Introduction: Work Bench Router Table

About: Ever find yourself walking through a store and see something you like and say to yourself; "I could make that" then you think "I could improve the design to fit my needs better, and make it chea…

Ever wanted a Router Table, but didn't want to invest hundreds of dollars into something you would only end up using a few times?

Me neither... So i decided to build my own.

I kept it cheap and simple as I do not need to use this all of the time, but know it will make some future projects much easier.

Follow along as I show you how to construct this simple low cost Router Table.

Materials:

  1. 3/4" Plywood (2'x2')
  2. 1/8" Tempered Hardboard (2'x2')
  3. 1x4 Pine Boards
  4. Wood Glue
  5. Three Machine Screws
  6. Two Machine Bolt (and two nuts)
  7. Four Washers
  8. Plunge Router (assuming you have this already)
  9. Adjustable Work Bench (or something similar you might have)

Step 1: Table Base

For the Table Base, I started with an adjustable work bench that I got for free from a friend that was no longer using it.
(You could use any kind of surface or make a simple surface with a slot for the Router to drop through)

I checked to make sure the Plunge-Router I already had would fit through the slot of the work bench and although the base of the Router did, the head of the Router did not.

I solved this problem with the use of thicker plywood for the main table support (as you will see later)

Step 2: Router Table Structure

For the surface of the Router Table, I used 3/4" Plywood and 1/8" Tempered Hardboard (Masonite) on top.

I cut the Plywood into a 2'-0"x2'-0" piece then used a straight-edge to mark the center (from corner to corner).

Once I had the center, I placed the Router on top of the plywood and made the bit that was installed line up with the "X" so it was in the middle.

I then traced the outline of the 'head' of the Router onto the Plywood and used a Jig-Saw to cut out the shape (as you can see in the 2nd picture).

I had to do a bit of sanding to make sure the Router head would 'sink' into the plywood as intended.

Once I had the Plywood finished, I cut a piece of 1/8" Tempered Hardboard into a 2'-0"x2'-0" piece (same as the Plywood).

I then glued these two pieces together so they were one unit.

Step 3: Mounting the Router

To mount the router to the Table, I took the Router to the Hardware store and found out what sized screws fit the thread pattern of the holes in the head of the Router.

I then placed the table upside down, placed the Router in it's position within the hole in the Plywood and marked the holes that I needed to drill.

I drilled a pilot hole at the center of each mark that was the same diameter as the screws I was using.
Once I verified that the holes were exactly where I wanted them I used a larger bit to make a 'counter-sink' void for the head of the screw to sink into.

I was then able to screw all three into the router and it held tight to the underside of the router table when flipped over.

Step 4: Router Hole

The next step to place the router hole was easy.

I measured the largest router bit I had, and then used a hole saw bit to cut a hole just slightly larger than the bit for some clearance.

Once the hole was cut I beveled the edges of the hole on the top side to make sure that as i slid items along the table nothing would get caught on the edge.

Step 5: Table Mounting Hole

To help mount the table to the Work Bench (as well as hold the Router-Fence in place) I decided to use the holes that were already in place on the Work Bench.

I flipped everything over (with the Router in place) and marked where the desired hole was on the underside of the Plywood.

I then drilled a 1/2" hole at each location as I was using 3/8" bolts and wanted them to pass through fairly easily.

Step 6: Router Fence

For the Router Fence, I used some old boards I had laying around, but you can use whatever you have handy.

(I used 1x4 pine boards)

I cut one board so it was 2'-0" long (the same as the table) and then marked where the Mounting Hole came through the Table.

Once I had the location of where I needed to place the hole I used the Washers I was going to use to mark the extent of the Adjustable Slot I needed.

I then drilled a 1/2" hole at each end and used a Jig Saw to connect the two holes to achieve the slot in the board.

I then used the same Hole Saw to add a notch in the bottom and fence edge boards to make sure that the Router Head could spin.

I glued the Router Fence Board to the base and let it sit overnight.

Step 7: Vacum Hose Connection

I wanted to b able to connect a vacuum hose to the back of the router to suck up all of the shavings and sawdust when it was in use, so I created a simple three piece Vacuum Hose Connection.

I cut two triangles for the sides, and then a top which I mitered to fit snug against the base and router fence.

Next I measured the diameter of the end of my hose and used a hole saw to cut a hole that would fit snug.

Once it was all glued together, I aligned the hole of the Vacuum connection with the hole for the Router Bit so the hose would be close enough to suck up all of the debris.

Step 8: Finished Assembly

Once the Vacuum Hose Connection was attached to the Router Fence, I connected everything together for a fit-test.

Everything fit wonderfully together.

I used the 3/8" bolts with a large washer at each end to help secure the Router Fence to the Work Bench. I then added a clamp at each side that sandwich the Router Fence, Router Table, and Work Bench together.

The hose connects well and does not get in the way at all.

Thoughts:

  1. I might paint the back side of the Router Fence to make it look a little nicer.
  2. I might need to add some weights to the bottom Legs of the Work Bench as it is a bit top-heavy now.