Continue a Failed 3d Print

41,774

204

22

This is how i resume my prints that don't make it all the way. this instructable only works if :
A: the print has failed cleanly meaning still stuck on print bed and no spaghetti monster.
B: your printer has not skipped steps*
C: you have the g-code (you don't want to re-slice.

* you can fix skipped steps in x and y if you don't have autobed leveling. and you can fix z if you home up (some mendel 90 and Delta printers)

Step 1: Stay Clear!

move your nozzle clear of the print. get it some z height to to make sure you not ramming your print of the bed.
remove any blobs that may mess up your print at resume.

Step 2: Fix You Extruder

if your extruder is clogged fix it now. keep a piece of paper under to protect you print. Note: move your axels before working on the extruder this will engage the motors holding it in place. yes it is possible to re home your x and y but if you can restart without loosing steps why not?

Step 3: Find Z Height

carefully find the height your print failed at. Do this the same way you level your bed= feeling it, I use a paper. try to find a good flat spot to do this on. Note that the layer may not be completed, measure the highest layer.

use a M114 and note down your z. mine is 122.10

Step 4: Fix G Code

find the g code you where printing (you dont want to re-slice). make a copy and open in a text editor.
use crl+f to find the layer your print failed on (crl+f= z122).
in step 3 i found my z to be 122.1 in my g code one layer had z 121.9 and the next one 122.4
you want to delete all text before the row that say "NEW LAYER" follow by (in my case) 122.4

then save your file.

Step 5: Upload G Code

upload your new file and start heating up your printer!

Step 6: Prime Your Extruder

prime it. but remember to do a M92 E0 after or your extruder will retract at print start. If you need to zero your x and y now.

Step 7: Hit Print!

Do a little dance and hit print!

Step 8: Enjoy

If all went well your print will make it this time.
Now post a picture of your failed and resumed print in the comments :)

Step 9:

4 People Made This Project!

Recommendations

  • Comfort Food Challenge

    Comfort Food Challenge
  • Cardboard Challenge

    Cardboard Challenge
  • Toys Contest

    Toys Contest

22 Discussions

0
None
tristanelliott

10 days ago

I got the extruder lined up and used M114 but all axis points show 0. Is there a thing else I can do?

0
None
NathanH194

Question 4 weeks ago

So I got the gcode remade and the extruder moves to the correct place. But once it gets to where it needs to be it just starts extruding like crazy, super fast and just builds up a big blob of filament. It never moves in x and y while it's doing that, just extrudes a crazy amount crazy fast. Any ideas why?

here's an image of what my gcode looks like from the beginning of it currently after editing it:

https://puu.sh/CkPP7/452ef07aa0.png

0
None
fr2632

8 months ago

You saved me, thank you sooo much!!!!

0
None
Minus1x

2 years ago

Thanks for the tips. Saved my print last night. Just to add: I had to add a g92 Z30.150 (z hight for my next layer) to the start of the modified gcode. Smoothieware was trying to zero all axis before the print.

2 replies
0
None
ZinFabMinus1x

Reply 1 year ago

Hi could you expand in this a bit more, I have auto level so am looking for info on being able to continue the print but need to bypass the auto level process and ensure the XYZ positions are correct if that makes any sense?

0
None
WesleyC25ZinFab

Reply 1 year ago

The auto-leveling is usually done through a "G28 Z0" command. Simply remove that line from the G-Code file (it should be near the top) to stop the z-axis from auto-leveling.

Also, many printers default to a z-position of 0 when you turn them on. Once you have found the Z-axis height that your printer head is at, run "G92 Z__" (replace the blank with the z-axis height in mm).

0
None
QJ Neo

1 year ago

This really help a lot! But I found there is hard to delete many g-code lines in a short time.

Here's my way to delete a lot of line:
-copy entire g-code to Microsoft Word

-find the layer you want and select the line above it

-zoom out the page by maximum

-you can now select all lines above it in a short time

-paste back into the notepad

1 reply
0
None
SteveO96QJ Neo

Reply 1 year ago

Hey you just need some hotkeys knowledge of windows *gg*

HOLD : shift + strg + home (will mark from the cursor to the top of the file)

0
None
terryb58

1 year ago

After 3 failed prints my 4th one failed 80 percent into the print. You saved me a lot of time and filament! Thank you!

0
None
9Harry99

2 years ago

Thank you man, very helpful !

0
None
litejk01

2 years ago

Thanks!
This saved Many hours of print + filament!!

0
None
RickG5

2 years ago

Love you.

0
None
KevinK192

2 years ago

A lot easier than I thought! worked like a charm. used text edit and saved .gcode and uploaded with repetier host!

thank you so much!

0
None
JeffreyJ24

2 years ago

There is a tool for modifying the gcode to do this if you are comfortable with command line utilities

http://github.com/jensenj08/gcode

0
None
nakcamCJ21

Reply 3 years ago

Its a mendel90.

0
None
jduanewelch

3 years ago on Introduction

Thank you for the detailed walk through. I must say I have successfully pulled this off though testing and was still missing some steps. having the steps writen out in a clear mannor will defenatly lead to sucess more often then not...Good work!

1 reply
0
None
OliverS4

3 years ago on Introduction

Your article encouraged be to try and save an aborted print. I woke up to the printer stuck, hotend still on, not really knowing hat had happened. I worked through the G-code, fixed everything, got the right layer, resumed and it stopped again in the same position. Turned out the G-Code file was corrupted at that point- so I recovered the original one, cut out the previous layers again and restarted the job. It's looking really promising so far - other than a little too much material in 3 of 8 parts in the effected layer.