows the font also lighten up. I also decided to make eyes for the stand which I think definitely a great move and increase the beauty of the head a lot. Before this build I decided to use 3 acrylic pieces for the head having thickness half inch but then at the end use two of them to reduce the bulkiness of the head. You can make this stand with power tools as well but it's quite difficult to write those text cleanly on to the stand.

Step 2: ​Material and Tools Used

Following is the list of material which is used in this build. Although you are free to use whatever material you want, if you are using an acrylic then always go with Cast acrylic rather than extrude acrylic sheet.

1. Brazilian Ipe wood

2. Half inch thick acrylic

3. 2-inch diameter acrylic rod 3 inch long

4. Counter head Allen screw.

5. Casting resin for eyes. (Optional)

6. RGB 5050 LED strip with controller and power adaptor.

7. 4 core wire for connection.

8. Aluminium tape.

9. Glue gun.

10. Linseed oil

Tools used:-

Following are the list of tools which are used in this build.

1. 3 Axis CNC machine

2. End Mills.

3. Drill press

4. Drill bits

5. Core drill

6. M6 tap.

7. Soldering iron

8. Allen key

9. Counter bit

Step 3: ​Cutting Down of Material

So, first of all, I got down the material to the required length which I needed to make the stand. The dimensions of material Cut for the head portion is 160 x 135 mm. And for the base is 135 x 135 mm. For the acrylic portion, I cut out a big sheet of acrylic by assuming the dimensions so that 3 pieces can be cut out easily from that sheet. For the base, I got 135 x 135 mm acrylic piece. In the beginning, before started this build I decided to put 3 pieces of acrylic in the head portion but half-inch thick acrylic made the design slightly bulky that's why to reduce that bulkiness I decided to choose two pieces. For the neck portion, I use 2-inch diameter acrylic rod as neck whose length is 3 inches. Although you can use any size of the acrylic rod and make sure to keep its proportion with the head or anything below which this rod has to be installed. Otherwise, it looks quite awkward.

Step 4: ​Machining the Stand.

Once everything has been cut out I started the machining preparations. For that, I apply double sided tape on one side so that my workpiece can be easily hold down to the bed so that I can machine onto it. Then I marked the centre location so I may know the zero coordinates. Once the workpiece has been Mount on to the CNC I first start machining that text. For the text I choose engraving V bit. I choose those engraving bits because they have capability to do the detail work. The flat depth has been kept is 4 mm. For the font, I choose alien fonts to match the complete build with my theme. Once the text has been machined I move on to the next step in which I am profiling the base of the stand. The design I choose is similar to the Alienware CPU cases. In the middle of the base, I slightly change the design and made two boundaries in which resin has been filled. The plan was that when light lightens up that portion starts glowing. Since it is a CNC project that's why there is not a ton of work to do in the main part of the build. Once the basic shape of the base has been cut out I cut same design on a piece of acrylic which I sandwiched in between those two wooden pieces. In top two layers I cut 2 inch diameter hole so that I can fix the neck into my base. Then I move on to the cutting of headpieces for the stand. The shape is quite similar to the Alienware logo. Once I cut down all the pieces for my stand I start machining onto the back side of the pieces in which I am going to install the LED. For that I made a jig so that I can hold my job and then machine backside of those portion where I am going to install the LED strip so that they will not create any problem during the installation. I insert my pieces into the jig and to make them rigid during the machining process glued up them with hot glue. I also make sure not to machine too much wide area because I have to drill holes for joining all parts together to make a solid stand. I also machine an area equal to the dimension of my controller beneath the previous machined area for the led strip so that I can also embed this inside my stand to make the build cleaner.

Step 5: Cleaning and Sending the Tabs

Once all the parts have been cut down I cut the tabs and remove excess material. Then I remove the remaining tab portion with the help of files and sandpaper to make it cleaner. You can also use a trim router for this process.

Step 6: Neck Preparations and Connection

When everything has been cleaned I stack the head pieces together and wrap a stretch tape around the headpieces and clamp them together so that they will not sleep during the drilling process. To get perfect drilling line I hold the head into the voice and make it perpendicular to the drill. For the hole, I am using 2-inch diameter hole saw. Since I am using a hole saw that's why the parts are not going to separate from each other that's why to separate them apart I use my CNC and Jigsaw so that I can install the neck into the stand. For the neck, I am using 2 inch diameter acrylic rod. Since the rod is too long that's why I need to trim it down and for that, I used my mitre saw with a lot of water to ease the cutting process and cut down the rod up to 3 inches long. Then I mark the centre onto the rod and centre punch and drill 10 mm diameter hole so that I can feed the wire. Since I am using extrude acrylic for my project that's why I use plenty of water to keep the material cool during the cutting and drilling process. It's good to use Cast acrylic for these kinds of work. Since the middle hole is used for fastening the neck that's why I made two tapered holes meeting the main hole so that I can feed the wire from the base to the headpieces.

For the connection of head and neck piece I use 10 mm diameter thread rod piece. I clean the acrylic pieces and make them flat so that neck will lie on to it completely flush. Then I feed the wire through the holes. Always make sure to keep your wires slightly big then you actually needed. Then I insert shrinking tube so that the bottom wires remain together and serve as 1 wire. Then with the help of 2 Part epoxy, I join them together permanently.

Step 7: ​Installation of LED.

Then I move on to the installation of RGB LED. Here I am using RGB 5050 LED strip with a microcontroller. I remove the waterproofing covering from the strip and then cut them into the required section so that I can lay the LED into my pieces. But before that to make the surface reflector I use aluminium tape as a reflector and stick it all over the visible area so that light will scatter outside and creates a glowing effect. I remove the protective covering of the controller and also remove the plastic casing around the power connector to make it slightly thin so that I can feed this connector through the acrylic base portion. After removing the plastic its size reduces to 7 mm. Then I drill a hole of 8 mm and check the fitting of the connector and everything works fine for me. Then I start soldering the strips together in the series so that they will lighten up. I also slightly change the direction of the infrared sensor to slightly raised above so that it will receive the signals from the acrylic part of the base. Once the connection has been done I check them and make sure every strip glow and sensor works fine. Then I secure the connection with hot glue and make them permanent. Once the connection has been done I connect the headpiece with the neck wire. It's quite difficult but somehow I manage to do that and then again check the wire connections.

Step 8: Making Eyes

Once the pieces are joined together I decided to make 3D textured eyes for my stand and for that I cast a slab with glow in dark powder in it. Then I machine for eyes for my stand for both front and back side. I give the eyes 3D textured machine finish. For the machining I choose .5 mm diameter tapered ball mill with a stepover of .5 mm to get this type of texture. Then by a little bit of sending, I am able to install the eyes into the cavity. And its looks very beautiful. With the help of CA glue, I install the eyes into that cavity permanently with some light blow of mallet.

Step 9: Drilling the Holes for the Joinery

Once the neck has been attached to the head I clamped both wooden pieces with the acrylic head and then wrap stretch tape all around so that pieces will not move during the drilling process. Then I mark the location where I need to drill holes and centre punch all of them. Then I drill 5 mm holes but not throughout and keep them 10 mm above from the bottom. Then I tap each hole individually because the length of the tap is not too long I need to separate them and tap them individually. I also counter the holes because I am using M6 counter Head Allen screws. Then I made the headpiece a single unit tightening all of the screws. Make sure that not to over tighten these screw because there might be a chance of wood splitting or acrylic cracking.

Step 10: Completing the Base

Then I start preparation for pouring resin into the base. For that, I cover open ends with the help of tape and make sure that no place left for the escapement of resin. Then I mix polyurethane resin and pour it into my base. To avoid any air bubble I use the heat gun to popup the bubbles. Then I allow it to cure for 24 hours. Once the resin has been cured I sand off all the excess resin and make the surface flat from both sides. With this process, most of the aluminium tape has been scrape off and it's quite difficult to stick new one that's why I decided to leave it as it is. I also insert the power connector into the acrylic base and glue it permanently with two-part epoxy. Then I sandwich all three layers together and wrap them with stretch tape. Then I mark the centre of the hole location and drill 3 holes into the bass counter drill and tap them as well. After that, I fasten the screws to make the solid base.

Step 11: Sanding

Once everything has been finished I send off all the edges up to 400 grit sandpaper to make all the layer blend together. With this process, the acrylic also defuses a bit and start to scatter more light. I also diffuse the neck too. The same process has been repeated with the base of the stand as well.

Step 12: Final Assembly and Finishing.

Once everything has been sanded off I prepare them for the Assembly. First I glue the neck with the top portion of the base with two-part epoxy and insert the neck into the hole with some light blow of Mallet. Then I solder the wires with the controller and fasten the screw into the bass and make the stand complete. Then with the help of linseed oil, I apply 3 coats to make the surface looks shiny. The final result is in front of you.

So this is what I made after some effort and very happy to see the overall result. If you like this build then don't forget to leave your valuable feedback in the comment area.

Step 13: Finally

So this is what I made after some effort and very happy to see the overall result. If you like this build then don't forget to leave your valuable feedback in the comment area.

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    10 Discussions

    AMbros CustomNadia2109

    Answer 4 months ago

    Hahaha..... You can buy it but not right now. So many people's are asking me for buying this stand but I dismantle my old cnc machine and currently working on six Axis CNC machine. So at this time this thing wasn't possible but once my new powerful'machine completed I am going to made these stands. Currently this is in beta stage but I have advanced design for this. Which I think you would definitely like if you can wait.


    1 year ago

    Very cool! Much appreciated from this Alienware/Headphone/RGB fanboy.

    1 reply
    Mini onion

    1 year ago

    cool project i like it and might make it for a freind

    1 reply

    1 year ago

    Do you watch the "secureteam 10" channel on YOUTUBE? Your alien head looks a lot like his logo.

    1 reply
    AMbros Customjoen

    Reply 1 year ago

    Just watch it by reading your comment, although it's Alienware official logo from which I made this build.