Wall Mounted Dream Desk

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About: Discover woodworking, concrete, LEDs, home decor and DIY projects you'll love.

Intro: Wall Mounted Dream Desk

This is the perfect dream desk for anyone looking to save space in a stylish fashion. This is a wall mounted with a few built-in items. Starting with the back panel this is mounted to the wall with the French cleat system and wrapped with RF LED strip controlled by a remote. To the left corner, there’s a drink holder. In the middle section of the desk, there is an integrated power outlet with two USB port. To the right of that, there’s a small desk grommet to pass wires through giving the desk a clean look. As a way to stay wire-free, there is a hidden wireless charger. The bottom is removable so if any electronics ever fail you can easily replace it. Last but not least the desk is designed as a two-part system to easily break down and transport.

GET THE PLANS HERE:https://gumroad.com/diycreators

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MATERIALS:

(1) Sheet of 3/4in plywood

(1) 8ft 1 by 3 Select Pine

(2) 6′ 1 by 2 Pine Board

Black Wood contact paper: https://amzn.to/2Qfj0Jm

Marble Contact Paper: https://amzn.to/2xWX5PC

Smoothing tool: https://amzn.to/2xYHW0b

Outlet: https://amzn.to/2xXTEZ8

Desk grommet: Click here

USB LED Strip: https://amzn.to/2Oj2Xgs

Wireless Charger: https://amzn.to/2DGcKZG

Wood Glue

(18) 1 1/4 Wood Screw

(5) 1/4 -T-nuts

(5) 2in 1/4 bolts

TOOL USED:

Edge track Circular Saw: Click Here

Drill and Driver: Click Here

Heat Gun: Click Here

Clamps: Click Here

Step 1: Getting Started

I began by cutting down a sheet of plywood. I ripped the plywood with a circular saw to a manageable size then made all the final cuts over at the table saw. You can find the plans " HERE "

Step 2: ​Attaching the Frame

With all the cutting being done. It’s time to start assembling. The frame was built first using wood glue and a nail gun. Next, attach the frame to the top of the desk. The overall frame needs to be the same size as the top for everything to line up. Now, attach all three of the trims. All of this can be glued and screwed for added strength.

Make a template:

To make it easy for the desk to line up with the back panel, I would suggest making a template. First, get a scrap piece of wood that matches the frame. Then, clamp that to the backside of the desk. You’ll need to drill out the pilot holes. I have one in each bay (5) total. After drilling through both the scrap wood and the frame set the template aside for now. I drill out a larger hole in the frame to fit the t-nut. I used a 1/4” t-nut for every hole drilled. Make the pilot holes in the frame big enough to fit the t-nuts. Then, install the t-nut within the frame facing out.

Step 3: Making the Back Panel

Let’s move our focus to the back panel. This part is quite simple. The back panel is a sheet of plywood with a frame attached to the back. To make the frame I mitered the joints to give a clean look, butt joints or even half lamp joints could be used here. After the frame is complete, attach it to the plywood and center it up.

Now, locate the piece of scrap wood template. Place the French cleat piece on the back panel as it would be installed. Place the scrap wood template below the top French cleat, as shown. Next, drill the pilot holes and then open them to fit the 1/4” bolts. Use a countersink bit to recess head of the bolt.

Next, line up the desk and back panel. Drill out a 1 1/4” hole to pass the power plug through the back panel. Make sure the hole is centered and not above or below the desk.

Step 4: Adding the Cabinet Outlet

Mark and cut out the plywood for the cabinet outlet. You can use an oscillating tool like such or use a jigsaw. Try to make this a tight fit.

Step 5: Making Room for the Drink Holder

Disregard the circle you see in the photo. I eyeballed it and it was a little off to the mark. The right way to go about this is to measure from the two sides and draw a line. Right where the lines intersect that’s where you drill. I measured 5 in. off both sides.

Use a hole saw or a jigsaw to cut out the hole.

The desk is 2.5in thick overall. I did a test fit and the bottom cover prevented the drink holder from sitting all the way down. To fix this I routed out that area to remove the needed material for the drink holder to not sit

Step 6: Wireless Charger

As I stated in the video. It’s best to route this section for the wireless charger prior to attaching the frame. It was a challenge but I did manage to work in the tight area. I had to remove a lot of material to get the wireless charging to work. By the time I got done, it was about a 1/4” of material left. My suggestion is to test this while you are still building make sure it works well.

The one I used in the video had a transformer that plugged into the outlet. I later swapped it for one with a USB port. This way I can have one available outlet.

Step 7: Sanding and Applying Vinyl Wrap

Before moving on I sanded everything. This includes the back panel, desk and the cover to the bottom of the desk. I sanded with 120grit, then 220 grit followed by 400 grit.

Working with contact paper was a new experience for me. So I did the best I could. I think it came out quite nice. For the back panel, I used a black contact paper. For the desk, I used a marble contact paper.

Laying out the paper was quite simple. Try lining it up the way you want it to be. Then, start from one end and layout the contact paper. Once you removed the backing paper and lay out the contact paper. Take a smoothing tool and push from the center out to the edge. Do this from one side to the other, doing this should push out any air bubbles.

The corners were the fun part. After trying various techniques I found that it worked out better if I just cut a triangle at each corner. For the corners, I wrapped and overlapped as shown in the photo.

Step 8: Painting

I drilled out 6 mounting holes bottom cover. I then countersink the holes so the screw heads can sit flushed.

Then, I painted the bottom cover and the back of the panel black.

Step 9: Add LED Strip

The LED on the back panel needs to come out the top of the desk and into the outlet USB port. I drilled out a hole near the outlet for a desk grommet. At this point, the grommet can be installed along with the outlet

The LED strip I’m using is USB powered, that being said there are some limitations. The biggest drawback is these come in a fixed length. So instead of wrapping the entire panel, it stopped at the bottom near the ends. The USB powered ones are quite simple to use. They are 5 volts and the power harness has a tiny controller built-in so it very convenient. The main reason for this one is its USB and this will eliminate the need for the power block.

Step 10: Attach the Desk to the Back Panel

I attached the French cleat to the back panel. Make sure the direction of the mitered edged is in the right position (as shown).

Right below the hole for the power cord to pass through, remove some of the material. This will allow the French cleat system to sit flat and not pinch the wires.

Finally, attach the back panel to the desk using the ¼’’ bolts.

Step 11: Mounting the Desk

Drill a couple of holes in the frame to pass the power cable from the grommet hole to the wireless charger.

I added a couple of brackets in the corner of the frame for added strength.

Step 12: The End

There is a lot to appreciate about this desk. Not only is it cool but its fun. I think it’s perfect for teens or anyone looking for a place to get some work done in style.

All there is left to do is plug it, and enjoy. Add some awesome artwork to your wall from Displate. They make all sorts of art on thin metal and mounted with a magnet. I like this concept, it's a neat way to add style or a cool gift to someone. Check them out here https://displate.com/?art=5b8c83f5e0050If you find something use Promo code DIY20 for 20% off everything.

GET THE PLANS HERE: https://gumroad.com/diycretors
Furniture Contest 2018

This is an entry in the
Furniture Contest 2018

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    11 Discussions

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    SheilaC64

    Question 9 days ago on Step 12

    If a force comes up from beneath the desk, I imagine that the whole thing can lift off of the french cleat. Did I miss a step where you applied a screw or two to prevent this from happening? or is it all so heavy that this is an unreasonable concern? Great job on the video.

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    DruidBenjamin

    11 days ago

    This is one very fine instructable and Kudos! to your camera person. The steps are well thought out and clearly presented even to the possible problems encountered. The build documentation was exceptionally well shot for lighting and clarity of subject being described. All in all a really great and practical project. I intend to put one in my next appartment.

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    SavasB1

    13 days ago

    Wooov! excellent! great workmanship. congratulations

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    charlessenf-gm

    13 days ago

    Wow, Peel and Stick contact paper! You did an excellent job with it! You have a future in furniture design!

    If you look at where you added the French Cleat to the (whatever do you call the black portion?) you might consider incorporating the cleat into the frame of that 'black portion.' By raising the position of that part of the cleat, you would raise the hanging point a couple of inches.

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    GugaC

    16 days ago

    Awesome work... I simply love this kind of desk... I'll for sure build this!

    1 reply
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    charlessenf-gmGugaC

    Reply 13 days ago

    If you do decide to build a similar hanging desk, lighten the load! The desk is basically a Torsion Box and, as such, doesn't need all that 3/4" material. If you go down to the home store and look at (lift up, etc.) a hollow core door slab you will find it extremely sturdy because the 'skins' are supported by a lattice work inside. Sometimes this lattice is made of cardboard!

    If you look up Torsion Box Construction and adapt the principles therein to this project, you will have a sturdy desk that weighs a fraction of something built out of heavy plywood or MDF.

    As the desk itself is lighter, the desk then becomes capable of carrying that much greater load - if you make it twenty pounds lighter, you can use it for a desktop computer and still put less strain on the French Cleat.

    By the way, the French Cleat need not be a single continuous strip. One could create the same holding power/strength if a four foot long Cleat were divided into two or three sections - which might better accommodate the wiring.

    Of course, it is easier to route the wiring to an exit point away from (and below) the cleat in the first place.

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    sagarbhalla

    16 days ago

    Great job buddy, I liked it especially your hidden wireless mobile charger.

    Keep it up..

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    chronocide67

    16 days ago

    Great project. Learned a few things and got some ideas.

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    pixel tamer

    16 days ago

    Great looking desk. I agree that it should have additional support. Also I would have put the drink cup holder to the back near the wall and recover some valuable desk top flat space. I would never have believed that the vinyl could be salvaged as well as you accomplished with a little heat.

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    KimE59

    17 days ago

    Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. With my luck, someone's going to come over to my house and sit on the desk and break it.