V8-4" Vawt,savonius,vertical Axis,wind Turbine,ametek)





Introduction: V8-4" Vawt,savonius,vertical Axis,wind Turbine,ametek)

http://www.vawt.tk Guys Don't Get sick Of me, But After making the V8-3" I realized that the Vanes are not able to hold onto all the wind that comes near it, that was due to when i expanded the middel section it flattened the vanes in the middel, so i designed the V8-4" in a way that when i expand it, it retain the correct shape to stay efficent and able to use all the wind it can get. This design has the RPM and have more Blade area than the V8-3".

V8-4" is made from the follwing:

-8 x 4"x10' PVC pipe cut to shape as in rendering($11.89 each)(95.12 total)(vanes)
-2 x 3"X2" permanent caps (sewer pipes aisle)($2.99 each))($5.98 total)(brackets)
-1 X 6" bike axle from an old bike (free or few $)(top axle)
-1 X 5" long male/female adaptor (arbor) ($7.99)(bottom connection)
-1 X 12" hard plastic tricycle wheel (free)(center bracket assembly)
-24 X 1"x1/8" screws ($1.99)(screws)
-1 X Ametek dc motor ($60.00)(generator)
-frame made from 2x4 ($11.00)(frame)

Total of::: $182.08

My Goal Still is to generate 100 watts at 35km/h

So I hope you guys enjoy this one like the ones before it.



Step 1: Vanes

The Vanes are made from white 4" PVC cut to Cad Design.

I have cut the vanes to shape as designed in Cad. this design is much more effective in retaining the wind and producing rotation energy. trust me i tried many diffrent cuts and i wasted alot of money to come up with this one, so take my advise.

note: I rendered a drawing for you to see how to cut your vanes (PVC).

I hope I explained it correctly..

And A 1/8" hole is drilled at each side and it is 1" from side and 1" away from bottom.

Again you have to alternate the pvc pipes because of the flange end.

That is it.



Step 2: Mount Brackets

The mount brackets are 4"x2" permanent cap from hardware store.

I drilled a 1/8" hole around the circumfrance every 1.5" to give me 8 holes.

I also drilled out 1/4" center hole for the top axle and 1/2" hole for the bottom axle.

Make sure the side holes line up, otherwise you will have uneven height for the vanes and that will suck.



Step 3: Center Bracket Assembly

The center bracket gives you the extra blade area, the firmness and the Cigar shape.

I used a 12" bike rim. I simply screwed it in the center of the turbine, again make sure it is in the center other you will get a bad wobble.

Easy sh!t, there nothing else to say...lol



Step 4: Vane Assembly

make sure you messure things twice I have included a rendering that will describe the assembly action.

it will be triky to place the middle braket inside but take your time on this one, otherwise you may brake the vanes.



Step 5: In Action Movie

here is the first day up,

note the file is huge, at 59mb.
i Also uploaded a 30mb wmv to youtube.



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    68 Discussions

    Hi, can you give me more information about the vanes? did you make a straight cut? diameter at the end of the vanes?

    1 reply

    i cut the 3" pvs in half, so the centre is 3" accross, and tapered to the ends so the the ends messure 2.5"

    make sure you give my design the credit


    I love the vertical design, you can have several turbines in a limited space this way. Here's a couple of ideas to maximize your power generation though. Generators on both top and bottom. I looked over at sspence and his 1000 watt wind generator Instructable and think it could be adapted here on both ends, possibly even something set up around the middle where you have the reinforced structure. You could theoretically be pulling power from 3 locations on a single turbine with no added friction. Build five turbines and you've got 15 points of power generation! (as long as it's windy anyway.) If anyone can see something wrong with this idea let me know. It sounds too simple to truly work.

    5 replies

    nope that wont work when the turbine spins the generator the generator slows it down and converts that energy into electricity. 2 generators would just slow it down extra fast.

    I was recently told this by another practitioner of electric theory. I assume it's the resistance of electrons through the copper wire that create drag. Bloody stupid if you ask me. Electricity shouldn't behave like that, how dare physics make life difficult!

    I know why cant there just be one broken rule so that the energy input and output dont match and we can create unlimited energy. :(
    but if i remember right the electrons flowing through the wire create a magnetic field in the opposite direction just like dropping a magnet down a copper tube. If you havent done it look it up on youtube its pretty sweet.

    you can not break the rules but some times they can be bent slightly.it might be possible to play with the gearing set up to make the unit more efficiant,it may call for looseing some potential energy on the lower end when the winds are weak and having a greater gain on the high side.Now we could actually take this one step further and use a cvt trans mition fron a snomobile,or snow blower,or may be a lawn tractor.these are all automatic in functionthe faster they spin the faster the geni will as well.This might also have the benifit of acting as an extream retarder actually supplying some drag and keeping the turbine below terminal velosity

    thanks for your kind and motivating words, for this size turbine i do not think that more gens mean more watt, this turbine was calculated at 100 watt in 30 to 35 kmh wind. and one gen should produce this kind of power without and added gens. i hate to disagree with my fans but i think that this turbine does not have enough blade area to sustain any extra generators...thanks......

    On my savanious i used plywood in 1980 and flanged aluminum pipes cut in half. styrofoam might make good substitute or addition so the wood would be protected from rain and snow moisture wont effect foam and the foam could then be powder coated. keeping it sturdy yet light weight as possible and weather proof and in balance

    Savinous Wind Turbine.jpg1980.jpg
    1 reply

    replace the ceramic magnet with neodimium magnet on ametek 38vdc motor and you can get more high voltage output,

    my experience I get 67vdc at 2600 rpm (before replacing about 45vdc at the same rpm) . neodimium magnet size 1"x0.5"x0.25" and the I completed test this motor for wind turbine 12vdc @ 240 rpm.

    very cheap and  simple way to reduce rpm  ametek 38vdc motor for wind turbine.

    1 reply

    hi there guys, i have made a new wind turbine style and call it The "FAWT Silo" (fixed axis wind turbine Silo) maybe later i can do an instructable on it, but for now you can visit my site at www.wrapwind.com to see how i did it. regards

    Good idea. Spam every turbine project on instructables with a website that doesn't exist.

    1 reply

    lol...i spelled it wrong...thanks for noticing, i will fix it. regards

    Faroun, good effort and shows lots of inspiration. Nice design. Have you done any testing with measured wind speed and different blade designs. I assuming you have by adding more blades. I'm in the designing stage right now and see most manufactured units utilize wing shaped airfoils, very few blades and adjustable angle of attack of the blade. I having trouble finding any information about this technique, probably engineers protecting their unique designs so its up to me to do more research. I have decided to use a magnetic bearing to suspend the 100 lb. turbine and a 750 watt wheelchair motor/gearbox as the 24 volt generator. The motor/gearbox has a 20:1 ratio and is already water resistant. Thanks for all your pictures and work! Al

    4 replies

    Faroun, Simply amazing the work and results you are getting. I'll be looking forward to see the propeller you design for the FAWT. In your video you were concerned with the propeller being very close to the frame to minimize leakage. Centrifugal force and the downward bowing of the blades will make the leakage worse. You could use Wing-lets on the tips of your blades to arrest the outward movement of air and force the air to channel off the trailing edge of the blade. I remember seeing propellers with wing-lets for experimental aircraft that increase the blades efficiency just as wing-lets help wing attain more lift and less vortex drag. Also on your V18-4 the top tapered roller bearing was a good idea but still has a little friction. A suggestion is to use two 5 inch donut ceramic magnets to levitate the turbine weight completely, and are purchased from surpluscenter.com. I'll be glad to explain how their installed if you can't visualize it. The axial forces will be held by top and bottom self centering ball bearing pillow blocks from the same place. They already have zerk fittings for yearly greasing. That allows the bottom of the turbine shaft to attach to the generator close to the ground for easy maintenance. Al

    thanks Al, it has been fun creating and making things be. i did try the mag lift with rings but the dan things are expensive. i will be working on mounting the prop on the fawt this weekend, part of me is thinking that the fawt is too close to the ground, standing inside i felt that the wind is bouncing of the ground and back inside... it will be a nightmare to lift it...i have designed my own blades but i cant find a way to build them yet. they are curved upward 8" approx so 6 blades will sit in the fawt like a bowl facing the wind, so this way i trap the wind and the only way out is through the blades...anyway i am terible with my explanation i hope soon i can biuld one from fiber glass.. regrads