Simple Cedar Flower Box





This cedar flowering box was crafted from old fence slats. I thought it up while in the shower thinking of a way to pass the time while I glue another project together. Obviously I wanted it to be nice but didn't want it to have lots of parts, take too much time to build, or make me think too much. End result is a beautiful flower box, made with less than 20 easy cuts on the miter saw (or skill saw).


2- 17" x 5" Side
2 - 7" x 5" End 
1 ~ 16" x 3¹⁄₈ Bottom


Safety Glasses
Miter saw 
Drill & drill bit
Measuring type 


Please read, understand, and follow instruction manuals for all power tools. Wear your safety glasses.

Step 1: Give the Cedar a Fresh Look

The cedar is old and has been out in the elements for years, giving it a nice rustic look. The following steps 
will give the flower box a "new" look but aren't necessary. 

Step 1:

Run each side of the wood through the planner taking only a 1/16" each pass. 
Or just sand it with 80-100 grit sand paper.

Step 2:

Joint 1 edge to create a flat/square surface to cut to width on the table saw.

Step 3:

Rip all the pieces on the table saw to 5"

Step 2: Cutting the Ends

The 45° cuts on the End and Side pieces will join together making a 90° "miter joint".
Miter joints are stronger and look much nicer than a simple "butt joint". 

The 20° angle cuts are going to give the box a little style. 

Check for cracks before making the pieces, especially the End pieces. They are only 7" long so even a small crack will make it very weak. 

Step 1:

Turn/swivel the miter saw at 20°

Step 2:

Tilt the blade to 45° and make a cut on the edge of one of the boards. Removing any cracks or unwanted knots in the wood.

Step 3:

Measure 7" at the top, then using a quick square draw a line across the board at 20°. This is to make it easier to align with the saw blade making a accurate cut.

To Reduce waste visualize the cut before you make it.

Remember the Angles

The 20° angle will create a trapezoid shape. I swiveled the saw to the opposite 20°mark and flipped the board accordingly. 

The 45° angle should be on the same side as the first 45° cut.

If you ended up with a parallelogram:
Just set up the angle correctly and recut.

If you have 45° cuts on opposite sides:
Retry...YAY for learning!

Step 5:

Repeat, because 2 End pieces are required.

Step 3: Cutting the Sides

Step 1:

Swivel the saw to 0°
Tilt the saw blade to 45°
Make a cut on one edge.

Step 2:

Measure&mark at  17" then make a line straight across with a square.

Be sure that the 45° cuts will be on the same side.

Step 3:

Repeat, because 2 Sides pieces are required.

Step 4: Trim the Ends

Step 1:

The end pieces are taller by about 1/2 inch because they were cut at 20°

Use a clamp or a brick to hold down one of the side pieces,
Align an end piece with the side piece at the top of the box (creating the 90° joint) so the extra material is at the bottom.
Make a mark 

Step 2:

Swivel the saw to 20°and make the cut

Be sure to cut the bottom. If the top is cut it won't be 7" any more and won't match the opposite end piece.

Step 3:

Repeat - the other end piece needs to match.
Measure the new height or
Stack the 2 end parts aligning them at the top and draw a line at the bottom.

Step 5: Assemble

Step 1:

With a side piece clamped down (Like when trimming the End piece) focus on aligning the top and outside corners of the 2 parts
Pre drill holes for screws using a drill bit with smaller diameter than the screws. 

Fasten the joint.

Use at least 2 screws or nails for each joint. 
I used 1-1/4" sheet rock screws with an 1/8" drill bit 

If holes aren't pre drilled it is likely that the wood will crack.

Step 2:

Unclamp the side piece, turn it, reclamp

Step 3:

Repeat step 1 attaching the second End piece to the Side piece

Make sure that the trapezoid shapes mirror each other creating a "top" and "bottom"

Step 4:

Attach the second Side piece to the End pieces using the same technique.

If you use a nail gun make sure your hands are clear in case the joint is missed or a nail follows the grain of the wood 
and pops out. 

Step 6: The Bottom

The bottom can be made at least 2 ways...

With the Miter Saw
Step 1.1:

Measure the inside of the box at the bottom. (~3-1/8")

Step 2.1:

Tilt the miter saw to 20°
The swivel part at 0°

Cut 1 end

Measure 3-1/8"
flip board to create proper cut


Step 3.1:

Repeat until the bottom can be mostly covered.
Because the box needs to be able to drain it doesn't need to be perfect. You want a couple gaps in the bottom.
But not so big dirt will fall through.

Step 4.1:

Fasten the bottom pieces. Leaving small gaps.

The angles make the bottom strong so the nails are mostly so they don't fall out when there isn't plants inside.
I just used 1 screw on each side of the box for each piece.

Alternative Method with Table saw

Step 1.2:

Measure the inside of the box (~3 1/8")
Length should be (~16")

Step 2.2:

Adjust saw blade to 20°

Step 2.2:

Adjust the fence to 3 1/8"
flip the board to cut 20° on the opposite side

Step 3.2:

Drill holes in the bottom to allow for drainage

Step 4.2

Screw into place

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