Intro: Robot Voice Modulator
This is a simple to build device that converts your own human voice into a superior robot voice. It also includes a number of sweet features like an audio-in jack so that you can plug in all of your favorite instruments, microphones and music players, a vibrato mode and awesome pitch shifting buttons. It can be shifted two whole octaves in either direction. This provides for endless hours of fun (at the expense of everyone around you).
To here some crazy robot and pitch shifting action check out the file posted below.
Step 1: Go Get Stuff
You will need:
- And IKEA clock body
- An adjustable fluorescent desk lamp
- A HT8950 voice modulator
- A PCB
- An 18-pin socket
- 4 SPST buttons
- Condenser mic
- Parts for the circuit (see next step for details)
- 2 1/8" audio jacks
- A power source
- Misc hardware
Step 2: The Circuit
Breadboard the "HT8950 with a Transistor Output Stage and a 6V Power Supply" circuit found in the official data sheet minus the transistor output stage. Instead, wire that to an audio out jack.
Then solder the circuit onto a PCB, temporarily omitting things like the microphone, audio jacks and switches. This will be added later.
You can test to make sure the board works by adding extra hookup wires for the audio jacks and microphone and connecting them through a breadboard.
Step 3: Get Bendy Arm
Take apart your fluorescent desk lamp and remove the nifty bend arm.
Don't remove the lamp wire from inside the arm. You will need this to hook up your microphone. Therefore, don't trim it too close.
Leave the mounting bracket still attached at the bottom of the arm.
Step 4: Bracket Stencil
Cut out a bracket stencil using the attached file.
If you happen to have an awesome Epilog laser cutter like we do at Instructables than you can use that to cut out the pattern onto a piece of tape. If you don't, an Exacto knife will do.
Place this pattern onto what you feel will be the back edge of the robot voice machine.
Drill out all of the holes with a power drill.
Step 5: Control Panel
Laser cut a control panel out of awesome transparent side-glow yellow acrylic using the file below.
If you don't have an awesome Epilog laser cutter than you can get the same effect with a jigsaw and a power drill with appropriate size bits.
Place the plastic clock face upside down inside the clock body and then rest the yellow piece snugly on top of it.
Step 6: Buttons
Insert your push buttons into the acrylic. Wire together ground to all of the buttons and the other wire to the respective pins on the PCB.
Step 7: Mount the Bracket
Mount the bendable arm to the clock body using nuts and bolts.
Step 8: Microphone
Mount a nice-looking fitting at the end of the bendable arm and then solder and glue the microphone inside of it.
Step 9: Drill Some More Holes
Insert the clock face upside down into the clock body. Drill four holes to match into the upside down clock body to match the mounting holes in the corners of your PCB.
Step 10: Plugs
Cut holes in the backside of the clock body such that you can mount your power jack, audio jacks and power switch.
Step 11: Mount the Circuit
Pass the extra hookup wires for the microphone, jacks and power through the mounting holes in the PCB and subsequently through the holes you just drilled in the clock face.
Continue passing them through the clock body until they are out the back of the case. Twist them together to tie the board in place.
Step 12: Glue
Put a little bit of hot glue between the side of the front panel and the clock body at various points around the edge of the case.
Step 13: Wire It Up
Wire up the switch to toggle between the audio in jack and the microphone.
Wire the power to the power wires and the audio out out jack to the audio out wires.
Step 14: Plug and Play
Turn it on and let your owl rock out on the dance (apartment) floor intergalactic robot-styly.