Teardrop Trailer Aluminum




Introduction: Teardrop Trailer Aluminum

Hi I'm a retired Firefighter from New York. My hobbies are Fly-fishing,kayak fishing,camping and ...

I have built a Teardrop trailer and will post the steps that I took to construct this camper. These units are easy to build and economical to tow and operate. No matter where I go there is always a camp ground around near where I want to be.

Step 1: the Trailer

I needed some room for storage so I built this teardrop on a trailer that was designed for hauling All Terrain Vehicles(ATV). The trailer weighs in at 1400 Lbs (finished) but can handle tough roads and bad conditions. The Trailer is 6 ft wide (7.3 at the fenders) and 15 ft tongue to tail. The sleeping area is over 7Ft long, kinda important since I'm 6ft 3 in tall.

Step 2: Preparation

Preparation is the most important thing that could be done. Once you mount the teardrop and cover everything it is what it is. If it is rusted it will get worse, if your lighting wires are frayed they will fail. So PREPARE! I ground down any rust and primed and repainted the problem areas. Found wiring that was substandard and replaced. Lastly I covered bottom of trailer with a breathable vinyl product to keep the water out and mounted 4 job boxes to the front of the trailer.

Step 3: the Floor

Measured and matched the framing of the trailer. I then covered the frame with 3 coats of roofing tar. The real sticky, nasty, smelly stuff. The frame was fastened down with trailer deck screws. If you look around you can find them at Home Depot or Tractor Supply; The floor is 3/4 Inch B-C exterior plywood that was butted together and sanded, to make one large surface. All edges were sealed with polyurethane and covered with tar. I covered the plywood with a piece of remnant Congoleum and trimed the edges.

Step 4: The Walls

The side walls are made of 5/8" exterior plywood spaced with 3/4" slats. In between the slats there is ridged foiled insulation. The inside of the walls are 1/4" interior Birch sanded. After fashioning a guide 3/8" smaller then the door opening, I used a router trim bit to cut the holes on both sides. I drilled a hole on the exterior next to the doors for exterior lights and 4 holes for LED running lights. All the wood was plasticized with a 3 to 1 mixture of thinner and polyurethane , 3 coats. after the sides were complete I ran the router around the cut edges to square it all up.

Step 5: Framing and Sheathing

The framing is made out of 2x4s and 2x2s ripped from the 2x4s. I used a Kreg Jig to prepare the 2x4s and mounted the around the walls. I drilled 1/2" holes to run the wires that I ran as I built the frame work. After the framing was up I installed ridged 11/2" and sheathed it with 3/8" plywood and cut out the galley hatch hole and the vent fan hole.

Step 6: Aluminum

Out of all the steps this was probably the most difficult, I am not a metal worker and have never handled large pieces of metal. Again the T&TTT website was invaluable in the advice I received. I started by getting my buddy Jim over to assist with the cutting and mounting. We cut the aluminum into pieces that were just larger then what we needed and applied contact cement to it and the plywood. We aligned the sides and trimmed off the excess with a trim bit on the router. The top was done the same but we had to use straps and 2x4s to hold it down. The holes for the doors, galley, and the vent fan were cut again with the trim bit. All edges of the metal were then stapled with 1"staples, very close to the edges so the corner trim would cover them. I must say we did a fine job and learned much along the way about metal working.

Step 7: Interior

Finished the wires for all the lighting. I covered the inside with luan ply and mounted the doors. I built a bracket for the galley shelf, rear bulkhead and the cabinet frame. The shelf protrudes into the camper and is trimmed with larger angle L trim to form and shelf on the inside.

Tested the vent fan, exterior lighting, exterior switches, ceiling lighting, Smoke/CO alarm and reading light. The ceiling lights have 2 switches and I placed whites lights on one side and red lights on the other, so when I step out in the dark my night vision is not disrupted by bright lights. The cabinet doors where made from scrap pieces of wood and luan ply. The handles and TV came from Amazon and trimmed it out with PVC trim because it is very flexible. The vent fan is so powerful on high that it feels like a wind tunnel inside.

Step 8: Galley and Hatch

I was lucky that I saved a hatch door from an old camper and built sides with the same curves and contours of the hatch.1/2" hollow rubber gaskets were used the waterproof the opening. The hatch weights about 35lbs so I mounted 2 hydraulic assist rods and now it lifts effortlessly. I also installed a LED light strip on the back of one of rails.

The Galley and bulkhead carry most of the utilities AC/DC electrical power unit, audio entertainment unit, AC receptacles and the speakers. I installed a AC/DC meter to keep track of my power usage, Two USB plugs and a 12V lighter plug.

Step 9: Finishing Up and Odds and Ends

Found these fish cabinet handles on Amazon and installed them inside. Finished the TV. The edges on the outside did not look good so I cut pieces of diamond plate and trimmed it out with that. Opened the hatch one evening and realized that it was to dark to do any work in as added lighting by installing an LED light strip and switch, Looks great and lots of light.

Step 10: Tweeks After First Road Trip

I thought about storage for plates, cups and silverware. I had not thought about this till I went out on the road. So I added these cubbies and was able to pickup storage space for napkins and propane bottles for the stove.

Step 11: After Thoughts

There are a few things that I may have done differently, but not to much. Perhaps a bit larger next time. I completed the build on July fourth 2016 and many of my friends and family thought I was crazy. They said it would never get used. I have now used this camper for over twenty nights in five states while traveling. By the way take notice of the stylish T-Shirt. LOL

Step 12:

Brave the Elements 2016

Second Prize in the
Brave the Elements 2016

7 People Made This Project!


  • Water Contest

    Water Contest
  • Metalworking Contest

    Metalworking Contest
  • Fix It! Contest

    Fix It! Contest

111 Discussions

Hi,, looking to build a lighter version of your trailer. Just the hull for transporting with my three wheel motorcycle. What’s your pros and cons for this project? By the way I really light your instructions.

1 more answer

I like building so that was enjoyable. The planning and acquiring the parts was a PITA. I would not start to fabricate until I had all parts on site.

This will be a summer project for my Honda Goldwing Trike. Slight smaller an lighter for motorcycle tow.

2 replies

I've seen the lighter motorcycle ones made from aluminum frames

very cool. Did you order the metal to size or is it off the shelve? I could only find it 4 foot wide needed 4ft. 3 in. Maybe on the next one.

1 reply

I got it off the shelf from a tractor trailer repair shop. 102' wide X what ever lenght

Now this is my idea of glamping! I wonder if I could make one light enough to tow behind my Yamaha Majesty Scooter (400cc). Great photo diary, you got my vote. I don't fish but I'll raise a cold one to you!

3 replies

Dear Kristin,

Almost a year old--your post about pulling a teardrop trailer with your 400 CC scooter. That might be a possibility you build it very light. And don't attempt to pull it up any meaningful incline. You can test the engine power by giving a ride to any overweight friends--you'll be surprised at how "gutless" 400 CC is!

Also, because no matter how lightly you build it, it will weigh much more than you and your scooter together, be sure to build it with a "surge" braking system built into the trailer tongue. This will automatically apply brakes to the trailer wheels to prevent the heavier trailer from pushing your scooter when you need to stop!

As Frostbite said 400cc may not be enough to pull a small Teardrop. I could have lightened up my Teardrop by using lighter materials. Using 1X2 framing and thinner plywoods. I would even go to an aluminum trailer to lighten the load for a motorcycle.

I don't know about towing one with a 400cc scooter, but years ago I built a teardrop I towed behind my Harley Davidson Electra Glide and loved it. You just have to be sure you get a full motion hitch for a motorcycle.

Hi Naturrsvr
I now have over 10000 miles on her. I do not have CAD files for the biuld but do have drawings. I can post them here or send them to you. Whats your pleasure?
I will need a couple of days to find them, as I'm busy working on a music and lighting computer show for my wife. (tough boss) LOL

Hi Frank, well done and with 4000 miles on her well built. Do you have CAD or pdf layout files available for this young lady to build one too?

is it well protected against bears?

1 reply

I have not had any break-in. I've seen bears rip doors off of cars to get inside. A few well place rounds through the door usually deters anything.

While in West Yellowstone many years ago, they had 1/4 inch steel plate garbage receptacles that weighted 800 pounds. This is not 1/4 steel plate.

All in with used trailer, building supplies and scrounging. $2800.

I could have done it cheaper with a light duty trailer and cheaped out on the insulation and other building products. I built it to take on the elements, rough conditions, and customized for me.

I had a Queen sized mattress, I have since put a Full sized in for more inside storage space.

All in with used trailer, building supplies and scrounging. $2800.

I could have done it cheaper with a light duty trailer and cheaping out on the insulation and other building products. I built it to take on the elements, rough conditions, and customized for me.