My Ikea coffee table had a couple of elbow sized holes in it due to some arm wrestling at a party - so this started off as a need to flip the table top over, when I remembered I had a couple of car subwoofers taking up space in a cupboard!

Due to just working with wood, you can pretty much wing this!

Step 1: Collect Your Bits

One knackered Ikea table, 2 car subwoofers and a car amplifier

Step 2: Plan the Arrangement

using the dismantled subs and the table top/legs to decide on placement/height of the table

Step 3: Proof of Concept

Basically a dry run of powering the amp using an old PC PSU.

Most PC PSU's just require you to ground the green wire so it can power on outside of a PC case, this one also required a brown 'sense' wire to be fed 3.5 volts - lots of googling involved here depending on your PSU.

All yellow (+12v) and black (ground) wires gathered together, essentially using multiple wires to supply the current rather than one thin wire.

The amp I had (Fusion FE-402) had a 25Amp fuse fitted, giving me an idea of the wattage required from the PSU, i.e. 12*25=300Watts. As this is all 12 volts you want to make sure that your PSU's 12 volt rail is rated for at least this amount.

Of course different amps will have different needs.

Step 4: Initial Assembly

To tie the 2 subwoofers together I just nailed a piece of 12 mm (ish) scrap MDF across the bottom of the two subs.

Sides were cut from the undershelf of the donor table and some angle brackets used to secure them.

Step 5: Refit Speaker Cones and Cover

Velvet effect sticky vinyl was cosen to use to recover the subs, cheap and wouldn't show up every imperfection like non velvet sticky vinyl.

In the UK dc-fix vinyl supplied by Wilko/Wilkinsons is ony £5 a roll

Pretty self explanatory, stick it on, cut holes for the sub and screw them back in.

You can see the piece of scrap used to attach the two subs together in one of the pics.

Step 6: Cover the Rest of the Table Base

PSU mounted inside and the rest of the base covered in sticky vinyl.

Normal black plastic vinyl used for the bits that wont be directly seen as the roll is twice as long, as the velvet effect, for the same price!

Step 7: Tabletop!

As I was doing this in spare time once a week, along the way I thought why not stick a window in the table top so the amp will be visible, maybe add some LED's.

Normal Stanley knife used to cut through the very thin mdf, A3 size on the top for a cheap sheet of acrylic, 1inch less than A3 size on the bottom.

Scrap wood used to create batons to fit into the edges of the void to give a bit of strength, just screwed into place underneath

Step 8: Covering the Table Top & LED's Installed

Wood effect sticky back vinyl used, again just £5 for a roll - hairdryer need to heat the stuff to work it into the recess where the acrylic will sit.

Cheap set of standard 5050 LED's from Amazon, just powered again from the PSU +12V. Conveniently, using a bit of scrap wood to secure the two subs together leaves a lip to wrap the LED's round for an under table glow, rest of the LED's inside under the amplifier