Introduction: Sawbuck

About: A little bit of everything

A sawbuck is a stand used for cutting up logs into firewood. The other methods I've used to cut up firewood either involve bending over and cutting and rolling the log on the ground, or having someone who is very trusting (or stupid) hold the log off the back of a truck or saw horse. I couldn't find a decent plan for building a sawbuck (not that it's all that complicated) so here's one to get you started. 

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Step 1: Materials

I didn't want my sawbuck breaking when I dropped 8' long 14" diameter maple logs onto it, so I used 4x4s for the main frame, but if you are just using it to cut up smaller stuff, you can probable get away with 2x4s or you can even use logs of whatever size you want, but dimensional lumber is easier to work with in my opinion.


3- 4x4 x 8'
4- 2x4 x 8'
3- 3/8" by 6" bolts with nuts and washers
hand full of 3" screws

I used leftovers from a deck so everything is treated lumber, and I also used galvanized bolts and the green deck screws, so this puppy is gonna last a while.


Circular saw
Drill w/ drive bit for screws
3/8" spade bit
1 1/2" spade bit
Ratchet and socket to fit the nuts
Tape measure
Speed square
Flat and level ground for assembly

Step 2: Start Cutting

So first thing you want to do is to cut all 3 4x4s in half, then mark them at about 32" for drilling out the bolt hole.  First drill the hole with a 3/8" bit all the way through, then bore out about an 3/4" deep with a 1 1/2" bit to keep the bolt from sticking out.  Then bolt all 3 of the "X"s together.  See the third and fourth pictures.

Step 3: Bracing

Now you've got to brace the Xs together, but first you need to decide on a size of logs you want to cut.  My standard size log round will be 16" long when it's cut, so I centered the Xs on 16".  If your wood will be a different size, adjust accordingly.  The easiest way to get the Xs spaced is to place a scrap 2x4 in the top of the Xs, right where your logs will go, measure out your spacing and screw the 2x4 to the 4x4 to keep that spacing.  Do this on a level surface, it helps keep everything nice and straight.  Add a bottom brace on each side of the 'buck, attaching it with 3" screws.  Then eyeball everything for level and plumb, and measure out and cut a 2x4 brace on the diagonal, see second picture.

Step 4: Spreader Brace

This is the part where you decide how wide you want the 'buck to be.  Mine measured 35" between the bottom points of the 4x4s.  Measure and cut 2 pieces for each side of the sawbuck.  Each 2x4 ( I actually ripped a 2x6 in half for mine) piece will butt into a 4x4 and on one end and screw into the side of the opposite 4x4 on the other end.  This is a bit difficult to describe, so see the pictures.  In the end, both sides will have a doubled brace that is pretty awfully solid so there's no worry about dropping a big round of hardwood on it.

Step 5: Cut Some Logs

There you have it. Finished.  The only modification after a bit of use was to cut the top ends of the 4x4s vertically so the chainsaw could get in closer to the log when cutting.  Happy cutting.

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10 Discussions


1 year ago

i made this - extremely sturdy - recommend
and i only used 2x4s instead of 4x4s - amazing!
good job ardnon.


2 years ago on Step 4

Looks great and solid, just one modification to consider, on your end supports instead of using screws, if you drill through and enter a bolt or pin your saw buck can fold flat for storage and easier to transport.


Reply 2 years ago

That’s a great idea. I haven’t moved mine much - it just lives outside by the woodpile permanently.

DubL A
DubL A

2 years ago

Can not wait to make a this sawbuck . Looks like it will work great for a 1 man operation . Thanks

Really solid! The problem with sawbucks is that they can't take the severe pounding over and over again. This thing is tight and sturdy. Thanks!


7 years ago on Introduction

Well done! I especially like the way the cut pieces stay on the rack. This is a definite labor saver for a one man operation like me. Thanks for posting it!!!