Introduction: Stained Glass Jewelry Box

By Crafting Tough
About: Hi. My name is Alina and I am a serial hobbyist and DIY fanatic. I literally have more hobbies than I can count... but you will find the important ones occupy their own board on my Pinterest page: including st…

PROJECT: Stained Glass Jewelry Box

COMPLETED: October 2015 ( for my sister's birthday )

DESCRIPTION: Custom jewelry box built with multiple levels and 3 removable drawers

LEVEL OF EFFORT = 8/10 (1= no sweat, 10= hardest thing I've ever done)


KEYS TO SUCCESS:

  1. Patience & Perseverance
  2. Accuracy & Precision
  3. Finalize design plan as much as possible BEFORE cutting a single piece of glass

Step 1: Tools to Get the Job Done

GLASS CUTTING, GRINDING, AND FOILING TOOLS (photo 1 & 2 above)

  1. Glass of your choice * TIP: avoid thick or textured glass...unless you're trying to make your life difficult :)

  2. Glass Cutter, with oil

  3. Running and Breaking Pliers
  4. Glass Grinder and Eye Protection
    • I still have my Mom's glass grinder from Glastar ... the Glastar Super Star II Glass Grinder

  5. Copper Foil Tape: I typically buy 1/4-1/2 inch wide foil from MasterFoil or Venture Tape. *TIP: if you're working with transparent glass or mirrors, you'll definitely want "black-backed tape".

  6. Copper Foiler (optional).
  7. Cutting mat w/ measuring tools (optional)
    • Another recent purchase and luxury item... the Ultra Beetle Bits Glass Cutting System with it's "Flying Beetle Glass Cutter" on Amazon (see below) and it also comes with a 6-Pk Waffle Grid to catch glass and pop in rulers for straight cuts.
    • Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VVR3211/ref=o...

  8. Homasote Board (optional) Used to protect table or soldering surface from burns.

SOLDERING TOOLS (photos 3 above)

1. SOLDERING IRON: ideally you will have a range of available temperatures, but at the end of day it just needs to be hot enough to melt solder. The melting point of most solder is in the region of 188°C (370°F)

*TIP: you should always start at the lowest temperature possible.

2. SOLDER is obviously necessary for soldering. All you really need is a spool of 60/40 solder..which is more flexible than 50/50. I rarely use my 50/50 solder, only for the initial "tacting" together of two pieces.

3. FLUX is also a critical component to soldering. Think of it as a viscous liquid lube THINLY applied to the soldering surface (copper foil seams) before you add the molten hot solder. I have a LOT of lessons learned using flux…but mainly just avoid using too much, or too little. You'll know if you missed a spot, or applied too little flux when the solder won't stick to the foil at all. You'll know if you have too much flux when it's starts to splatter -- so be careful!

Here's the part where I get burned -- pun definitely intended! Both situations can be easily remedied IF you have patience. If you have too much flux, let the piece cool down a bit, then carefully remove excess with a lint free wipe. If you choose to ignore the spatters AND you're too lazy to remove the excess liquid, you end up with blacked and blistered solder.

If you need to add more, again let the piece cool down, then apply another thin layer of flux. If you're too impatient to wait for it to cool, you end up with burnt and signed bristles. Even you NEVER applied your brush to warm solder, you still wouldn't want to use your nice paint brushes. Basically, when it comes to applying flux…don’t use any brush (or item) you care about. Flux is some corrosive stuff and brush bristles are delicate.

In a pinch, I typically end up using a nearby towel, or more likely my fingers (it's not THAT corrosive :). My advice is avoid that situation all-together by picking up a pack of cheapo paint brushes from Michael's, or even better go on Amazon to buy a pack of small acrylic nail brushes. Flux is nothing compared to the corrosive chemicals in acrylic or acetone!4. PATINA is an optional "tint" for finished solder.

Step 2: Instructions -> Cut and Assemble Pieces for Level 1 and 2

*Please see sequential photos with comments/details.

Step 3: Instructions -> Cut and Assemble Pieces for "T" Level 3

*Please see sequential photos with comments/details.

Step 4: Instructions -> Cut and Assemble Pieces for Boxes

*Please see sequential photos with comments/details.

Step 5: Finishing Touches and Final Product!

FINALLY....The finished product!!

The best part about this custom piece is the versatility of the removable drawers. I included a few photos at the end to show that the drawers are completely optional! For example, I may decide to remove one of drawers and use that empty space for large hair pins that don't fit in any drawer...or perhaps I don't want any drawers at all...totally up to you :)