Hi all.

The Instructables by this time describes the construction of a dii very useful accessory.

ATTENTION: IMPORTANT MESSAGE:

Electricity is potentially dangerous. Don't do anything with it completely do not understand or do not have the slightest doubt about. Whatever you do, the result is your personal problem and you can't blame this instructable or its author. '

' This is including personal injury, financial loss and any type of damage, including but not limited to the fall of civilisation and the total destruction of the universe as we know it '.

I RECOMMEND TO ALWAYS UNPLUG THE MAINS SWITCH, AND, AFTER CHECKING THE ACTUAL POWER FAILURE MAKE CONNECTIONS.

in other words:

ATTENTION: ANYONE WHO TOUCHES THE WIRES COULD DIE!!!

(this phrase is not a threat but it is only by way of warning, of course)

It is a usb power adapter to charge your phone or tablet, which has the characteristic of being recessed wall.

There are on the market these kinds of built-in power supply for electrical installations civil, but their cost is quite high right now, perhaps due to a lack of market demand (in Italy cost about 12 euros); so I thought I'd build a "do-it-yourself", given my experience of electricity and electronics, using, though, a finished product already built and tested, from the outside, I found for the cost of 1 euro to market low-cost electronics, and back to suit collection.

I expected a switch that allowed the power shut-off when the Jack is not in use, both to decrease unnecessary consumption (I loathe seeing grid-connected power even when not connected users), and then to a "safety": it is useful, in case of any failure in the system, have the ability to pull all users to be able to locate the problem.

Step 1:

In the picture you can see the 220/5v USB adapter, which I used.

This is, from what I understand of switching type power supply, low-power, then consisting of a bridge rectifier, and a host of other components including a transformer and a transistor.

As housing of my PSU I used recessed space that was previously unused, and in support of, the "blind hole" correspondent

Step 2:

I traced this blind hole, the lines corresponding to the holes in the socket and breaker.

Then, with a jigsaw I cut the feeder cover and I extracted from its housing.

I kept the original box only the front which I have served for fixing Cyanoacrylate grip glue to the back of the blind hole, even with the help of copious amounts of hot glue on the sides and where it was possible.

Step 3:

In the figure you can see the blind hole already transformed for the purpose you accommodate the recessed usb port equipped with a safety switch.

Regarding the links are simple:

One end of the power supply, in my case the neutral I plugged directly into the adjacent socket neutral, the other end I plugged one end of the switch, the other end of the circuit breaker I connected to the next phase.

(all this, of course, I run in the absence of electrical voltage to avoid electrical shock)