TinkerCAD - Peg Board Planter




Introduction: TinkerCAD - Peg Board Planter

About: Greetings from my laboratory! I am usually out here working on projects and solving problems. Sometimes for the profit, often for the challenge, but always for the love... and I absolutely love this s***! ...

**I want to stress that this is a very entry-level publication. If you already own a 3D Printer this was definitely not written for you. I would even say that; if you have used 3d modeling software, this is probably not for you.(Although I tried to make it fun, so you may still enjoy it)

But, if you have wanted to get into 3d printing, or want to teach a child how to use TinkerCAD, this might be a good place to start! We are going to take our time and try to stick to the very basics of both TinkerCAD and project workflow**

*If you are looking for more advanced tutorials stick around, I will be releasing higher level TinkerCAD tutorials shortly after this*

In this instructable, we're going to show you how the powerful yet simple Tinker CAD software combined with an inexpensive marvel of engineering, can be used by anyone, to print their ideas into reality!

It's true, as unbelievable as it sounds, software like TinkerCAD has gotten so easy to use, anyone could use it to customize or invent a real, tangible, object. Many of us know about 3d Printers, we even checked them out, or may have purchased an early model. But, there were many problems. 3d Printers were expensive, prone to failing, the software was full of glitches, and there wasn't that much free information to get us out of trouble.

Hey makers! were going to be publishing a bunch of fun and cool content, make sure you follow and show some love by clicking the little heart on your favorite instuctables!

Step 1: What You Need to Get Started

Although I can help to teach you the skills, I cannot sign you up to use TinkerCAD or replicate a free 3d Printer for you to use,

  • Go to TinkerCAD and sign up, it takes minutes and unlocks a whole world of possibilities. Plus, I will be using it in future content and you might as well make sure its set up now.
  • You are going to need a 3D Printer , or at least have access to one.

Spend time finding out what best suits your needs. I can recommend FlashForge , They get great reviews and are considered one of the best values in a 3d printer. Especially, considering that they require very little set-up.

Understand, ultra affordable "kit" 3d Printers are fantastic if assembled and calibrated. But, It's worth noting, building a kit printer is many times more difficult than using TinkerCAD to make cool stuff with me. If you want to learn in-depth about how 3d Printers work and like building difficult models, a kit might be for you. But don't expect any of it to be easy!

  • You'll need some filament as well, the one that I used can be found here . I've order a few rolls with no issues. I use a bunch of different filaments and countless brands. With these guys, so far so good, I will continue to use them when needed unless that changes.
  • A plant that fits will fit in the planter - I used an elephant bush. They are not exactly small but I think If I keep it trimmed it will be happy. If not, I will re-plant it outside when it gets to big!

A message to my readers;


I want to take a moment to thank you for exploring the fun world of creating with me. I've always loved inventing cool things and solving problems. It is a true joy to be able to share something I feel so passionately about with so many people! You Rock!

If you may have noticed I have placed hyperlinks throughout this page. When clicked they will take you to points of interest that I thought worth mentioning. Some of the links are to products that I use and purchase for my inventions and if you click them, I may even earn a small commission. It takes a lot of extra effort to put the things that I'm building into a well organized format that is hopefully enjoyable for you :)


Step 2: Building the Basic Shape

In TinkerCAD, They really highlight a simple concept that is easy for anyone to understand and use. Look at shapes as if they were blocks. Now, you have two basic kinds of blocks.

  1. An object, which can be placed on the screen and printed.
  2. A hole, which will erase anything in its shape boundary.

Here we are going to use the right side to find a shape that we like. I went with a trapezoid. When you place a block on the workspace. A box should appear that allows you to manipulate the parameters of the shape.

Next we are going to want to duplicate the shape we just made ( search "how to duplicate object tinkercad" if you have trouble). Now lets select hole for this new shape and move it up a few mm. We can make the dimensions slightly smaller to make it the right kind of hole.

****Pro Tip****

Search how to use TinkerCAD alignment tool. It is very easy to use and understand, but more of its own tutorial.

By looking at the pictures and following the steps you should be looking at the basis of a planter! Great job, you could even add a hole in the bottom for water to drain, print it out, and put a plant in it! Or, you could follow the white rabbit and continue down a path that eventually leads to designing an advanced hydroponics system for NASA! That's the beauty of being alive at this time. Both are within your reach, but how much you build and far you go is entirely up to you!

Step 3: Adding the Pegs

This bent pipe shape that I found over here on the right hand side of the screen should be perfect. With a few modifications we can have this thing ready to hold our planter on the peg board. I used a Digital Caliper to get the proper measurement from my peg board. You should check your own to make sure, but in my case:

  • 3.5mm wide pegs should fit

(provide they fall in increments of)

  • ~26mm apart per hole

I also determined that they should have a small hook like bend about 5mm in and have an angle more then 90 degrees to make it easy to install/remove.

This will help keep the planter firmly *planted* on the peg board. Ha. Ha. Ha.

Step 4: Cleaning Up Some Edges

Things we buy and use often have a few soft edges to make them more appealing.

In TinkerCAD it is easy to add a nice edge wherever you need! By making a hole that we place on a 45 degree angle. We can easily add chamfer to the top and bottom edges.

***Remember to use the duplicate tool after you set the angle to save a mountain of time. All of these pieces are copies of the first hole I placed. Use the align tool to help you get things on the right track.

Step 5: Add Some Custimization!

I decided to use one of my favorite Chinese proverbs to go with the theme of doing and trying new things.

It roughly translates into:

The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. The second best time is today.

Often, we get caught up wishing we had started something that takes a long time... 20 years ago. But the truth is, you only really have two options;

You can sit in the sun and wish you had a planted a grand tree in the distant past, cursing yourself for not being able to tell the future. Or, you can realize that there is never a bad time plant a tree. You can plant it today, and in 20 years you may think back on that moment as you sit under the cool shade that came from this moment. But, even if you never enjoy the shade of the tree you plant. Odds are, someone will be thankful that you planted it along the way.

Step 6: Finishing Touches!

By selecting both the shapes and the holes of any given object, you have the ability to combine the objects so that they become to final shape. You will find that it is sometime beneficial to combine throughout the creation process. You can even make multiple combined objects in the same work space!

From here you can use TinkerCAD to make a .STL file and open it in your favorite slicing software.

  • A slicer is the kind of software that turns a 3d Model into the movements that a 3d Printer has to make to print the object. There are many different options and I suggest you read up and ask many questions

I will make a few more instuctables specifically for TinkerCAD. Don't forget to follow me post a comment. I think this stuff is great and I want to help encourage as many people as possible to start printing their dreams. Fell free to ask questions and I will try to get to them in a timely manner. Where you go from here is up to you. Will you plant a tree today, and enjoy the shade tomorrow?

Planter Challenge

Participated in the
Planter Challenge

Be the First to Share


    • Puzzles Speed Challenge

      Puzzles Speed Challenge
    • CNC Contest 2020

      CNC Contest 2020
    • Secret Compartment Challenge

      Secret Compartment Challenge

    6 Discussions


    2 years ago

    oooo. I wonder a lulz would hold up. Stuff's still a bit new to me. Hyde, have you ever tried the lulz? Or can you give me your take on this place? what's the type of material are you using for the pegs?



    Reply 2 years ago

    I will gladly help you out. Both the Taz 6 and the Mini are great printers, one of my clients has a Taz and it has proven very dependable.

    If you want a Mini however, Check out the Mini 2 first. It's on pre-order right now, it comes out in 5 days(Jan 20). Lulz really went all in on this one. It features several major improvements like - 20% more build(still less than the Taz though), a belt driven z-axis, and some seriously quite stepper motors.

    But you really want to ask yourself what you need in a printer. Dependability is important to us all, but it's VERY important in a commercial environment. If my home printer goes down, its a PITA but it is not a major deal. However, if my prototyping printer goes down at the wrong time. I could miss an important deadline, and that could easily cost me a valuable relationship depending on circumstances. If a client is depending on me to deliver on time and I don't, they will probably not use me in the future(and that could cost me many times the cost of any 3d Printer) Bottom line with Lulz, they are more expensive than other comparable printers BUT that difference in price allows for high quality parts; tight quality control, plenty of R&D, and consequently, reliability even in a commercial environment. If that's what you need or want, Lulz is a great option. If you are trying to spend less money and what me to provide insights on cheaper printers just let me know :)

    About the printer I used to make this: For this print, I used PLA and my fastest printer, hence the excessive z banding noticed in the pictures. Which, just so happens to be one of the cheapest i3 clones you can find and the first printer I bought. I must mention, If I were to factor in my time it is not so cheap. I spent a few hundred on printer+upgrades, but I spent a couple thousand dollars worth of time getting it to this point. For me it was worth it because I wanted to know everything about how 3d Printers work and this option required me to do a lot of research (I can't recommend this option unless I know someone well. It is defiantly not for everyone).

    As far as the blog you linked: I read through most of it and it seems to be a proper and accurate article. If you use that site often and want tohelp out the people that write the articles you read, use their link. They will earn a small commission and that helps people like us afford to spend more time on things like this. That really comes down to what people and businesses you want to support. Conversely, If you use one of the links I posted in the start of this reply, I would get a small commission. Do not feel any obligation to me, I love doing this regardless. I've worked hard over the years and I am comfortable. In my case, I have a deep passion for engineering and have been in the prototyping industry for a few years. However, I have spent most of my time making things that other people wanted and its gotten a little boring. So, a few weeks ago I decided to start building more of the things I want to make and sharing them on the web. I couldn't be happier about it! 3D printing feels brand new again, and I find myself in the lab happily pulling 12+ hour days. All in all I hope I was able to provide you with the answers you are looking for, feel free to ask me any question, any time, cheers :)


    2 years ago

    Hello Hyde,

    A very good starter project and I like your style for writing instructables. Hence I voted you and will do this project with the kids! Thanks!


    Reply 2 years ago

    Wow, thank you very much. I'm gla you enjoed it :)


    2 years ago

    What's your infill and layer height for printing? Did you have any issues with the pegs breaking off?


    Reply 2 years ago

    Infill: 35%. Higher infill increases part strength (how much force something takes until it breaks. But, after 50% the returns start to diminish (More filament, but less and less increased strength). Lower infill typically allows for more deflection ( how much something will bend before it breaks)

    layer height: .02 - Has an affect on part strength, but it is more a consequence of layer adhesion (many factors affect layer adhesion, stepper motors, lead screw specifications, print media and printing temperatures.

    Sidewall thickness: 1 - changing this can greatly affect characteristics of a printed part. Thick sides with less infill can increase strength whilst maintain flexibility. Generally speaking, increasing sidewall thickness will increase strength.

    However, in this case it may be more related to the angle of the bend. I do not feel any stress when I insert or remove the planter. The angle I used was 135D and the part slides right in. If you already broke off your pegs I suggest doing this:

    Open up tinkerCAD and make a pipe with a bend of 135 degrees. On one side of the bend have 5-7mm of pipe (this depends on your pegboard) and on the other side of the bend, have 5-10mm of pipe. Make sure to set the thickness all the way up to ensure it is a solid part. Print two of these little bendy pipes. Now, take the planter and sand/cut the broken pegs flush with the back of the planter. If you used ABS, add a drop or two of acetone to the new peg and place it on the planter, hold it there for a few moments and slightly "twist" back and forth. It will start to feel like it is becoming glued on. If you printed with PLA you can use MEK (You do not want to breath it in, care must be taken as it is a VOC). Some Pipe Cleaners contain MEK. Alternately, a strong glue should hold it.

    Further still, you could use a technique called Friction Welding to firmly adhere the pegs. Briefly, you would place a 20-30mm piece of the filament inside a Dremel. Turn it on to a relatively high speed(10k-20k) and basically "weld" the parts together in a similar fashion to using a MiG welder.

    Hope this helps you out :)