Stylish and Low Cost 55 Gallon Drum Planters




Introduction: Stylish and Low Cost 55 Gallon Drum Planters

About: I've worked for Instructables off and on since 2006 building and documenting just about everything I enjoy doing. I am now the Creative Programs founder and manager for Autodesk and just finished building o...

I wanted to build some simple, low cost & attractive containers for a few fruit trees that were ready to be replanted in my backyard.  Using second hand 55 gallon food safe plastic barrels and some scrap wood that I cleaned up on the planer, I was able to create some very basic planters for my backyard garden.  The wood was free and the barrels were purchased off of craigslist for $10 a piece.  

The project came together in an easy afternoon at the shop, and what's best, I got to use my brad nailer for the first time - bonus!

Inside the containers I planted a black jack fig tree, meyer lemon tree, and an unknown varietal of avocado that I started from seed 6 years ago.  All in all, I think they really spruce up my backyard.

Step 1: Source a Plastic Barrel

I was able to find cheap and clean used barrels all over craigslist.  Although you could use a steel drum as the structural container you wouldn't be able to use the brad nailer to affix the decorative wood slats - half the fun of this project, so I opted for plastic barrels which were cheaper and widely available used online.  

I paid $10/barrel and bought two of them, one blue and one white, from a nice guy who was using them as rain barrels, but had just upgraded his system to something larger.

Step 2: Cut Barrel

Using a jig saw with a fine tooth blade, cut the top off of one of the barrels.  

To mark an even cut line all the way around the barrel I simply held a marker in place at the height I wanted to cut at and spun the barrel around keeping the marker stationary - voila. 

To make two smaller planters instead of just one huge one, cut the barrel in half and DON'T cut the top of the barrel off, since that will now become the bottom.

Step 3: Deburr

Deburr the lip of the barrel you just exposed from your cut with a de-burring tool.

This step is completely unnecessary, but just something nice to throw in if you have the tool and the time.

Step 4: Drill Drainage Holes

Using a decent sized drill bit (3/8" or larger), drill many holes through the bottom of the barrel to promote good drainage.  

Container gardens need to drain well in order provide healthy environments for the plants that grow inside them.

Step 5: Attach Risers

I wanted to raise the really big barrel off of the ground just a little bit so it would be easier to move around and position in my backyard.  

I did this by creating two simple skids out of 2x4's and attaching them to the bottom of the full-size barrel with drywall screws and fender washers so they wouldn't rip out.

Step 6: Prepare Scrap Wood

The next order of business was to get to work on revitalizing some old wooden redwood slats (good for the outdoors) that I salvaged from my garage.  I had some other scrap wood lying around in the shop as well so I used that too.

I first ran all the boards through the planer to clean them up a bit, then ripped them to varying widths on the table saw.  Next, I cut them all to length using a stop-block on the miter saw.  First, a long set for the full height barrel, second, some shorter pieces for the half-size barrels.

Plane, rip, chop and repeat until you've got a sizable pile of scrap wood to adorn your barrels.

Step 7: Affix Wood to Barrel - Method 1

Grab an air powered brad nailer and start shooting the place up!

This was the most fun part of the build process by far.  Taking random boards of contrasting color, begin to cover the plastic barrel in wooden slats abutting them next to eachother as closely as possible so no blue-barrel shows through.

Continue working your way around the barrel until it's completely been covered. 

I used a block on the bottom of the barrel to align the wooden slats so that everything would be even on the top.

Use sufficiently long brads so that you've got 1/2" or so of nail sticking out on the inside of the barrel once you shoot your nail through the wood slats.

Step 8: Affix Wood to Barrel - Method 2

On the full-size barrel I simply abutted each wooden board around the barrel.  On the two half-size barrels I affixed the slats like shingles at a slight angle on top of one another for a different effect.  

Follow the same principles as described in method 1 to affix the boards, but this time simply rest the edge of one board on top of the preceding slat.

Both methods give a nice effect - do what you like best.

Step 9: Hammer Down Tips of Brad Nails

Take a hammer and use it to bend down the exposed end of the brad on the inside of the barrel. 

This will lock the boards into place so the nails can't wiggle out, as well as protect your hands during potting from all the sharp nails now on the inside of your planter.

Step 10: Make Top

I came up with two simple methods for making a rim/top to the planters.  

The first involved cutting the edges of 8 short sections of scrap wood to 22.5 degrees so that they could form an octagon around the top of the full height barrel.  It took a little bit of experimentation to get a perfect fit, but starting with the piece a little long and then chopping them all to the same length bit by bit, I was able to create a perfectly fitting octagon that matched my barrel.

The other method for the nested shorter barrels was to simply continue the shingle style nesting that I used on the sides, on the top as well.  I laid down one short slat section first, and then in a sunburst pattern spiraled additional boards on top.  

The octagon topper was held together with brads and glue, while the sunburst pattern on the shorter barrels is simply nailed into place with the brad gun.

Step 11: Screen Holes

The bottom of one of my planters was originally a barrel top, and thus, it had two holes for pouring out liquids.  

Since these holes were just a bit too big and would let dirt out the bottom, I used some old window-screen material to cover the holes.

Step 12: Gravel

Above ground planters need good drainage, so I put some small pebbles at the bottom of each of the planters.  About an inch or so of gravel will do fine.

Step 13: Soil

Fill the planters with a soil mixture that's optimized for container gardening.  In this case, something with a decent compost percentage and good drainage.  I'm using "Kellog Patio Planter Mix" that I bought at my local Home Depot.

Step 14: Plant

Plant your plants/fruit trees/vegetables into the pot.  

I planted a Black Jack fig, a Meyer lemon tree, and an avocado tree that I started from seed 6 years ago that was desperately needing a larger pot.

Step 15: Mulch and Your Done

On top of the plant goes more soil to cover the roots, and a topper layer of wood chunks or mulch so that the California sun doesn't bake all the water right out of the container as soon as I water them.

Most of the slats that I used were some very old redwood shingles, so I wasn't too worried about rot outside and water damage.  That being said, hitting the planter with a coat of water-based exterior polyurethane or varnish will increase the lifespan of these planters tremendously, and if you're in a particularly wet climate, would definitely be a good idea.  I'll probably give them a coat later this season just for safety.

Place the planters and the project's done.



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    54 Discussions

    Does anyone know the long length necessary to make the octagon top? I saw his mention of. 22.5 degree cut but hoping someone knows the length of the top pieces?

    Has anyone tried this with a dead fridge? Nice rectangular planter, insulated against excessive heat. Good for taters!

    2 replies

    I have an old freezer I think I will try it thanks for the idea. Is there anything I will need to look out for? Did you lay it on its back? Did you drill drain holes?

    I did similar thing to a dead fridge turned it on its back ripped out all the electrics etc anything not required plugged up holes ,,placed boards all round and on fridge door turned it in entertainer for keeping beer and soft drinks on ice for parties

    That's beautiful!

    a green (recycling hint) for planters, to avoid heavy planters with rock and loads of dirt, use plastic bottles or aluminum cans as a filler on the bottom to take up unneeded dirt space, then cover with landscape material, then fill with the gravel and dirt to actual depth needed. bushes and trees need more depth than flowers, flowers only need about 8 inches of soil, and the large barrel would be too heavy to move easily otherwise.

    3 replies

    Another option I've used is Styrofoam shipping peanuts. They are light and I think indestructible.

    Another option I've used is Styrofoam shipping peanuts. They are light and I think indestructible.

    Another option I've used is Styrofoam shipping peanuts. They are light and I think indestructible.

    cool planters, when i build a few i think I'm gonna grab some steel strips, acid etch them for antique look, then add them top and bottom to give more of a barrel look.

    1 reply

    davidand5 did you ever complete this project and put on the metal band?? I would love to see the completed project.

    I really appreciate all the ideas people gave in these comments. My breakthrough concept here was just to attempt to build a quick and cheap planter that looked better than a plastic barrel.

    Improving the longevity of the project by using stainless brads, or a pallet bander to hold the slats in place is definitely a change that I would recommend.

    Additionally, if you don't know the history behind your barrel, it isn't worth taking the chance of growing your veggies in the stuff that created the ninja turtles, and so it's probably better to simply wait until you can find a safer alternative.

    Thanks all!

    1 reply

    great idea. You could use so many different size containers this way and then make them look like they all belong together!! The only thing that I wood possibly add would be to paint your container before starting. Brownish if you are covering w/wood just in case the lathes would shrink or if a couple boards were not butted up against each other.

    Couple other points to add to this, obviously, good idea:

    1) If you leave a little gap between the bottom of the wood and the base, the wood is less likely to wick up water from the ground.

    2) My barrels came from a farmers fertilizer supply and were free. Of course, pay attention to what was in them and how it will affect your plants or trees and the environment.

    This also works on car, truck and tractor tires, to make your "lifetime planters" more aesthetically pleasing. Of course, cutting most of the top out (leave a few inches of the tire wall on top to keep the shape of the tire).

    Since brads will leave stains in reaction with moisture, and if that would be a problem, also consider making three kerfs in each pieces of wood at the top, middle and bottom.

    This allows you to hold the wood on with copper or galvanized wire. I used copper, which is easy to snug and twist.

    To terminate the wires, I just drilled holes into the bucket where the wires meet, pushed them through and twisted the wires together inside.

    cool looking design!


    2 years ago

    Screw the wood from the inside of the barrel with 3/4" No. 8 screws with 1/8" x 1/2" washers. Use a square drive bit & square drive screws. I've used this with wood facing on Rubbermaid containers. If you just use screws they tear through.

    Another option for those who are worried about the boards coming off over time...glue them in place with this brown glue that comes in a silicon like tube AND THEN nail them. Even though I'm pretty sur just with that glue they won't ever come off.

    I hate to criticize good instructables, but since your using a power nailer/stapler, wouldn't it be better to nail from the inside with nails of shorter length? more secure and no bending over of nails to snag everything including flesh? Making the slats stay in place firmly would simply be using a clamp or laying barrel down with slat to be nailed on the bottom. if edges of the boards fit close enough, glue can be used also to improve stability and overall unit stability.