Weber BBQ Table




If your just not happy with a basic Weber or Performer and have a few weekends and couple $$ to spare, come along for a fun ride with wood, metal, tile & brick.

Step 1: Treat the Wood and Assemble the Frame

Before doing anything, I sat down on a sunny Saturday morning and stained all my wood. Waited a good 3-4 days then applied a nice coat of Thompson's Water Seal.

Determining the size of the cook top space will define the frame size. I'm using a full sized 22.5" Weber kettle and needed to keep 4" of clearance and wanted 22" of prep space so the overall cook top dimensions ended up being 48" x 30"

I used 48" (R) & 30" (F) 4"x4" smooth redwood for the uprights and lower ties, 30" (sides) and 48' (F/R) 30" 4"x6" smooth redwood for the top frame & 56" 1"x6" rough redwood for the bottom slats. All help together with 6" x 3/8" lag bolts & washers countersunk 1/2" with a 1.25" wood bit.

Starting with the rear uprights drill pilot holes and begin to assemble the lower side supports, then attach the 1" x 6" slats with 3" wood screws to make the lower base stable enough to stand upright. The upper ties might require help from somebody to hold into place while you drill the pilot holes and screw in the lag bolts. Or use your knee and some angle braces like I did and prepare to be very tired.

Step 2: Build Internal Frame

Since I will be using mosaic tile for the surface I needed to build a frame for the 1/2" plywood and 1/2" Hardi backer tile board. Knowing that the tile is 1/4" I recessed the internal frame (2"x4" plywood) 1.25" below the top of the frame. Using 3" deck screws secure the frame to the table. Remember, keep it LEVEL!

Step 3: Plywood Sub Surface & Heat Shield

Remember, HEAT is woods worst enemy. The cutout in the 1/2" ply is 3.5" larger in diameter than the hole we will cut for the Weber to give it some "breathing room.". Secure into the sub frame with 1" wood screws. Using an 8"x6' roll of 22 ga. aluminum flashing secure it to the inside of the cutout with 1" wood screws, pre-punched into the flashing. Yeah, the flashing I bought was stainless on one side & copper on the other!

Note: If the plywood doesn't fit exactly use a plane or sandpaper to shave down the high spots, then gently tap into the frame using a hammer and piece of wood.

Step 4: Cut the Hardi Backer Tile Board

I wish I had a better picture of the Hardi Backer cut and installation, this pic is is a post install, pre-handle cut trial run of the BBQ with some nice Chimmichuri marinated Flank Steak.

Most important thing to remember, Hardi Backer doesn't like to be cut on a smooth round edge. I could have used a router but opted for my jigsaw equipped with a rough tooth blade. Drill a large enough pilot hole to fit the blade into and start to cut. Expect to burn through two blades and wear breathing protection, concrete dust sucks. Because this cut must be PRECISELY the size of the Weber kettle, measure 5X, cut once and V E R R Y S L O W L Y... It's better to be a bit on the small or snug size than make the cut too I did. But there's a fix for that. Secure onto the wood sub frame & plywood deck with 1" wood screws.

Note: If the section of Hardi backer is too large you can either use a course file, router or metal sanding bit on a drill to shave it down in order to fit into the frame. Gently tap it with a hammer and piece of wood to nudge it into place.

Step 5: Tile & Brick

Time to switch trades and do some tile work. As much as I would have loved to have gone down to my local kitchen & bath store and had them build a nice one piece granite slab table top it was going to be $250-350+ more than tile. That and I like doing tile work.

To keep things clean I used a thin 1/4" trim piece around the entire table. Using both tile cement on the bottom and wood glue on their sides facing the wood. This just made for cleaner grout work in the tile and wood contact area. Lay the tile out over the prep area and cut the tile sheets to make a clean fit. Then arrange the tile sheets around the cutout and cut the tiles to approximate the closest fit to the circle. This is the really tricky part, doing the trim around the kettle but by using tile nippers you can trim/cut the tiles to almost create a perfect circle. A little grinding with a Dremel will finish it off. After that a combination of smoothing tile cement and then grout with your fingers around the inside will create that perfectly smooth fit. Grout & seal.

For the black brick backsplash (say that three times fast) measure length of the rear desk and divide by your brick length. I needed to cut a pair of bricks in half to make the fit, a quick way to cut bricks is to set them on a soft surface (rubber mat, towel, etc.) score the brick several times with a large screwdriver and with a series of firm, steady hammer blows begin to chisel all the way down the score until the brick breaks. Spray paint to your desired color. I used a tube of concrete advesive between the bricks and BBQ deck to secure them together.

Step 6: Kettle Handle Cutting, Insulation & Trim Ring Support

Now it's time to void the Weber warranty. pretty simple, use a Dremel or hacksaw and cut off the handles. You will also need to remove the legs as well.

Because the lip of the Weber kettle will now be almost flush with the table top we need to raise it enough so that the lid will fit snugly. Remember how I said earlier measure 5X, cut cut was 1/16" too large. I would have used a section of 1/4" copper tubing secured to the kettle to raise it enough but needed to use 3/8" to properly seal the enclosure as well as elevate the kettle. I flattened the ends of copper, pre-drilled a pair of holes in the kettle and tubing & secured it to the rear of the kettle with a pair of small metal screws. Drill a series of small holes every 6" or so into the copper tubing to allow any excess heat to escape.

To further insulate the kettles heat from the rest of the table I put a double wrap of auto exhaust tape (available at most auto parts stores) around the top of the kettle and tucked them into the copper tubing to secure.

Step 7: Lid & Towell Rack & Finishing Touches

Most newer Webers come with a nice little hook inside the lid which is meant to hang on the side of the kettle. I needed to recreate this and quickly realized that most every towel rack, toilet paper holder, etc. are only 3" deep and to make this work you'll need a minimum of 4.5" It just so happened that I had a pair of 6" "L" brackets, some spare 1/4" smooth steel rod and some compression caps in my garage. A pair of leftover 3/8" lag bolts & washers secured it to the sides. Otherwise, feel free to improvise!

From here it's all personal taste. I firmly believe that every BBQ requires utensils needed for a proper cookout. Also BBQing makes you thirsty, so a properly placed bottle opener and cap-catcher/utility pail is key. And come to think of it..who likes silver/stainless steel? I don't. So I painted anything that isn't wood, tile or a BBQ black. Finally, the cheap stainless steel BBQ grate that Weber gives you, just doesn't quite cut it for something like this. Google "cast iron Weber grate", or just check these guys out,, give them your credit card and install something of substance!

Step 8: All Because of This...

Three years ago I saw THIS on the internet. It seemed cool but I had a nice gas BBQ at the time, and who wanted to go through all that work just for a nice grilled steak?

So I took some liberties with the accessories, color scheme and black bricks. In any case the whole project took three full weekends with a few spare hours here & there and the cost breakdown is something like this.

Weber BBQ - $165

All wood & cement board - $205

Tile supplies, tools & accessories - $225

Bricks - $FREE!!!

Miscellaneous parts, tools etc. - $175

TOTAL - $770

Step 9: Tools & Materials You Will Need

Table saw
Jig saw

Hack saw (or Dremel, if you have one)

Circular saw
Cordless drill/screwdriver

Socket wrench set

Assorted clamps, vice, etc.
Short & long level
Measuring tape
Wood stain/sealer & brushes
Utility knife
3/8" tile spade

Tile Nippers

Grout trowl & sponges



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    12 Discussions


    6 weeks ago

    What do you use to protect your grill from the elements? The standard Weber cover seems like it would be too big.


    5 months ago

    The pièce de résistance has got to be the bucket to catch the beer caps...


    Question 7 months ago on Step 5

    Awesome project, I've been inspired!

    The are where this masterpiece will sit has direct exposure to rain/snow. How did you waterproof/weatherproof the mosaic tiles?

    1 answer

    Answer 7 months ago

    Since this is Northern California I'm not overly concerned with extreme weatherproofing. The tile & grout are essentially bathroom/shower ready, I did use a good quantity of grout sealer and particularly paid attention to the tile & wood contact areas. All the wood was prepped with both Thompson's water sealant then everything was stained/sealed with Cabot Australian Timber Oil (Mahogany Flame) When we do actually get rain there's an 8' x 8' tarp that covers it.


    2 years ago

    Nice job man, I'm considering doing something like that.

    One question though, how's the heat shield doing? For my project I need to take in consideration that I'll add the Pizza Kettle on my BBQ so temperatures can reach 400 celsius. Do you think the shield would be able to handle that amount of heat?

    2 replies

    Reply 2 years ago

    The simple answer, it probably wouldn't be able to handle that much heat. The heat shield is really just protecting the wood framing and to a certain extent the 1/2" plywood. I left a 3.5" gap between the plywood cutout and the 1/2" hardibacker and tile cutout that is taking the full exposure of the kettle's heat. The combination of the exhaust wrapping and the 3/8" copper tube (that both raises the kettle for the lid to properly fit & also bleeds off some heat) and the concrete board/tile surface make heat an almost non-issue.

    I recently saw some guy on Pinterest that used a solid slab of granite over 1/2" concrete board and was saying he had almost NO heat transfer. Could always use pressure treated wood fore the internal framing if it's really a concern. If $$ was no issue I would have done the same.

    Hope this helps!


    Reply 2 years ago

    Thanks for replying.

    The kettle has 22" and I'm planning on making the hole somewhere around 27" to allow more ventilation. I noticed that yours looks pretty tight in there, any reasons for that?

    I was thinking about leaving it open so the air can circulate, is that a bad idea? I haven't decided yet what to do with the surface, but I'm not very keen on doing tiles. I was thinking about doing some layers of concrete over the plywood but I'm not sure what wood happen with all the heat.

    I'm also considering raising the kettle even more so the heat coming from inside doesn't even go under the table, maybe 2-3 inches. Found this guy's solution very interesting

    Last thing, what did you do with the insulating wrap? Couldn't see it in the pictures.


    2 years ago

    This is inspirational and my next project. Thanks


    2 years ago

    thanks for the write-up my wife wants something similar for the green egg. I'll post when I get to that project


    2 years ago

    Very well done (the grill, not the steak)!!!


    2 years ago

    This looks like a fantastic set-up. I need something like this :)

    I'm feeling inspired, thank you for sharing!