The BO-AT Single Sheet Plywood Boat

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Introduction: The BO-AT Single Sheet Plywood Boat

About: I am happily married with one son, two dogs, a ball python, Russian tortoise, and many fish. I like to fossil hunt, all things Jeep, Walt Disney World, camp, hunt & fish, and garden. Anything new appeals t…

My son and I built this simple one sheet plywood boat following the plans and sage advice provided in the following link  http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2011/07/the-blue-crab-one-sheet-plywood-boat-tiny-yellow-house.html.  We saw this in a recent eNews from Make Magazine.  This is Not our design but I wanted to share what we learned.  This was a simple and fun project to build and cost us a grand total of $59 dollars and about 6 hours (not counting Beer and Juice Boxes).

Step 1: Shopping for Material

We went to our local hardware store and purchased the following supplies:

1 Sheet of 4x8 15/32 Plywood Sheet
Gorilla Glue
Silicone Sealant
Latex Paint
Screws
Paracord
Sand Paper


Depending on the size of your workshop and the tools available to you, you may decide to have the store cut the 4x8 sheet of plywood for you (as we did) - just make sure they cut it right (as we did not) - it will save you trimming and increase you freeboard later on.

Tools Used:

Jig Saw
Caulk Gun
Screw Gun
Measure
Clamps
Drill
Paint Brush

Step 2: Cutting Out the Parts

In the video link for the first page you can see how to cut out the various parts for the boat.  You will need to make the following cuts:

1 - 24 inch by 96 inch sheet for bottom, bow and stern - this part we further cut into three parts:

1 - 18 inch by 24 inch part for the bow
1 - 12 inch by 24 inch part for the stern
1 - 24 inch by 66 inch part for the bottom

2 - 12 inch by 96 inch sheets for the sides - will be further cut to match the angle of the bow while assembling

3 - 1 inch by 2 inch by 8ft boards for supports - cut to size

1 - 1 inch by 3 inch by 8ft board for trim on bow and stern

2 - 1 inch by 2 inch by 8ft boards for deck - cut into 24 inch planks and then threaded with 550 paracord for deck

Step 3: Assembling the Boat

Once all the parts have been cut to size, the assemble quite quickly.  In the video they recommend that you glue and use brads to hold the boat together.  I used screws instead but think the brads would work a bit better as you would not need to pre-drill the holes as I did to keep the screws from splitting the wood.  I only used the screws because I was too lazy to drag out my air compressor!

I began by attaching one side to the bottom first.  After this I attached the stern and here is the order I followed (not sure it matters but this was the way I did it):
  1. Left side to Bottom
  2. Stern to bottom and Left side
  3. Right side to bottom and stern
  4. Bow to Bottom and both sides
  5. I then used trim (1 x 2) at all the joints to give me something to screw into
For each part attached, I used the Gorilla Glue and then clamped and screwed together.  Having a second set of hands is great for helping to flip the boat over and back several times as you build it.  It also comes in very handy (pun intended) to fetch and open the Beer.

The last items I attached were the 1x3 trim parts on top of the box and stern - these were added as much for looks as for an easy hand hold for carrying.

I also made a change to the seat design that he had used on his boat.  Because my son is about 100 pounds lighter than I, our ballast in the boat needs to be arranged in a much different manner.  He can sit much farther back than I without taking on any water in the stern.  For this reason I used the 1 x 2 boards strung together and laid in the base of the boat on the 1 x 2 rails.  We can slide this front to back without any issue.  I also was not comfortable with how high his seat sat and feared it would create a too-high center of gravity in an already wobbly boat.

Step 4: Sanding, Sealing & Painting

Once assembled, the next step is to sand the boat to a nice smooth finish.  We tried to round out all the edges somewhat to keep from scraping any body parts while on the water.

After we had a nicely sanded boat, we went a bit wild with the Silicone Sealant.  This is not a bad thing as this is basically what keeps the water outside your boat and you dry.  I gave the Silicone a good 24 hours to dry before I applied any paint.

After the Silicone has dried, you are ready to paint the boat.  I used a Valspar Latex Enamel paint.  We applied three coats to the outside surfaces of the boat (green in pictures) and two coats to the inside surfaces (tan in pictures).  between each coat I waited the recommended time for drying and sanded lightly.

Now that I have had it in the water, I will put another coat on at the water level for some added protection.

One thing to note is that paint does not adhere well to Silicone so where ever your sealant is, your paint will not look very good.  This is more cosmetic than a problem. 

Step 5: Maiden Voyage

Pick a nice and sunny day on a not so leach infested lake (this is Gropps Lake in NJ) and head out.

As you can see from the pictures, the boat does okay.  It is by no means a speed boat or a stable boat but it is fun and it can displace quite a bit of water (held about 400 pounds and still had just over an inch of freeboard).

This is a much better boat for someone my son's size and handled quite well.  When I got in and my cousin, things went a bit wobbly but were still enjoyable.  When we both got in we were having flash backs of the Titanic!

My next test will include a very small electric trolling motor for some fun.

This was just a fun project to do and I thank Make Magazine and Derek “Deek” Diedricksen for posting it.

Step 6: Motor Test

I should title this part Load Test because I never got to try the motor - bad battery.

I will update after I get a new one.  Also need to trim the top board back by the stern to fit the motor bracket.  I had to remove the board to fit the motor.

Watersports Summer Challenge

Grand Prize in the
Watersports Summer Challenge

2 People Made This Project!

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99 Discussions

0
Wozzell11
Wozzell11

5 months ago

I'm about 150 lbs. Would this boat hold me without bobbing and swaying too much?

0
PaleoDan
PaleoDan

Reply 5 months ago

I am about 195 lbs. and it held me but this is Not a performance boat. It was made more for fun and made me laugh really hard every time I used it. Please don't think about it as a stable boating platform. It is great for kids and fun but safe boating practices should always be used including the use of a Coast Guard approved flotation device and adherence to any state or local regulations. It is worth building for the experience and what you can learn from it (and all the fun) - enjoy! It led to my next project, a little bigger and better...

0
mischivious_pixie
mischivious_pixie

4 years ago

cool, i plan on making one for a school project. do you think you could add a sail?

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williamthescorpion
williamthescorpion

Reply 7 months ago

same here, I am making a sail that acts like a parachute in front
sail is fixed with rope on the 4 corners and each side attaches to the boat.
example: \__/-<)

0
David Bachrach
David Bachrach

Reply 2 years ago

Yes, just add a center support

0
AlM47
AlM47

Reply 4 years ago

A sailboat would need a rudder too. To be strong and safe a center board and rudder are more complicated than this hull. The sail can get you out in the offing and you can sink like theTitanic if the whole contraption isn't made well = take it easy :-)

0
PaleoDan
PaleoDan

Reply 4 years ago

I am not sure how big of a sail you could put on this. You would need to add a real keel I would think. Maybe a small square rigged sail would work.

0
ThomasB245
ThomasB245

4 years ago

I live in an area of the UK with fairly rough seas, and need a way to increase stability without a large keel (as I need to get it up a boat ramp)

0
PaleoDan
PaleoDan

Reply 4 years ago

I would really love to see a picture of it. What about outriggers hanging off each side? Build up two thinner but slightly longer "boxes" and seal them well so they are buoyant...

Love the tea idea too, nice relaxing way to spend the day.

0
ThomasB245
ThomasB245

Reply 4 years ago

Btw I made it 5 metres long and 1.5 metres wide. With a 5hp mower engine

0
ThomasB245
ThomasB245

Reply 4 years ago

A butane stove for making tea and a parfin lamp for lighting

0
David Bachrach
David Bachrach

4 years ago

I will be adding a sail in 2 weeks...waiting for paycheck

0
David Bachrach
David Bachrach

4 years ago

I sealed it with silicone between sheets...on the wood first Thomsons water seal...then varnish...now I'm putting fiberglass just to seal....I'm in FL in area where there is sharks so I'm beefing it up some...I put runners on bottom to help reduce tipping and make it stronger.

0
mischivious_pixie
mischivious_pixie

4 years ago

you could try to attach a centerboard so it's harder to flip

0
jerbear1978
jerbear1978

9 years ago on Step 5

Would you need to register this for use in public waters?

0
tonroh17
tonroh17

Reply 6 years ago on Step 5

that depends on the size on the engine you put on it

0
mharris17
mharris17

Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

In most states a row boat does not need to be registered. But if you attach a motor, then both the boat and motor have to be registered. Check with you fish and game office.

0
PaleoDan
PaleoDan

Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

You will need to check your local regulations but I think for NJ, you only need to register boats larger than 13 feet or as soon as you put the motor on. That is why the Motor test was in my pool.

Just so you know in some states adding a trolling motor means that the boat needs registered. People should check their local laws first if they plan on using this on public property.

0
tonroh17
tonroh17

Reply 6 years ago on Introduction

yeah, but not in Australia! LOL!