SPARE TIRE MOUNT BACK ON THE NOSE OF VW BUS

Hello!

I will show you how to install the spare wheel in front of the VW Bus. This instructable serves both the T1 version and the T2 version of this vehicle.

In my case, I am doing this to have more free area inside the vehicle as it will be turning into a mini motor home.

The design is extremely simple, inexpensive and most important, reversible, and the vehicle can be returned to its original configuration.

In addition, it is extremely inexpensive, using the vehicle's spare wheel attachment, a few screws, nuts and washers, and internal threaded rivets.

The need to fix the bracket in this way is that there is no access from inside the vehicle to place nuts on the bolts, since there is an air box welded from the inside.
There are several tutorials on the internet showing how to make a stand for the spare wheel.

But in my coke, there are no expenses with purchases of metal bars and welds.

And, the biggest advantage, there are no excessive holes in the car bodywork, because as I said, the process is reversible.

As I live in Brazil, I will present the metric scale measurements used here. For those who use imperial scale, just do the conversion.

Step 1: Step One: List of Materials:

List of materials:

6 screws M6x30mm

6 nuts M6

6 plain washers

6 pressure washers

6 drawers with internal thread (thread M6)

List of Tools:

Drilling machine

Drills (4.0mm, 6.0mm and 9.0mm)

Common riveter (these are used for cast aluminum rivets, the most common).

10mm star wrench

Step 2: Step Two: REMOVING THE SPARE WHEEL HOLDER

Let's remove the steppe holder from its original place. There are 4 M8mm screws.
Then we removed the front emblem from the vehicle. This is applied with double-sided tape. So just use a screwdriver and gradually take off.

Step 3: Step Three: Make the Holes

Already without the emblem, it is observed in the bodywork that there is a high relief that circumvents the emblem. As the spare wheel holder is larger than the diameter of this high relief, I used a plate that would stay inside the relief, avoiding its crushing when tightening the holder. The sheet used was of metal, with a thickness of 0.6mm.
This bracket should be centered (both vertically and horizontally) on the circle where the VW emblem was located.
Once the position was defined, I made the marking to pass the screws only inside the circle. So, if you want to return the originality of the car, there will be no apparent holes, since the emblem will hide them.
I made three holes on each side (in the vertical direction) in both the support and the plates that will serve as spacers (not to knead the high relief of the emblem).
Based on these holes, I punctured the bodywork of the vehicle. The rivet has an outside diameter of 9.0mm. Then use a bead of the same size. You can not make a hole that is much larger in diameter than the rivet, since it does not expand as much as the common rivet rivets.

Step 4: Step Four: Modifying the Riveter

With the drilling ready, it is time to adapt the riveter to pull the rivets with internal thread.
The procedure is quite simple.
The "common" riveter has a forceps (divided into two parts) and a spring.
This makes sure the rivet rod is secured and the riveter can pull the rivet body.
In the case of the internal threaded rivet, a screw of the same thread size (in this case an M6x90mm allen screw) is used for the draw rod.
Then simply dismantle the riveter and remove the spring and tweezers and place the allen screw in place.
A specific riveter for this type of rivet costs in Brazil starting at US $ 200.00.
I think it is not possible to invest in this tool that will not be used frequently. And the purpose of this instructables is to make the adaptation of the cheapest, practical and safe that can be done.

Step 5: Step Five:

Make the adjustment of the riveter, thread the rivet at the tip of the screw and use the tool in the normal way. When you can no longer print force to close the rivet rods, it is because the rivet has expanded what is needed.
To remove the bolt, simply turn with an Allen wrench.
The spacer bars need to have the holes drilled since the rivets have a larger head than the body to avoid escaping from the part where they will be attached.
Without this procedure, the spacer bars will not touch the can of the vehicle, not taking the proper support, making force only on the rivets.
For the chamfer, I used a 12.5mm droplet.

Step 6: Step Six: Installing the Stand

With the six rivets in place, simply attach the spare wheel holder (and shim plates behind it) with the M6x30mm bolts. I used a flat washer and a washer for each bolt.
As an option - but very welcome - use glue locking screw on the screws.

Step 7: Step Seven:

With the bracket already installed, simply place the spare wheel propped on the bumper and attach its center with the original washer and nut of the vehicle.

It is up to each of us to put a protection on the bumper to prevent the tire from damaging the paint.

The cost with the materials was around $ 2.00, with the bolts, washers and rivets.

I hope you enjoy this instructable and it can be useful.